Anyone tried replacing the RCA terminals on the back? I have a 299c; it's beautiful except for one issue. The right phono jack does not hold the cable in tightly. My tech has tightened it a few times, but problem comes back. I know the space is tight and this would be a pain. Anyone tried with success?
HH Scott Owners Thread
- Thread starter RS Steve
- Start date
therling
Active Member
The plating on all the RCA jacks on my 299B had worn off and were rusty and useless. I replaced them with individual RCA jacks. It’s a job where you need to take the back panel off. I had to drill out the rivets and replace them with screws. I reused the epoxy wafer mounts. The holes had to be enlarged to fit the new jacks.
Biggest hassle is soldering all that wiring back on.
Attachments
Scott 340b.
Updates included:
New can capacitors. Was able to find new cans with the same values. New film and electrolytics throughout, mostly Nichicon.
Selenium rectifier removed in place of a Silicon bridge and added a 5w sand resistor to bring the voltage down.
Replaced the black felt paper on the tuning dial.
Replaced all the neon lights with new ones. Nice bright orange color.
Added blue dial leds. I have orange, but the blue just looked better against the orange neon indicators.
New dial glass from Radio Daze, NY. The lettering fell off the original and it was heart breaking to say the least. But the new one is a perfect reproduction and indistinguishable from the original.
All the knobs and knob covers are original. New glue helped with that.
Added new aluminum feet (not shown as the bottom was not installed.)
Lots of soap and water, cleaner wax and some polish to get it to shine. It is in very good condition.
Sound is still awesome. A live concert is a live concert. Highs are crystal clear, midrange is warm, low end is rich and punchy.
It does need some additional TLC, but my bench has another reciever on it. So eventually.....
Updates included:
New can capacitors. Was able to find new cans with the same values. New film and electrolytics throughout, mostly Nichicon.
Selenium rectifier removed in place of a Silicon bridge and added a 5w sand resistor to bring the voltage down.
Replaced the black felt paper on the tuning dial.
Replaced all the neon lights with new ones. Nice bright orange color.
Added blue dial leds. I have orange, but the blue just looked better against the orange neon indicators.
New dial glass from Radio Daze, NY. The lettering fell off the original and it was heart breaking to say the least. But the new one is a perfect reproduction and indistinguishable from the original.
All the knobs and knob covers are original. New glue helped with that.
Added new aluminum feet (not shown as the bottom was not installed.)
Lots of soap and water, cleaner wax and some polish to get it to shine. It is in very good condition.
Sound is still awesome. A live concert is a live concert. Highs are crystal clear, midrange is warm, low end is rich and punchy.
It does need some additional TLC, but my bench has another reciever on it. So eventually.....
GD70
Lunatic Member
Bad enough they put their SS number on it, but on the front face to boot! Ruined a beautiful looking amp by doing that!
Forgot to mention, probably the best part was this reciever was a rescue. My father in law worked at the town landfill and this receiver was dropped off as not working. He gave it to me to see if I could save it.
Destructor
Super Member
Nice 340B, I may hook mine up again soon.
Dswankey
Lunatic Member
If I were to guess, it looks like early solid state because of the dial glass. I have seen that style on solid state Scott gear before. Only way to know for sure is to look insude unless there is a model number you can spot.
Nice job! A tip if you like to keep things looking fresh but vintage - McMaster Carr has the 4-40 slotted binder head screws that the kit companies would have sent along back in the day to install those RCA jack boards. I keep a big box of them around for working on vintage electronics.
Dswankey
Lunatic Member
So I decided to do some sleuthing based on images from the listing, I think I've narrowed it down to being a "Copley 203" based on attached and info from this previous thread, which I'm still going through.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/scott-copley-203-console.378104/page-2
alchemist
Active Member
Just popped up on craigslist close to where I live - a 'later' serial number Scott Exeter. the SN is of the receiver is 376646, while interestingly, the SN of the console is different - 377063. It has a Dual 1009, a Sony RtR, and the receiver. It does have the Field Effect symbol as well. Guy just wants $100 and claims it works (well, he didn't test the RtR). May get some pics posted later.
Actually, at the top it does say, 'Silicon Solid State', so there's no debate. The Sony model is a 250.
Actually, at the top it does say, 'Silicon Solid State', so there's no debate. The Sony model is a 250.
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Nimbley
Active Member
H H Scott stereomaster Type 130 Pre-Amplifier. Looking good & sounding good.
View attachment 2569931 View attachment 2569932 View attachment 2569933
That's a really nice looking survivor. That's one I'd love to add to my collection but finding them isn't easy. Especially as spotless as yours.
alchemist
Active Member
Attachments
I posted a thread a few weeks back about my 340B but no one replied. If anyone has a working restored 340B, and have a signal generator, scope and a 8 ohm 100watt dummy load, can you measure the power you get out of your amp using the 0 speaker connection for the (neg) and 8 ohms for the positive? Mine produces 10v peak to peak before clipping which only works out to 1 watt RMS or so. Something doesn't make sense as I am able to hook to up to speakers and it's quite loud. I am thinking it has to do with the 4 ohm tap being grounded on these amps and a lot of the Scott's where a lot of amps ground the black tap lead.
cjmustang69
Well-Known Member
Scott 222b integrated amp and LT-110 tuner, which I use with JBL 4430 and Quad ESL-63 speakers. I enjoy them very much.
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