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BIC Turntables

I do have one question? Im running mine with the smaller spindle and every time i change the record the spindle pops up with the record. Do you know why it does this?

It's just the design. The spindle rotates with the platter, to avoid record hole wear, so it needs to be loose in the spindle bearing. I just hold it down with my thumb while lifting the record off. Or, you can enlarge the record hole on offending records.

Doug
 
It's just the design. The spindle rotates with the platter, to avoid record hole wear, so it needs to be loose in the spindle bearing. I just hold it down with my thumb while lifting the record off. Or, you can enlarge the record hole on offending records.

Doug
Ok cool. I just wanted to make sure that mine wasnt messed up somehow. One other question. When i have the table on manual play the arm returns to its rest then goes back to the record 3 quarters of the way, drops the arm then shuts off with the arm on the record. Any reason why it does this? Maybe an adjustment i can make?
 
The lever or cam follower that keeps the arm at the rest is sticking so it can't move into position to stop the arm. There have been many conversations about that on here but briefly, the two followers are the two thin metal pieces operated by the projections on the big red cam. One determines where the arm lands to play either 12" or 7" records and the other moves into position to keep the arm at the rest when all records have played. These two followers must be completely free to move. The fix is to clean and relube.

I believe there are videos on YouTube about this, too.

Doug
 
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The lever or cam follower that keeps the arm at the rest is sticking so it can't move into position to stop the arm. There have been many conversations about that on here but briefly, the two followers are the two thin metal pieces operated by the projections on the big red cam. One determines where the arm lands to play either 12" or 7" records and the other move into position to keep the arm at the rest when all records have played. These two followers must be completely free to move. The fix is to clean and relube.

I believe there are videos on YouTube about this, too.

Doug

I know which two you’re talking about. Ill have to see if i can free them up and relube them.
 
One way to test it is to apply some WD-40 or the like into the pivot and see if that frees them up. It may even last a while. Usually, however, they will stick again and the parts on that post need to be removed and the old grease cleaned out.

Doug
 
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I've got a couple out in the shop but they both are locked up pretty good, I know I tried in the past to get one free but it felt like epoxy was used. As a kid, I remember the BIC name and logo always looked really cool in the stores but all of the older kids were getting Technics. Regardless of the name, I think they really pushed the "Made in USA" at the time. I was just looking at HiFi Stereo Review 1975 and it looked like there were options for different bases, and just like the photos above, the cover was also an option. I don't think anyone's mentioned the clear smoked bottoms where you can see all of the mechicals.
 
I was tempted in the late 70's to get one, as I thought the speakers they made, specifically the BIC Venturi model was super cool. Loved to see the audio shop guy pull the grill and watch the woofer pump playing Doobie Brothers\China Grove-I was mesmerized.

Bought a Gerrard Zero 100SB, with a Stanton 681EEE, and I was set for the next decade. Still have them, but have added many other tables, so when I see a BIC table on occasion at a thrift store\yard sale, they don't do it for me. They were and still are decent tables.
 
The transparent cover on the bottom of the original bases actually started out being clear but yellow with age. The bottom covers on the later bases, made out of styrene, stay clear.

Doug
 
May as well throw my hat into this ring.

My dad had a 980 what I was a child. It eventually came to me but as it aged it became a bugger and CD's were better and it eventually went away.

I should have a non-working 980 delivered this week.
I was looking for a project table and thought it would be a good place to start, considering I am somewhat comfortable with it already.
As another mentioned earlier, they were very sensitive to movement, like walking through the room.
If I get this running smoothly I'll build a substantial plinth with vibration isolation - I'm a woodworker, why not go overboard?

If there are other forums or sites with additional info on the 980's, I 'd appreciate knowing.
 
I've had the opportunity to work on many changers, and I would say that the BIC'S are some of the easiest to get running again. Cleaning of the old grease definitely goes a long way to get them functional.

One thing I found on my 981 was that the two 470uf 16v electrolytic capacitors had drifted WAY higher than their rating. (700uf+, IIRC.)

If you do replace them, you will need thermal paste because there is a heat sink on a transistor that is held on by a screw that is under the platter. It tightens the heat sink to the metal table base and has a layer of grease, which by now, has hardened.

20201117_083116.jpg
 
Great picture of the board! The device the heat sink is attached to is actually the dual op-amp used for the Wein bridge oscillator to control the platter motor speed but your advice to replenish the paste is excellent.

Doug
 
Great picture of the board! The device the heat sink is attached to is actually the dual op-amp used for the Wein bridge oscillator to control the platter motor speed but your advice to replenish the paste is excellent.

Doug

The schematic and the printing on the circuit board both call for 470uf 16v, but in the picture, (not mine), and my actual board, they were 500uf 16v capacitors. IEC brand, IIRC.
 
BIC wasn't too critical with what they used and it doesn't really matter anyway. They are just filter capacitors and the value isn't critical. In fact, BIC changed the value to 1000uF later.

Doug
 
I guess I was just referring to the two filter caps. The resistors should be within tolerance and, depending on where they are used, correct so the oscillator works.

Doug
 
What is what I'm getting off the leads to the motor.

I tried using an image linked from my web server but it would not work, nor can I remember those tags from this post.
 

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