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Early Fairchild 412 build, including new plinth (photo heavy)

Some minor progress, cut out the platter hole….5EB6A606-3F8E-4832-8830-1915A134DEA6.jpeg

Keep in mind on these Fairchild 412s, that the table actually mounts to the top plate, or hangs from the top plate.

Also decided on the wood, have 2 plinths to build, one for the 412 and another a Russco Studio Pro, and didn’t want to use the same wood for both.

So I’ve decided to use something I’d been saving;)

37368C75-5989-4F98-9D45-3C903070AEF9.jpeg

My favorite part, seeing what’s inside :cool:
3D26A75B-AF53-45F7-9DFC-32E298605D40.jpeg 05C4E63C-6E4A-4DA1-85D8-A47AC8AB47AE.jpeg

It’s Blood Wood
 
Finally received the long belt, put it on an:

ED969D7C-3142-4E55-8CA2-6AA47221058F.jpeg

Not too shabby for no adjustments, with no tonearm/cartridge :thumbsup: Also very happy with the perceived table vibration it’s not perceptible standing in front of it.

Tried the 45 rpm but the counter shaft pulley is too low it will eventually change back to 33 rpm so that needs some adjustment.


@BillWojo

When I told you the table was 20” deep, had forgot about adding 2” to the length :oops:

I’m going to exaggerate the fan pattern a bit and make it wider in the rear, this will give me more area for the 12” tonearm board….
 
Was musing about how these Fairchild’s are mounted, or hung would be a more appropriate term. Thought about mounting it to the inner frame that I had planned on installing, but that presented several other issues, more than I wanted to overcome:cool:

So I’ll hang it in the original matter, but that won’t interfere with the inner frame, just not one of my better ideas :bs:

A7A24BAD-EF6D-4E34-9C55-2F82C11FDDD9.jpeg
 
Does it need the mounts sunk? My 411s have cutouts in the top plate for the mounts so sinking them would make it too low.
 
That reminds me of a "better idea" I had as a 12 year old kid that loved bicycles. I was always working on them and decided what the world needed was a 10 speed bike with coaster brakes. Wait!! I'll marry that 5 ring chainring to a 3 speed coaster brake hub and with the front 2 speed derailer I'll have 30 speeds! Brilliant or so I thought. So had my neighbor tig weld the 5 ring chainring to the sprocket hub of the 3 speed coaster brake hub and fitted it all up to my new 30 speed bike.
I still laugh at what happened on my first ride. I'm shifting gears and going faster and faster when I decide to test the brakes by slamming them on. Well the rear derailer spewed all it's guts out on the pavement. I was so excited about having 30 speeds I didn't think about the braking bit very well. When that chain went tight that derailer just popped apart.
Yea, sometimes our ideas aren't all that there cracked up to be. Doesn't stop me from trying though.

Billwojo
 
Does it need the mounts sunk? My 411s have cutouts in the top plate for the mounts so sinking them would make it too low.

No, sinking them was me trying to sort through some of the other issues encountered, but design issues compiled.

It’s certainly doable, changing the mounting that is, just not something I’m willing to pursue when the original approach is simple and proven.

VR
Andy
 
Some minor progress, cut out the platter hole….View attachment 2331254

Keep in mind on these Fairchild 412s, that the table actually mounts to the top plate, or hangs from the top plate.

Also decided on the wood, have 2 plinths to build, one for the 412 and another a Russco Studio Pro, and didn’t want to use the same wood for both.

So I’ve decided to use something I’d been saving;)

View attachment 2331278

My favorite part, seeing what’s inside :cool:
View attachment 2331284 View attachment 2331285

It’s Blood Wood
Nice wood tools.
I can’t wait to see the finished stage.
AG.
 
Well I changed the measurements a bit, just to give myself a little more wiggle room for 10-12 inch arms.

Ended up 22 inches deep and 21 inches wide in the rear, I’ll use 3 feet, one in front and 2 in the rear.

Decided to use maple for the top plate, just not sure if I want it recessed, flush, or proud:dunno:

Cut out the plinth with the new measurements and out of the actual wood, not glued up or anything just sitting on the table…..

C5E21EF8-5E86-4B60-834B-123AB3037DED.jpeg 17CCC4D3-A0EE-4F82-B356-CB2B7E2E0CD6.jpeg 96F149C3-9C88-4EB9-A490-040A9632AC59.jpeg
 
Thanks for the updates.... my woodworking knowledge is minimal so not much to ad but my admiration.

I do have several ROKs that need nice plinths... these threads give me lots of inspiration!
 
@Panamafred

Appreciate your thoughts…

Have a couple of ROKs myself and have built several plinths for them an/or similar.

Encourage you to consider building something yourself, 1 Pine 2x6 would be more than enough to do one for most applications, and butt joints will work and can be done tastefully.

My advice would be to buy 2 or 3 boards 2x6 or 2x8 and practice building a couple of models, most stores will cut them for you, depending on the area some make a single cut for free, and probably only charge a few dollars at worse.

I’d be happy to help in anyway possible….

VR,
Andy
 
Was working on the Russco plinth’s plywood layers, figured no one wants to see that, so in between I mounted, the Fairchild in its top plate.

Plenty of room for 10-12 inch tonearms, just have to decide how to integrate the top:dunno: it may sit there for a while :)

DFB7AE08-CAB5-469A-8114-EB5F76D24647.jpeg 814B7FD1-4CD6-4FEB-A32A-94A25CF276D8.jpeg A06120DB-9259-429C-8948-A132CB16C417.jpeg
 
Taking a day off for contemplation :confused:

Very happy with the top, it’s almost 1” thick Maple, it will turn more golden over time. Might insert it in kinda a raised panel type design….

Hate to cut it up to make arm boards, but arm boards look better than drilling holes in the table, in my opinion, and because I’m always changing arms :naughty:

Here’s the concept areas for the arm boards:
1D199CF3-7718-44EB-972D-7B81BF8C6389.jpeg 51E31995-0698-4E37-9640-32F32EEB7626.jpeg

Who knows, Tomorrow is another day!
 
Many of you know that I’m concurrently working on a couple of Russco heavy plinths. Putting finish on them and need to let it dry between applications, but it’s raining today, so that puts a hold on the Russco’s….

Decided that I’d start putting finish on the Fairchild and work on the arm boards, not a lot of noticeable changes, but it’s coming along….4BD9AF05-DCC8-4DEA-A596-E6F626724DD8.jpeg3C1E5C4F-3BB0-4258-8385-9AD3383EFB85.jpeg
 
That's a different look Andy, I kind of like it. I take it that the armboards blocks in the picture are just mock ups. Your going to need a tonearm that drops down low with that low platter height.

BillWojo
 
That's a different look Andy, I kind of like it. I take it that the armboards blocks in the picture are just mock ups. Your going to need a tonearm that drops down low with that low platter height.

BillWojo

Thanks Bill, was certainly trying for something that I’d not seen before, going with my motto , “special plinth for a special table”:thumbsup: The problem is, I consider all my tables special :crazy:
Should have explained about the blocks, the blocks was as far as I got, too tired to continue :bs:

If they turn out right, the arm boards will sit flush, and I’ll use them as a pattern to make a few more. I’m very pleased with the shape, and I love tonearms, just hate mounting them…
 
When setting the top plate there’s several approaches it’s mainly a matter of taste, but I wanted to inset the top but keep the outer wood it’s current width.

The mock-up had a channel cut (called a rabbet) to recess the top, but that narrows the outside, see below. On the right is how I recessed the top without altering the frame, it also allows one to secure the top from underneath, simple but effective and it doesn’t show…..
D75D6A20-2893-4B1B-B3E5-C6C77741CD7D.jpeg
 
Managed to get the arm boards cut to size, and even got the 12” arm installed:thumbsup: It’s not finished but it’s playing records again after a very long hiatus :beerchug:

Setting up my equipment to test the Russco so of course I had to hook up the Fairchild, speed is 33.4 and stable, which is probably dead on with tonearm and dust bug riding alone ;) and it’s very quiet, no bolts in the motor mounts just the bushings…..

Considerable left to do, the green plexiglass was broken and the piece has a few distracting qualities so I’m redoing it. Also need to mount the on/off switch and I’ll probably install a pilot light somewhere :dunno:

Here it is playing some Miles Davis:

7ABB2495-73C1-4264-9076-752F776D389B.jpeg 61F46C7A-E318-44CB-9B50-FA245D0336DB.jpeg 7873C14F-BB62-469E-84FA-6180AB3DE66B.jpeg
 
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