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FF/REW fix ctf-8282,9191,1000 RXA-581, NOT DIY

Zeb, you are a rock star!!! Hope your printer can keep up with the demand. FIRST DIBS on a full set once you have tested them. I called it!
 
I’m having fun learning the 3D Printing thing. The clutch and now the take-up cogs.
Marks repair sleeve process is still the best option as its full proof with reliable operating history. The counter pulley on the playback reel could be a potential issue but cracks I see may not hinder the operation. Edit: See posts below. There‘s not much effort needed to operate the counter. At least on mine, the cracks are not causing problems.
We‘ll see how the new parts hold up with some rigorous testing. The filament seems like a perfect match for the plastic parts that are breaking.
 
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A few more plastic parts are printed for these decks.
The playback pulley for the tape counter is another that cracks.
I have a print for that. There's a spring that is held in using the force fit of this pulley. I the fit isn't tight enough on the spindle, the assembly will come apart, and pieces will fly. I was able to find all the parts :D
Also the capstan lateral take-up spacer was broken (Below image) in the past and someone had glued it in.
I have a print for that as well. They are not even shown on the exploded view.

DSC07842.JPG

DSC07843.JPG
 
zebulon1 said:
A few more plastic parts are printed for these decks.
The playback pulley for the tape counter is another that cracks.
I have a print for that. There's a spring that is held in using the force fit of this pulley. I the fit isn't tight enough on the spindle, the assembly will come apart, and pieces will fly. I was able to find all the parts :D
Also the capstan lateral take-up spacer was broken (Below image) in the past and someone had glued it in.
I have a print for that as well. They are not even shown on the exploded view.

View attachment 3411622

View attachment 3411625
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This could be huge. I have a number of high-end Pioneer cassette decks that I've had in dry dock for years. I would LOVE to get these back up and running with new parts!
 
hi all. apologies if this isn't the pace for this question, I'm new to the whole forum thing. Can any members who know a bit about these decks tell me if the CT-F6161 also suffers from this idler clutch issue? I found one i'd love to buy but not if there's a high risk of common failure. thanks for any help from the experts
 
I'm going to follow this thread to see if these 3D printed parts hold up longer term. I'm interested primarily from a standpoint of wanting data on the longevity of such mechanical parts produced by 3D print process, though I do have a CT-F900 here that needs work. This looks promising.
 
zebulon1 said:
We are able to print everything that’s been needed so far, for this F1000. There are other plastic bits that could be potential issues.
I’m confident we can reproduce any damaged plastic parts.
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Any updates on how the process is going, and how the new printed parts are holding up? Tackled printing 9191 parts yet?!? Keeping my fingers crossed for all of us!!! Send our best to Mark…
 
rix said:
hi all. apologies if this isn't the pace for this question, I'm new to the whole forum thing. Can any members who know a bit about these decks tell me if the CT-F6161 also suffers from this idler clutch issue? I found one i'd love to buy but not if there's a high risk of common failure. thanks for any help from the experts
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Welcome to AK!
Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the CT-F6161. The service manual is available online. Hopefully it has pictures so you can verify if the clutch is the same as those shown on this post.
 
Dear all, thank you for your postings on this matter. Was kindly helped by Zebulon on the clutch work. Although the clutches were repaired, the idlers turned aleatory. What did the fix for me was then changing ALL belts, on idler, counter, driver and especially the motor gummi. I read somewhere they get dull from rotating against a clutch that didn't work. So that did the trick. Also make sure the new motor gummi is well engaged on the clutch for perfect contact. Thanks again, a pleasure to repair two 9090 units I have known and played since I was born. greetings
 
philled said:
Dear all, thank you for your postings on this matter. Was kindly helped by Zebulon on the clutch work. Although the clutches were repaired, the idlers turned aleatory. What did the fix for me was then changing ALL belts, on idler, counter, driver and especially the motor gummi. I read somewhere they get dull from rotating against a clutch that didn't work. So that did the trick. Also make sure the new motor gummi is well engaged on the clutch for perfect contact. Thanks again, a pleasure to repair two 9090 units I have known and played since I was born. greetings
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Welcome to AK, glad we could help!
 
zebulon1 said:
We are able to print everything that’s been needed so far, for this F1000. There are other plastic bits that could be potential issues.
I’m confident we can reproduce any damaged plastic parts.
Click to expand...
Are you sharing the STL files? Or selling the parts? I have a bad clutch on my 9191 and need the parts
 
Some details I want to mention:
Do not try and glue the broken parts together. It will not last.
Repairing the clutch is much easier to do when the failure is original.
There are actually three clutches in that assembly. Overly designed but they need to work together.
Marks repair is by far the best way to go when reviving one of these decks.
An eBay seller does the same repair for $200 so save yourself some money. Mark developed the repair and did this for the community and I feel the same way.
Edit:
I see OhmBob is selling a service for the clutch and motor restore that is cheaper than the $200.

If any members have donor deck parts that could be salvaged for the clutch parts, I would be interested.
 
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