FF/REW fix ctf-8282,9191,1000 RXA-581, NOT DIY
If it's still open, what voltage do you have on the FF/RW motor? Mine has about 5v but I've seen a thread indicating it should be closer to 12v.
(I have all new belts, tires, pulley, and a clutch rebuilt by Zebulon1 but still no FF/RW.)
whitebull
New Member
Unfortunately it's in the rack.
Mine had been sitting for 35+ years, hence old gummed up grease everywhere. All the mechanicals were cleaned/greased/oiled as appropriate.
The FF motor was gritty. Cleaning the surfaces and removing the tarnish along with a very light oiling made it as smooth & quiet as a capstan. Replaced the pulley as well. FF/REV are now as strong as I can remember.
Mine had been sitting for 35+ years, hence old gummed up grease everywhere. All the mechanicals were cleaned/greased/oiled as appropriate.
The FF motor was gritty. Cleaning the surfaces and removing the tarnish along with a very light oiling made it as smooth & quiet as a capstan. Replaced the pulley as well. FF/REV are now as strong as I can remember.
Attachments
I finished the replacement FF Idler "A" RNK-188 3D printed clutch.
The major hold up was the felt pad material.
Next week I should have the file available and the printed part its self.
The images below show the Idler "B" installed which I printed and can be had if needed.
The major hold up was the felt pad material.
Next week I should have the file available and the printed part its self.
The images below show the Idler "B" installed which I printed and can be had if needed.
nakmandan
Vintage Nak enthusiast
Has anybody had any luck trying to 3D print the inner reel hubs that are always cracked? I have a CT-A1 on my bench with both reel hubs cracked all the way through. They still grip the shaft well enough so they don't slip, but now since they are expanded, the spring loaded slip collars that engage the cassette hubs bind and do a poor job of engaging the cassette hubs. I know any plastic part that has to friction fit over a metal shaft, so under tension trying to pull the piece apart, have had poor results. The same can be said for most of the plastic pulleys in the CT-F series. Nearly all are cracked and many slip on their shafts. It isn't just a problem for Pioneer either, but the old CT-F series suffer from this particularly.
I think we need a machinist who can use one of those mini lathes to make these parts. All new transport pulleys and clutch parts, nice. I have full restored CT F1000 that doesn't like to play when its cold out and it hasn't been play in awhile, fine when warmed up. I was going to buy a mini lathe but I would have to learn right from the beginning .
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It would be easier and cheaper to learn Onshape design software and Print the parts than having to turn them from the complete beginning.
I would be curious to why the OAT has anything to do with the failure. Unless you live outside in the Midwest. It could be a warning sign?
I would be curious to why the OAT has anything to do with the failure. Unless you live outside in the Midwest. It could be a warning sign?
I bet it does. I’m wondering how, other than warming up the house or keeping them on could help. I can print almost all the nylon parts but I need the part to reverse engineer it.
If you haven’t replaced the rubber tires or pinch rollers they will get hard in only a few years. Maybe hard enough to cause issues when the temp drops? One tire is used for the play function. Pinched between the capstan and right play reel. The other tire is on the clutch which runs both reels when in FF/REW, pinched between the Rewind motor rubber tire and the reels. The grease used from the factory is old and gets gummy. The sliding plate grease might cause an issue if it can’t slide all the way up to meet the tape. The head sliding plate has four bearings it rides on. Those should be cleaned and regreased with super lube. Makes a big difference having new oil and grease in the right spots.
If you haven’t replaced the rubber tires or pinch rollers they will get hard in only a few years. Maybe hard enough to cause issues when the temp drops? One tire is used for the play function. Pinched between the capstan and right play reel. The other tire is on the clutch which runs both reels when in FF/REW, pinched between the Rewind motor rubber tire and the reels. The grease used from the factory is old and gets gummy. The sliding plate grease might cause an issue if it can’t slide all the way up to meet the tape. The head sliding plate has four bearings it rides on. Those should be cleaned and regreased with super lube. Makes a big difference having new oil and grease in the right spots.
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I did everything to these decks I have . Terrys rollers cracked so I bought the complete set from Van-Hurban on eBay , nice well made . I think its the tire , the material its made from is to firm .The deck will play slow until it warms up . I have a 950 (complete restore) had not played it in few months ,now no take reel movement . The 3 causes, the tire (or belt) is slipping or the white nylon pulleys are binding . I also notice that some replacements tires are not die-cut they are sliced cut from tubing . The original tires were rubber and die-cut I think .
It was the CT F950 that wouldn't play until I warmed up the transport with a hair dryer, it plays now but FF is slipping and not moving the tape, rewind works.
My CT F1000 plays slow when not used frequently in the cold weather after few slow plays it warms up and plays . RW and FF work fine.
My CT F1000 plays slow when not used frequently in the cold weather after few slow plays it warms up and plays . RW and FF work fine.
What did you use for the felt pad ?
I used self adhesive felt and it works great but the overall design needed a revision.
The best approach was to print new parts but use the sleeve as support. The FF Idler "B" had to be printed to accept the sleeve diameter.
I should have it all finalized by tomorrow.
I'm using it my 9191 and it works great.
The best approach was to print new parts but use the sleeve as support. The FF Idler "B" had to be printed to accept the sleeve diameter.
I should have it all finalized by tomorrow.
I'm using it my 9191 and it works great.
The Idler you gave me(thanks) cracked when I put the end cap on it.
My collar fixed clutch seems to be working .As far as I tell the FF/RW slow down is the back tension pad on my CTF-9191 . I used a slightly stronger spring on the supply reel assembly and the BT still makes it slip.
My collar fixed clutch seems to be working .As far as I tell the FF/RW slow down is the back tension pad on my CTF-9191 . I used a slightly stronger spring on the supply reel assembly and the BT still makes it slip.
For all the slop and take-up in the transport mech, it's funny how close things need to be, There's that one little sweet spot on about everything that moves in there.
I'm working on a revision for the idler and should have something soon.
I'm working on a revision for the idler and should have something soon.
The CT-F 9191 clutch I did the collar fix to appears good, everything moves freely and it floats on the axial above the plate. But I have the FF/RW slow down issue when it gets near to the end of the tape. I can see the motor drive tire pull the clutch in towards the motor and it stays there the whole time. I can also see the e- clip sometimes spin on the axial. When it starts to slow I hear some friction, not a squeal but similar. Could I be loosing torque at the friction fit cap washer and e-clip or is there to much play in the axial plate which allows it to be drawn in? I've tried moving the motor drive tire outward a little ,no change. The drive is right over the FF/RW clutch ribbed wheel when in FF/RW motion. The motor appears strong , I cut the tape on a cassette so one reel is full and the motor drives it strong in either FF/RW. I'm looking at the play in the axial plate , any ideas? thanks
Start by cleaning and relubing the counter. That added drag, which is slight, will still cause trouble. Especially when in FF, when the take up drive is through the cassette tape.
There’s an adjustment for the clutch assembly tension by using those adjustment holes at the end of the pivot arm. Its in the SM.
There’s an adjustment for the clutch assembly tension by using those adjustment holes at the end of the pivot arm. Its in the SM.