ESS AMT-3 replacement woofer candidates

[SmileyFaceEQ]

Keeping the speaker original as best as possible preserves the value and sound of the original speaker design. Upgrading quality of the components of the crosovers would help.

If you are swapping drivers, might as well build a kick ass set of open baffles.

 

[automojo]

Keeping the speaker original as best as possible preserves the value and sound of the original speaker design. Upgrading quality of the components of the crosovers would help.

If you are swapping drivers, might as well build a kick ass set of open baffles.

The threads about ESS AMT3 replacement woofer candidates.
Not about open baffles-did I miss something?
Are you familiar with the "original" AMT3 sound, as a point of reference?
Anything to offer in that regard besides vague audio recommendations-that don't seem to relate at all to the topic at hand?

 

[SmileyFaceEQ]

The threads about ESS AMT3 replacement woofer candidates.
Not about open baffles-did I miss something?
Are you familiar with the "original" AMT3 sound, as a point of reference?
Anything to offer in that regard besides vague audio recommendations-that don't seem to relate at all to the topic at hand?

ESS speakers are wonderful. I own several sets. I restore speakers regulary. Open baffle speakers sound better when built properly.
The small heil is nice. Large heil are on sale at ess online. 3's sound great paired with a ca1010. Internal wire replacement is worthwhile.

 

[automojo]

ESS speakers are wonderful. I own several sets. I restore speakers regulary. Open baffle speakers sound better when built properly.
The small heil is nice. Large heil are on sale at ess online. 3's sound great paired with a ca1010. Internal wire replacement is worthwhile.

Awesome!

 

[kwingylee]

Just checked the Dayton ds270 pricing. It’s now $89 each. The rs270 is now $139.00!! 25% to 30% increase per unit price.

 

[automojo]

Sure
A lot of that has to do with the massive increase in shipping containers I bet. $3000.00 to $30000 for one of my vendors-for example.
The DA270-8 is $69 up $10 from last year.
Still a real bargain IMHO
look for coupons…PE is good for having a few, especially if your patient.
When I purchased my DA270-8 with discounts it was around $214 for 4.
In the past I have called in a order, and asked for, and received discounts as well.
Worth a try.
IMHO your not gaining anything with either the DS270-8 or RS, unless you wanted to run a vented cabinet.
The DA270-8 clearly is made, in all practicality- given it’s specs-for sealed cabinet use only.
And that’s the beauty of it… it’s specs are spot on for a sealed AMT3 cabinets with 2x10” woofers.
It’s certainly a better match for the Great Heil, and the sealed midbass driver.
Lower distortion bass, better transient response.
Not to mention easier to tune the damping.
It’s a win win.
The main disadvantage of a sealed cabinet, the lower efficiency- is offset by the 2x 10 woofers-wired in parallel, the bumps you up +3db.

Being that it crosses over @250 hz… it just needs to be flat and smooth in that easy range.

Even the transition driver is loafing.

 

[automojo]

The biggest constraint with upgrading a stock AMT3 has always been finding a 10” woofer that will work well a in 2.6 cu ft enclosure.

 

[Porkloin]

The biggest constraint with upgrading a stock AMT3 has always been finding a 10” woofer that will work well a in 2.6 cu ft enclosure.

Correction: A PAIR of 10 inch woofers that will work with a 2.6 cubic foot enclosure.
Not that anyone pays attention to TS parameters as a starting point in the woofer quest with so much loose hearsay in abundance.

 

[automojo]

Correction: A PAIR of 10 inch woofers that will work with a 2.6 cubic foot enclosure.
Not that anyone pays attention to TS parameters as a starting point in the woofer quest with so much loose hearsay in abundance.

Oh I think most do.
Yep dual woofs.
But when you’re dealing with a physical object specs only tell you part of the story.
Either there’s a large margin of error or some specs are more loosely stated etc.
As we have seen on these threads over the years a number of different woofers have been used successfully, at least for their owners in AMT3’s.
The nice thing about the DA-270-8-is you can do the bare minimum-and have a good result.
They are not super heavy.
The few things you need to do are as follows.
One, drill different mounting holes.
Get some P.E. gasket tape-and stick it directly to the stock woofer mounting surfaces so the woofers seal properly.
Third-plug the port.
4th-enjoy a AMT3 with the bass it should have had pout of the factory.
Oh-I forgot
5th-donate the stock woofers to Goodwill.

 

[automojo]

Well-there is no reason you could run a single 10"-as some have suggested in the past.
Or a passive/active.
Or 1x15" Gauss woofer.
Or hell you could mermanchrist it @ 3 boxes.

 

[automojo]

Or use these......

 

[Porkloin]

Oh I think most do.

But when you’re dealing with a physical object specs only tell you part of the story.

I understand that TS specs are only part of the story, hence the phrase, "starting point."
TS specs are not everyone's cup of tea. Most bypass them entirely in favor of the subjective, largely unsubstantiated opinions of someone who sounds a little more "knowledgeable" than they do.
Even more tragic is accepting someone else' opinion on what sounds good, as opposed to listening to one's own ear. It's a fine art. One of your favorite talking points, foam and fill, is the ultimate place for the trial and error of self discovery, and yet too many would rather be handed a given configuration than sample the variations for themselves.

 

[automojo]

I understand that TS specs are only part of the story, hence the phrase, "starting point."
TS specs are not everyone's cup of tea. Most bypass them entirely in favor of the subjective, largely unsubstantiated opinions of someone who sounds a little more "knowledgeable" than they do.
Even more tragic is accepting someone else' opinion on what sounds good, as opposed to listening to one's own ear. It's a fine art. One of your favorite talking points, foam and fill, is the ultimate place for the trial and error of self discovery, and yet too many would rather be handed a given configuration than sample the variations for themselves.

View attachment 2614379

Yep
I hundred percent agree
And that’s the problem when a person reads these threads
People like myself I have a tendency to ramble and repeat.
Mainly for myself I think aloud a lot of times when posting here
However it’s up to the reader and the independent listener to find out things for himself
I’ve had a number of guys in the past want guarantees and specifics
Audio isn’t about that especially when you’re modifying a speaker like this
It’s a hobby you have to figure it out for yourself
If you’re not willing to spend the time and money then just go out and buy something already made
Save yourself the hassle!

 

[automojo]

I understand that TS specs are only part of the story, hence the phrase, "starting point."
TS specs are not everyone's cup of tea. Most bypass them entirely in favor of the subjective, largely unsubstantiated opinions of someone who sounds a little more "knowledgeable" than they do.
Even more tragic is accepting someone else' opinion on what sounds good, as opposed to listening to one's own ear. It's a fine art. One of your favorite talking points, foam and fill, is the ultimate place for the trial and error of self discovery, and yet too many would rather be handed a given configuration than sample the variations for themselves.

View attachment 2614379

And you look at your cabinet-well damped. Structurally solid.
Over built.
But this means solid and clean, uncolored bass.
This bass-frankly-is something I have rarely heard over the years.
Most speakers have a definitive bass sound.
And you can certainly tell when you beef the enclosure up-and magically the color is gone.
Pretty cool stuff!!

 

[Porkloin]

And you look at your cabinet-well damped. Structurally solid.
Over built.
But this means solid and clean, uncolored bass.
This bass-frankly-is something I have rarely heard over the years.
Most speakers have a definitive bass sound.
And you can certainly tell when you beef the enclosure up-and magically the color is gone.
Pretty cool stuff!!

There is nothing like big drivers in the main speakers. All serious listening is done with them, as opposed to the skinny towers in the home theater. I get the best of the both worlds between the 10 inchers and the transition drivers. Both the tightness of a well padded bass drum and the drawn out notes of a string bass.

 

[automojo]

Yep
Nothing like 2x10” woofers
A sweet spot
I have had 3 different sets of speakers with twin 10”s

 

[lacrosplayer]

Looking at the specs the DA175-8 may fit-at least with the cut/out spec.
The big problem here is the 85db sensitivity.
A deal killer with the AMT3.

Has anyone looked at "PRV mids (PRV 6MR200A) looks good. However I dont know how the kevlar loaded paper will match.

 

[SmileyFaceEQ]

Add a brace or two to reduce cabinet resonance.

 

[automojo]

Add a brace or two to reduce cabinet resonance.

That's all been covered before

 

[automojo]

Has anyone looked at "PRV mids (PRV 6MR200A) looks good. However I dont know how the kevlar loaded paper will match.

5db dip from 250-to-1k.
No thanks!
The Alpha 6A, is easily one of the finest midbass/midrange drivers out there.
It's midrange response compares favorably to one of the best mids out there, period, -Audax PR170MO.
The Audax is not a midbass driver. Unless you adjust the crossover-it won't work well here.
Sure the Alpha is $80 now-but your getting high value for each$ spent here.
Again-to repat-it's a narrow, but critical range the transition driver covers. It just needs to be smooth in this narrow range.
The only ones I have found acceptable here are the stock driver-or Alpha 6A.