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G8000 with no sound

As long as you are aware that the MJ21193/4 have less than half the bandwidth of the original transistors, they will work but they compromise the sound of the unit.
I have done extensive testing with this and I can easily hear the difference.
 
As I'm obviously putting together an order;
All output transistors, 3 relays on F-2809.

Both pairs of driver trans on F-2806's test good, but is the consensus to change these as well with the recommended subs? Or can I just pull and re-paste?

Are there any other must changes to get on this first order to get it back functioning.
A lot of threads say to check R04 on F-2808. It ohms out to 4.1

This unit is in remarkably great physical condition inside and out. Hopefully it won't take too much to get it going again.
 
Ok
I believe this one is different than the others. It says Omron Type LY2S DC24

Is this the correct one?
Mouser 653-LY2-DC24
 
"There are two LY2-0-DC24 relays, one for the 'A' speaker system, and the other for the 'B' speakers. The third relay, an MY4-02-DC24, is for the headphones and the Protect/Power LED's.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90275

Don't forget that the 'Connected/Separated' switch near the speaker connections is a major source of channel dropouts."echowars.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/dirty-g-8000-relay-s.245676/
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr....m570.l1313&_nkw=G8000+sansui+relays&_sacat=0
 
Great links, that takes care of the correct relays Thanks!
Yes on keep the good driver trans? Or change anyway.
 
well,if you're keeping it...selling it....best to replace them. overall channel balance and good karma. you want it to rock!
 
Have been spending what little time I have on this pouring over old threads regarding the F2806 boards from G8/9 posts.
I have tested just about every part on the boards, and they are all testing good with values compared to the SM.

Some questions, with regards to visual inspection. ZD01/02 leads are black but test good and R17/20 look aged. Or is it because it was a whitish resistor that has been heat cycled vs all the sky blue ones on that board.
Just really want to know what exactly "should" be replaced even if it all tests good. In other words, known troublesome parts?
 
The Bluish resistors are not fusible, they rarely if ever give issue.
How are you testing the Zeners? They do not test the same way as a diode. But I have never found any problems with the Zeners in these amps.
Take a clear picture of the board so we can see what you're dealing with, then we might be able to help...
 
the electrolytic caps (polars & bipolars)...raise their voltages if you can fit the new caps in the space...leave the polystyrenes and polys be...out of spec /worn resistors and diodes...those little Chinese multitesters are good in testing transistors against the data sheets. substituting diodes have IMHO/ experience,resulted in neg results. like the song says: "...take your time, do it right, (you) can do it baby...."
 
R17 and R20 are fusible resistors and need to be replaced, use metal film. I think they are 150Ω, 1/4 watt. When these drift in value, as they all do, the bias cannot be set.
Do the electro caps.
I'd replace those TO202 transistors (the ones with those tabs on them), they are notoriously unreliable.
Be very careful around those STV diode packs on the heatsink, those legs can snap off very easily.
Replace the trimmers for bias and DC offset too.
Remember, on this circuit, turning the bias trimmer clockwise DECREASES the bias.
 
Copy that on there recommendations!

Will replace all caps, R17/20
ZD01/02?

(4) 2SA818 (green) with KSA1831?
or KSA1142?
(4) 2SC1628 (black) with 2SC4793?
or KSA3503?

I've read many different recommended subs, just want to get the right ones.

I do have one off those component testers and they do work great.

I could either pull the zeners and test or leave and test them live when reassembled.
 
thesaint said:
Copy that on there recommendations!

Will replace all caps, R17/20
ZD01/02?

(4) 2SA818 (green) with KSA1831?
or KSA1142?
(4) 2SC1628 (black) with 2SC4793?
or KSA3503?

I've read many different recommended subs, just want to get the right ones.

I do have one off those component testers and they do work great.

I could either pull the zeners and test or leave and test them live when reassembled.
Click to expand...
KSA1220 and KSC2690, this is what I use.
No need to change the Zener's.
 
petehall347 said:
is the schematic correct regarding fuse resistor id ? square with a cross inside ?
Click to expand...
No the schematic is not always correct, sometimes there are fusible in these positions, sometimes there are not. I know from working on many of these amplifiers that the ones in the pic are fusible.
If they are not, then they are carbon comp.....
 
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