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Canton Speaker Capacitor and Coil Reference Thread

from audiokarma: 5879 --> Drossel KD FK 52-440-1,04,27- 4,53mH
maybe the same error: (?)
http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-225-2931.html

Thanks for the reply and link. Looks like we have the same/similar problem.
My plan is to disassemble the other speaker with a correct filter and measure the coils to collect the right data. Then buy new ones.
Is it possible to switch the ferrite core coil
(2036) to an air core which the same data as the correct (2036) from the other speaker? Hifikit in Stockholm have bigger variation of air cores than ferritcores.
the board is quite simple an I tried to follow it and made a drawing. Hope you can help me further. You can see the 2036 was beaten up in a late night music session…
Thanks again!

2E5D46C4-F88E-4288-9F31-83AFEE8FF25C.jpeg
 
I would also have suggested measuring the working choke in the other speaker. FK chokes have less ohmic resistance. If you have the impedance value of L2036 and then know the DC resistance as well, you can see if an air core coil can be used without much change. In the other case, you can certainly buy FK chokes new or used.
 
I would also have suggested measuring the working choke in the other speaker. FK chokes have less ohmic resistance. If you have the impedance value of L2036 and then know the DC resistance as well, you can see if an air core coil can be used without much change. In the other case, you can certainly buy FK chokes new or used.

I have now the working 2036 dismounted. I can unfortunately only measure ohm. It is around 3,6ohm. The shorted one is 0,3ohm. So it looks like the problem is here, as the 2036 shortens the amp plus and minus as I can understand from my drawing. Is it normal to have a 3,6 ohm coil parallel with the bass elements?
The double 10” are7,7ohms in parallel, as well.
I mean, is it realistic to think that the 2036 dc resistance 3,6ohm is correct?
It looks also little melted but no burnt smell.
 
I suggest a test: You remove the coil and then connect the amplifyer to the speaker. If it is working now, you will have found the bad part. Normally i think, 3,6 Ohm would be pleasant, but it has not be true, what I am thinking.
 
Great thread. I have two pairs of GL-260's, a pair of Plus-S's, and a Plus Alpha 1 active sub. This info will be invaluable in restoring and checking them all out. Thanks to all who have contributed.
 
Update
I bought two new coils and two new 100uf caps.
The 2036 is now replaced with a Jantzen 30mH 1,2ohm ferritecoil. A very very short test listening and it works and sound good. I will listen properly within a few days. I had to rebuild the board littlebit as the new coil is very heavy and do not have the mounting hole…

FE4DD466-CC1E-4E23-BFFD-65763E76597A.jpeg 35D8E81C-06BF-4A90-8C5A-4B82F24D4170.jpeg E880759F-CC75-40AF-A99B-6F4E049814A0.jpeg B0B6B3C6-893A-44C4-B34C-5A765F45FF0A.jpeg 9D0A670D-390F-4C82-8E62-510C43EF9A91.jpeg DCE891DD-EDBB-4E8A-BCC0-44CECF41370F.jpeg 3424663A-898C-495B-ADE8-7CB6CBCAACC1.jpeg
 
As previously mentioned, this is a great thread!

I have a pair of Canton Ergo Passiv. They sound pretty good as is, but one of the binding posts is broken and I want to take the opportunity to replace all of them, since they are...unorthodox.

I thought that would be an excellent opportunity to replace the electrolytics in the crossover. It looks like my caps are coded:

1615 - 120uf
2801 - 47uf
2379 - 15uf
1882 - 4.7uf

The other thing that I was looking at is how close the inductors are to each other and that they are oriented in the same direction. Should I at least remount the smaller air core ones in the middle with a vertical orientation to minimize crosstalk?

Thanks,
Jeff

Canton Ergo P.jpeg
 
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Ich habe 1983 ein Canton Pullman Autolautsprechersystem gekauft, was sollte ich vorsorglich ersetzen und wo finde ich Ersatzteile? Danke dir


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Photo: https://ibb.co/c1dHgbB
 

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Update number two.
Now my DC122 sound beautiful again! As I said before, I replaced the tweeters few years ago. One original one become silent… so I replaced both with two Scanspeak D3004/660000. They sound great! But I didn’t do anything to the filter. Do you have any suggestions for upgrade here? Just for fun, see attached pictures from before/during the bassfilterrestoration and the original tweeters with the scanspeak deliverybox. As the speaker are “bi-wire” they have two separate filter for bass and mid/high and the mid/high filter is original from around 1997.B96ADE05-550F-4C01-B6F0-75926A9FBB12.jpeg 390EB533-2CF5-4C48-A9B5-E282B1468953.jpeg 596E4138-65F9-440A-A04C-95CBC92842C2.jpeg 63005673-34AE-4169-8F37-9D8398F92CDA.jpeg CC999E1F-4B73-449E-852F-9003B7E8BA99.jpeg E684758F-0304-4D8A-91AA-BBCFEFA2CEE1.jpeg D2AE892B-85D5-4FEE-8A73-7958A806522B.jpeg B4095FCD-DE3F-41D2-8AC2-4C3B833401F0.jpeg
 
I have a pair of Ergo 100s that I am going through. I seem to have a 1664 electrolytic. It's about 50mm or 2" long. Any idea where I can find a film cap that length. Most I have found are about 75mm.
 

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Update
I bought two new coils and two new 100uf caps.
The 2036 is now replaced with a Jantzen 30mH 1,2ohm ferritecoil. A very very short test listening and it works and sound good. I will listen properly within a few days. I had to rebuild the board littlebit as the new coil is very heavy and do not have the mounting hole…

View attachment 2762121 View attachment 2762122 View attachment 2762123 View attachment 2762124 View attachment 2762125 View attachment 2762126 View attachment 2762127
Where did you find the 100uf cap? It is film, right?
 
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