• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Easy SE for the Masses

You may want to place the output terminals further from the back edge if the top plate is going to sit on the wood base , also will you have clearance for the screws in the output transformer so close to the edge .

The pic is kind of deceiving. I started marking the plate and moved the iron more to the front. The inputs/outputs are .725 in from the back. The top plate will sit inside the wood frame with supports and mounts in the corners.
 
The board is done. I used Kiwame resistors everywhere except PS and cathode resistors. Used Metal Oxide there. Russian coupling caps K42Y. Time to build was a whole album of Stones Hot Rocks and Part of the Animals LP. :D Looks like top plate tomorrow. :thmbsp:

picture.php

picture.php
 
Last edited:
Run shielded wire to the inputs, since they're in the back near the AC. And insulate them from ground. Ground the shield near the input stage.
 
You could use a pair of the Neutrik NFD2D chassis connectors in your wood base. I found them very easy to mount - especially in wood. Used them on my last Zen clone amp.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • nf2d-0.jpg
    nf2d-0.jpg
    45.1 KB · Views: 313
Thanks Tom, I might move the RCA's to one side of the plate away from the IEC socket. Have to get some shielded cable.


Greg, That's a good idea also. I'll check into it.
 
Last edited:
I bought the Triad choke from mouser.553-C-24X. The OPT's are Transcendar TT-312-OT, PT is from Triode PA-774. I used the BOM for mouser. I also bought some Kiwame resistors, tube sockets from Parts ConneXion.

Edit: Here's the link to the PCB and BOM. http://www.diytube.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4893

Looks like a good project & build!
So you are building the 6L6 version? Can you offer any additional insight into your part selection? Why the transcendars over the 'BOM' Edcors? better listed frequency response?

I have been looking at this board & a SET for while. I think I am going to do the Darling 1626 build.
 
Thanks! I'm using the 6L6GC 19 volts and above version. I'll be able to use many different output tubes.

I chose the Trancendars for the better frequency specs and because I wanted a higher quality amp. I've used the Edcors before on different type build. They work very well too. There is a wait time for them. It took 2 weeks for the Trancendars to be built and shipped to my door. The PA774 PT took a week.

For what I paid for iron alone, I could have built the Edcor version of the amp. I chose the Kiwame resistors for the quality. The stock mouser bom parts selection is very good. I could have saved a few bucks that way too.

If you want the Darling 1626 version. I would get the Edcor package. It will take very efficient speakers at 3/4watt output. Wait time for the Edcor is 4 to 6 weeks.

Edit: I use full range single driver speakers. MarkAudio Alpair 10P's/Pensils. They only go down to about 45Hz. They are not that efficient either.
 
Last edited:
Thanks - all good info!
The transformers selection does look very nice. I will consider similar quality and some good caps for my build!

I do want a SET amp, and the darling via clementine board seems like a good option. As you noted, the tougher part of this project may be the speakers. I don't think I have a pair that will work well.
 
Thanks - all good info!
The transformers selection does look very nice. I will consider similar quality and some good caps for my build!

I do want a SET amp, and the darling via clementine board seems like a good option. As you noted, the tougher part of this project may be the speakers. I don't think I have a pair that will work well.

When you use SE tube amps think horns for the midrange , and tweeters for speakers .
 
Cut top plate today. This will be the last update for a while. I need to figure out how I going to finish the plate. Either clear it or powder coat Hotrod Red. I have to cut out the wood base too.

picture.php
 
Looks awesome. I like the hotrod red idea, I think it'll be very unique especially if you decide to paint the wood base black.
 
Yeah, The transformers are black so the red might look different than just clear aluminum. Last time I used clear automotive paint. It did scratch easy.

Have to see about the base. :) I use red oak for the wood, unless you have some exotic wood leftover at the shop. :scratch2: :D
 
I might be able to help you out with that. Can you tell me what size you're looking for? I can go digging and see what we've got.
 
The red oak is 2.5x.750. (1x3). The top is 10x12, so 2.5 to 3 inches tall. The top plate will sit inside the outer frame.
 
mark,

looks like a great build! looks like you are making great choices.

i have a darling clementine from tom mcnally. no frills and its the .75 watt version, but sounds wonderful. i use it for the audio nirvana 8" in my main open baffle rig.
 
Back
Top Bottom