AU-X1
- Thread starter Willy6
- Start date
Yes negative side is marked with black.step by step pics when Im done.I'm still waiting for some wire though.Well...I'll be danged.
I suppose the tinning was to ward off the copper going green?
Nice shot of those rails btw.
Since you are the first one to show a filter cap replacement for the X1, could you show us (or just tell us) if the old filter caps have a mark for which lug is the negative lug?
A loose demo of which rail goes with which lug would be a very appreciated addition to the X1 restoration library too.
New info.
Interesting stuff.
Ron here are some of the pics you asked for starting with the bank of caps and how the negative and positive terminals are situated.
negative is marked black as the 4 arrows show. I also noticed that the writing on the side of the caps is on the same side as the negative terminal.
negative is marked black as the 4 arrows show. I also noticed that the writing on the side of the caps is on the same side as the negative terminal.
Ronito6
Super Member
Nice work.
That is a very clean removal of those rails.
What soldering iron do you use? Any special technique or solder tip?
Those rails shunt away a lot of heat from the soldering iron, so it can be tough to concentrate enough heat on the solder points to properly remove or add solder.
That is a very clean removal of those rails.
What soldering iron do you use? Any special technique or solder tip?
Those rails shunt away a lot of heat from the soldering iron, so it can be tough to concentrate enough heat on the solder points to properly remove or add solder.
i stuffed one cap today. First of all with the clamp in the original position i took a measurement from the bottom of the cap to the center of the clamp then i put the clamp on upside down and used it as a guide to cut the black wrap then i opened up the can and pulled the guts out.
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I use one of these things it's worth its weight in gold.I just heat it up enough to get a screw driver under the bent over lug and then straighten it up with a pair of pliers then stick the screw driver under the rail and pry up while heating and sucking the solder
Not all of the pics were in the right
order but here is the finished cap.
Ronito6
Super Member
You are going good there.
I hope the tops of those bolts are well insulated though...to minimize the the possibility of of something shorting out or arching.
Finally, please make sure you use rubber gloves when you gut those caps. The chemicals in those things are really toxic.
I hope the tops of those bolts are well insulated though...to minimize the the possibility of of something shorting out or arching.
Finally, please make sure you use rubber gloves when you gut those caps. The chemicals in those things are really toxic.
Yes I put silicone on the bolt heads like Kale does and I use gloves.
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Ronito6
Super Member
I never thought of it I guess I'll study up on the reason why and how to do it.Any thought to adding bypass films to those main caps?
Easily removed later after critical listening once broken in, many like this mod
There are many many posts about this simple mod, however I bookmarked this one from a few years back, thanks EW as always.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/filter-caps-bypassed.336048/
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/filter-caps-bypassed.336048/
Are you talking about those ?
Should I put new ones in there or re use those ones?they test good..
And you were suggesting adding more right?If I add more should I go bigger or smaller?The main caps are 10,000uf each and those bypass caps say 105k on them.
