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G8000 with no sound

My Technics SU-9070 was chock-full of them...the white- cylindrical -resistor looking ones. their values wander with time.
see 1:15-1:24
 
Just want to confirm before I go ahead and install these replacements.

2SA818 is now going to be KSA1220
and
2SC1628 is now going to be KSC2690
Thanks
 
Also, Bourns trimmer for bias
Mouser 652-3299P-1-101LF

I have the factory one turned full clockwise, which would be all the way down before I pull it, is that correct?
 
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/g-8000-dc-offsett-bias-adjustment.144267/

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pointers-on-g8000-offset-and-bias-adjustment.234583/

https://liquidaudio.com.au/sansui-g-8000-monster-receiver-service-repair/

"Those bias and offset pot settings are initial starting off points and are suitable here also. Starting out with the bias set at minimum never hurts and is usually recommended after repairs such as replacing outputs for example. If the unit is known working and your just checking and tweaking just measure it and adjust if necessary (CCW to decrease and CW to increase) When in doubt start out with bias set to minimum in ANY amplifier. You already know the offset isn't terrible so no real need to start off with the pots in the middle. Just do your adjustments now for as close to 0mV as you can. "overloard.


 
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Great links raycarr00!

A little help here....
Both driver board are done! The fuse resistors actually disintegrated when pulling them out, crazy.

All output trans are done!

RL1&2 are kind of a bear. Desoldering gun has little to no effect. The pins and factory solder are very large per pin. Even with extra flux applied, nothing. What's the trick to these?

Desoldered RL 3 without a problem because the board pins are very small.
The replacement Omron MY4-DC24 Mouser part # 653-MY4-DC24 is the wrong part.
The tabs are too big, they need to be very small to fit.
Is there a relay that will fit this location?

Thank all of you....... getting closer
 
I: add fresh solder to the old, add fresh solder to the tip of the desoldering gun and gently apply it (hovering) to the old solder and when it melts, slurp! add paste to the area to protect from lifting traces...set the desoldering iron at 350 deg.

F.
 
thesaint said:
The replacement Omron MY4-DC24 Mouser part # 653-MY4-DC24 is the wrong part.
The tabs are too big, they need to be very small to fit.
Is there a relay that will fit this location?
Click to expand...
Yes you need a MY4-02-DC24 which is the solder pin version, you've got a plug in version there.
If you look up the part number it will turn up at your search in the Mouser search engine.
 
thesaint said:
Desoldering gun has little to no effect. The pins and factory solder are very large per pin. Even with extra flux applied, nothing. What's the trick to these?
Click to expand...
What soldering iron do you have?
You need to use a fair bit of heat to get that solder flowing, and like the other guys have said, add in some solder, this will help it flow.
I use over 400˚C for those types of situations.
 
Got it, thank you. I will get them out and order the correct part.
Since I have to do another order, is there any other, "you should really replace" on the F-2809 board since I have it exposed and workable. Or anywhere else for that matter.
 
I think the speaker relays are different ? 2 relays for the speakers, and one - the one above, for the headphone switching etc - best check this with Kev @kevzep - or someone else in the 'know' before finalising any new parts order. ;)
 
Yes I have the correct two spk relays, it's just the factory ones refuse to vacate the property. I will win the battle though.
Because if this, I'm now pro non board soldered relays. :confused:
 
thesaint said:
it's just the factory ones refuse to vacate the property
Click to expand...
My trusty 40W Weller TCP iron makes short work of anything like that - especially if I switch to a 5mm 'number 9' bit (the hottest) - I normally use a chamfered 3.2mm conical number 7 bit.

The size of bit makes a big difference (pun not intended) - almost more than increased temperature - you want thermal capacity (think large bit) rather than temperature for large joints with something big attached (i.e. relay).
 
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