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Best cartridges for Rek-O-Kut S-320 tonearm?

Any other recommendations besides a Mexican made Shure M35x?

Bought a new Shure M35x on Amazon. Below is a picture of what I received today. Needle is angled to one side. Very poor quality control. I will send this back for a refund and look for a non-Shure cartridge. I don't want to have to keep ordering multiple M35x units to try to find one without a screwed up stylus. It's not worth the aggravation.

m35xqc.jpg
 
Here's a better angle that illustrates the Shure quality control manager must have been taking a siesta. I'm thinking I might get a Japanese cartridge instead. I'm done with Shure.

m35xquality.jpg
 
When I bought mine, I asked for the specs. Here you go...

N-44-7X [e007450]
Tip: conical 0.6 mil
Bonded diamond tip
Tracking force: 1.5-3g
Output voltage: 3mV
Channel balance: 1.5 dB
Compliance @100 Hz: 14 x 10^-6 cm/dyne (lateral)
14 x 10^-6 cm/dyne (vertical)
Frequency range: 20-20,000 Hz

Unlike the original N44-7X (and N35X) the JICO variant has a .6 mil conical stylus. The originals have a .7 mil conical tips. I prefer the .6 mil, it seems to produce better high frequencies.
 
malden said:
When I bought mine, I asked for the specs. Here you go...

N-44-7X [e007450]
Tip: conical 0.6 mil
Bonded diamond tip
Tracking force: 1.5-3g
Output voltage: 3mV
Channel balance: 1.5 dB
Compliance @100 Hz: 14 x 10^-6 cm/dyne (lateral)
14 x 10^-6 cm/dyne (vertical)
Frequency range: 20-20,000 Hz

Unlike the original N44-7X (and N35X) the JICO variant has a .6 mil conical stylus. The originals have a .7 mil conical tips. I prefer the .6 mil, it seems to produce better high frequencies.
Click to expand...

Thanks - it looks like the Jico N44-7X stylus is 3mV less in output. I believe the N35X is 6mV.
 
How satisfying would a vintage made in USA Shure M3D cartridge with an aftermarket Jico stylus be in the REK S-320? Are the Jico styli made to the same specs as the original made in USA Shure?
 
The JICO replacement styli for the Shure M3D are just as good if not better than the originals. If you can find a NOS Shure, it will cost several times that of a new JICO and the original may have a suspension that has somewhat hardened.
 
I ordered a new M35X cart and stylus. They arrived today and both needles are centered -- not bent! Success!

For folks that have an S-320, I need your help. Before I can install the cart, I need to solder headshell leads to an empty REK headshell. But I can't find anything online about the pin configuration (what is left channel, right channel and ground etc). Unclear if the old 1960s REK headshells used a standard modern day pin config or something non-standard.

If I'm looking at the PS-20 REK headshell upside down facing the front what is the pin configuration for each of the pins below?

Upside down headshell (observer vantage point -- facing front of upside down headshell):

Upper left pin position = ?
Upper right pin position = ?
Lower left pin position = ?
Lower right pin position = ?
 
Last edited:
Joe Roberts said:
I have had many Rekokut arms and when they are in good shape they are "OK"...however, most are messed up. Grasp by the arm tube and twist. Is there any wiggle at the vertical bearings? There shouldn't be. If there is movement, the arm needs attention.
Click to expand...

If I twist the tube there is a bit of wiggle. How can this be remedied? Is there a way to adjust?
 
Told ya! Try tightening the small slot head screws very slightly. Really, easy does it. Tiny steps. If the chatter seems very slight, so will be the adjustment needed to remove the slack.

It is a thin line between properly tight and too tight. There should be no binding whatsoever.

Most RoK arms have chatter at the vertical bearing at this date, but most can be remedied unless the balls or point on the other end of that screw are worn.

I'm wondering if that screw might have a tendency to work itself loose. Might be a reasonable idea to dab a tiny speck of Loctite on the screw once proper adjustment is achieved but I never did it.
 
Joe Roberts said:
Told ya! Try tightening the small slot head screws very slightly. Really, easy does it. Tiny steps. If the chatter seems very slight, so will be the adjustment needed to remove the slack.

It is a thin line between properly tight and too tight. There should be no binding whatsoever.

Most RoK arms have chatter at the vertical bearing at this date, but most can be remedied unless the balls or point on the other end of that screw are worn.

I'm wondering if that screw might have a tendency to work itself loose. Might be a reasonable idea to dab a tiny speck of Loctite on the screw once proper adjustment is achieved but I never did it.
Click to expand...

Hi Joe,

Please see below picture of my arm. Is the red arrow the specific screw you are referring to? Are there any other adjustment screws you were referring to or is this the only one?

Also, I think you are right about adjustments loosening over time. Since my arm is new old stock (never used) it doesn't have any wear on the bearings. So worn bearings can't be the issue here.

rekarmadjust.jpg
 
Yeah, that's it. One on each side.

The last time I fixed one of these, I was able to determine which side was loose by judicious wiggling of the arm tube. One side seemed to exhibit more vertical play than the other, and I found that while holding the bearing housing steady the same side seemed to have more side to side play than the other, so i slightly nudged the screw on that side---like 1/20th of a turn-- and it was fine after that.

Observe, think, and move carefully. This arm is not fragile but the geometries we're dealing with are very-fine graded.

Many, I dare say MOST, RoK arms are loose in this fashion to some degree.
 
Joe Roberts said:
Yeah, that's it. One on each side.

The last time I fixed one of these, I was able to determine which side was loose by judicious wiggling of the arm tube. One side seemed to exhibit more vertical play than the other, and I found that while holding the bearing housing steady the same side seemed to have more side to side play than the other, so i slightly nudged the screw on that side---like 1/20th of a turn-- and it was fine after that.

Observe, think, and move carefully. This arm is not fragile but the geometries we're dealing with are very-fine graded.

Many, I dare say MOST, RoK arms are loose in this fashion to some degree.
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe. In my picture with the red arrow showing the left side of the tonearm gimbal, it looks like there are actually "two screws in one." Do I adjust the inner screw or outer screw on each side?

rekarmadjust.jpg
 
Center screw. Slight nudge.

I just fixed one so I could report. Took 15 seconds.

I barely moved both screws and now it is tight. I suppose one screw would work well enough also since there was only a hair of play.

Basically you want that screw as loose as possible with no chatter. If it is too tight you can feel a slight resistance in the vertical bearing...not good.
 
Joe Roberts said:
Center screw. Slight nudge.

I just fixed one so I could report. Took 15 seconds.

I barely moved both screws and now it is tight. I suppose one screw would work well enough also since there was only a hair of play.

Basically you want that screw as loose as possible with no chatter. If it is too tight you can feel a slight resistance in the vertical bearing...not good.
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe!
 
I'll adjust later today. By the way, if there is play (i.e. it's not tight but loose) how does that manifest itself sonically? What sonic artifacts would be present when playing a record?
 
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