JBL 4311's = system complete... for now.
- Thread starter Brainwashed
- Start date
mati1979
Active Member
hi Zilch, i have tested individually, a tweeter good 8.2 ohms , mid 8.1 ohms but woofer 5.8 ohms :tears:
i dont know, why this ? a woofer seemed to new :scratch2:
Some problem if I use the bafles like that ?
Measure both sets, to see if the difference is in the drivers.
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical Sheet/L100A ts.pdf
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical Sheet/L100A ts.pdf
audiofred
Active Member
Jbl 4311
OK folks
I have a pair of 4311B's and am considering going through the rigors of re-capping the xovers. This has been a very interesting thread in deed. THe links and the hard work of others, will make this a successful project.
I was wondering about speaker placement for these guys?? Are they better on the floor?? Raised up on small stands?? Mounted on the wall on shelves near the ceiling?? Placed near corners??
I bring this up because I have a pair of 4412's and they did not start to sound good (propagate a nice chest pounding bass) until I mounted them on a wall close to the ceiling on shelves. Hard work finding studs, lifting them, etc,etc. :tears:
How are you folks using these speakers?
Thanks
Fred
OK folks
I have a pair of 4311B's and am considering going through the rigors of re-capping the xovers. This has been a very interesting thread in deed. THe links and the hard work of others, will make this a successful project.
I was wondering about speaker placement for these guys?? Are they better on the floor?? Raised up on small stands?? Mounted on the wall on shelves near the ceiling?? Placed near corners??
I bring this up because I have a pair of 4412's and they did not start to sound good (propagate a nice chest pounding bass) until I mounted them on a wall close to the ceiling on shelves. Hard work finding studs, lifting them, etc,etc. :tears:
How are you folks using these speakers?
Thanks
Fred
brockero
New Member
do it!
I have been living with my "improved original" recapped 4311wx speakers for a few months now and can happily say they are a lot of fun to listen to. And they truly are a studio monitor in the sense that all the aspects of the recording will come through - good and bad. Unlike most hi-fi speakers that will "help" a poor recording these will do them no favors. But the good recordings sound great! I have them powered by a Pioneer SX-828 (50 watts per channel) and had a pair of DCM TimeFrame 600's that I was really enjoying. But these are in a different class and can really move some air when desired.
I do not find the open port to be too woofy and prefer to leave them as they were designed. And although I have not heard, I would NOT recommend the "bright" recapping option. They are already a bit "forward" sounding and I have the presence knob rolled back to compensate after many listens. I can't imagine you would want them any brighter. Stands and placement are also very important. You really need to get these off the floor to appreciate them.
Thanks very much to all the folks who put this thread together! :thmbsp:
I have been living with my "improved original" recapped 4311wx speakers for a few months now and can happily say they are a lot of fun to listen to. And they truly are a studio monitor in the sense that all the aspects of the recording will come through - good and bad. Unlike most hi-fi speakers that will "help" a poor recording these will do them no favors. But the good recordings sound great! I have them powered by a Pioneer SX-828 (50 watts per channel) and had a pair of DCM TimeFrame 600's that I was really enjoying. But these are in a different class and can really move some air when desired.
I do not find the open port to be too woofy and prefer to leave them as they were designed. And although I have not heard, I would NOT recommend the "bright" recapping option. They are already a bit "forward" sounding and I have the presence knob rolled back to compensate after many listens. I can't imagine you would want them any brighter. Stands and placement are also very important. You really need to get these off the floor to appreciate them.
Thanks very much to all the folks who put this thread together! :thmbsp:
eclein
Retired Drummer
Hey guys..not sure if anyone reads this thread anymore but I just got some 4311B's and also some 4312A's and I want to redo the Xovers as noted earlier in this thread. I think both models have similar Xovers as the model# is the same except for a letter designation at the end which I think really only refers to the orientation of the Xover in the cabinets.
So do I do the 4312A's or 4311B's???
My thought is do the 4311B's and if successful then go for the big dog...thoughts??
Thanks
Ed
So do I do the 4312A's or 4311B's???
My thought is do the 4311B's and if successful then go for the big dog...thoughts??
Thanks
Ed
Groomlakearea51
New Member
Outstanding Thread!!! Exactly what I needed to proceed on a pair of 4312A's that I let go about 8 years ago and just got back from the person to whom I gave them.
All said, I will also re-do the cabinets with new veneer, etc. as there's a few, shall we say, "dings"...
I will probably use Sonicaps (I'm very familiar with those), and replace the L-pads with the referenced PE 15 watt versions. I am tempted to remove the crossover itself from the L-pad square and mount it separately on the floor for easy access later if I wish to change values, etc.
While it's debatable I suppose, I like the 0350TI tweeter, but I like the older LE25-2 tweeter on my other pair of "plain jane" 4312's. Smoother, I think (and I'm getting older and can't hear the likely improved 035 response.... I am thinking of swapping out the 35's for the 25's and using the 4312 crossover schematic for the 4312A rebuild.
Any thoughts? Or just leave it alone, do the caps, the cabs, the grills and be happy?
All said, I will also re-do the cabinets with new veneer, etc. as there's a few, shall we say, "dings"...
I will probably use Sonicaps (I'm very familiar with those), and replace the L-pads with the referenced PE 15 watt versions. I am tempted to remove the crossover itself from the L-pad square and mount it separately on the floor for easy access later if I wish to change values, etc.
While it's debatable I suppose, I like the 0350TI tweeter, but I like the older LE25-2 tweeter on my other pair of "plain jane" 4312's. Smoother, I think (and I'm getting older and can't hear the likely improved 035 response.... I am thinking of swapping out the 35's for the 25's and using the 4312 crossover schematic for the 4312A rebuild.
Any thoughts? Or just leave it alone, do the caps, the cabs, the grills and be happy?
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Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
OK, I just joined this forum and did so mainly to post in this thread. I'm a long-time old-school JBL enthusiast and I just found a truly thrashed pair of walnut 4311s for $25. Five out of six drivers are damaged; one woofer is OK. The tweeters are toast. One alnico midrange and one woofer has a torn cone, and the other mid is missing. One port fell out and so did one of the midrange sub enclosures. A mouse was living in one cabinet and died in there.
The cabinets are so beat there's no good way to make them like new again, plus I'm tired of walnut veneer. I want to make these my garage speakers and they will never be original again, so why not have some cheap fun? So here's my plan.
I've ordered up a pair of clean LE5-5 midranges, apparently from some L65 Jubals.
I also found a pair of 033 dome tweeters.
And I found a replacement matching 2213 (IIRC) woofer.
The grilles are long gone. I removed the metal labels cleanly (for later replacement) and I'm filling and sanding the cabinets; I'm going to paint them gloss candy-apple red, with no grilles.
I'm going to throw the dice and go with the caps that Brainwashed suggest here, wired as he suggests. I think the L-pads are OK; I'm just going to clean them up with some tuner spray.
The back terminal panels are missing so I'm going to put MDF boards in their place, inset with binding post connectors.
Any thoughts ... or verbal abuse?
This is a great thread, but I wish the cap recommendations were more specific as to which caps are for the mids and which are for the tweeters. I'm just going to copy Brainwashed's photo's wiring on that.
Thanks, all, for the great forum and ideas!
Regards,
Eric
The cabinets are so beat there's no good way to make them like new again, plus I'm tired of walnut veneer. I want to make these my garage speakers and they will never be original again, so why not have some cheap fun? So here's my plan.
I've ordered up a pair of clean LE5-5 midranges, apparently from some L65 Jubals.
I also found a pair of 033 dome tweeters.
And I found a replacement matching 2213 (IIRC) woofer.
The grilles are long gone. I removed the metal labels cleanly (for later replacement) and I'm filling and sanding the cabinets; I'm going to paint them gloss candy-apple red, with no grilles.
I'm going to throw the dice and go with the caps that Brainwashed suggest here, wired as he suggests. I think the L-pads are OK; I'm just going to clean them up with some tuner spray.
The back terminal panels are missing so I'm going to put MDF boards in their place, inset with binding post connectors.
Any thoughts ... or verbal abuse?
This is a great thread, but I wish the cap recommendations were more specific as to which caps are for the mids and which are for the tweeters. I'm just going to copy Brainwashed's photo's wiring on that.
Thanks, all, for the great forum and ideas!
Regards,
Eric
Fred Sanford
Addicted Member
OK, I just joined this forum and did so mainly to post in this thread. I'm a long-time old-school JBL enthusiast and I just found a truly thrashed pair of walnut 4311s for $25. Five out of six drivers are damaged; one woofer is OK. The tweeters are toast. One alnico midrange and one woofer has a torn cone, and the other mid is missing. One port fell out and so did one of the midrange sub enclosures. A mouse was living in one cabinet and died in there.
The cabinets are so beat there's no good way to make them like new again, plus I'm tired of walnut veneer. I want to make these my garage speakers and they will never be original again, so why not have some cheap fun? So here's my plan.
I've ordered up a pair of clean LE5-5 midranges, apparently from some L65 Jubals.
I also found a pair of 033 dome tweeters.
And I found a replacement matching 2213 (IIRC) woofer.
The grilles are long gone. I removed the metal labels cleanly (for later replacement) and I'm filling and sanding the cabinets; I'm going to paint them gloss candy-apple red, with no grilles.
I'm going to throw the dice and go with the caps that Brainwashed suggest here, wired as he suggests. I think the L-pads are OK; I'm just going to clean them up with some tuner spray.
The back terminal panels are missing so I'm going to put MDF boards in their place, inset with binding post connectors.
Any thoughts ... or verbal abuse?
This is a great thread, but I wish the cap recommendations were more specific as to which caps are for the mids and which are for the tweeters. I'm just going to copy Brainwashed's photo's wiring on that.
Thanks, all, for the great forum and ideas!
Regards,
Eric
You might want to start your own thread on these to get more replies, but my main suggestion is that the 033s are quite different from the OEM tweeters, you may have to change the crossover to get the best out of them.
je
Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
Thanks, Zilch! I did see that (and saved it to my hard drive), but I still wasn't clear on which of the replacement caps to put into which circuit. But Brainwashed's photo is pretty clear ...
I understand that this still lets all three drivers roll off naturally at their top ends, right? How well do you think the 033 will work in this system?
Thanks, JE. I dunno; it seems like the stock crossovers are so basic, all they do is attenuate some frequencies below the range of the drivers. JBL seems to say that the dome tweeters are drop-ins for the earlier models:
http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-052
But I guess I could go with the original tweeters; I'd rather do that than try to redesign the crossovers ... Just hate to drop $150 on a nice pair on eBay.
But maybe I should start a new thread, with photos.
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Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
Thanks for enabling my cheapness, Zilch! My three-bay garage has a concrete floor with the worst possible acoustics. And I bought the 033s for $9.99 on eBay! 
I had 033s in some L100s once, and they seemed to sound pretty good, but again, it was in my garage so it's hard to say.
I had 033s in some L100s once, and they seemed to sound pretty good, but again, it was in my garage so it's hard to say.
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Fred Sanford
Addicted Member
Thanks, Zilch! I did see that (and saved it to my hard drive), but I still wasn't clear on which of the replacement caps to put into which circuit. But Brainwashed's photo is pretty clear ...
I understand that this still lets all three drivers roll off naturally at their top ends, right? How well do you think the 033 will work in this system?
Thanks, JE. I dunno; it seems like the stock crossovers are so basic, all they do is attenuate some frequencies below the range of the drivers. JBL seems to say that the dome tweeters are drop-ins for the earlier models:
http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-052
But I guess I could go with the original tweeters; I'd rather do that than try to redesign the crossovers ... Just hate to drop $150 on a nice pair on eBay.
But maybe I should start a new thread, with photos.
JBL recommends the 035Ti as a replacement, with a crossover + cabinet mod, I think. I'm not saying it's necessary, just "if you want to get the best out of them"...I really like the 033s, and think you got a steal for $10 if they're intact & original. Not sure how they're going to fit with the 4311's cabinet, though.
je
Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
Thanks, JE. One of the 033s is intact but the other is dented, and the shipping was a slightly absurd $19. But I have another nice pair so I'm going to cherry-pick the best two and maybe use the others in my L40s after "fixing" the dented one.
I recall that the last time I tried it, the 033 fit just fine into the LE25 baffle hole on my L100s. The screw holes are different (three holes instead of four) but since I'm painting and patching the 4311 cabinets anyway, that's OK.
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Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
So the 033 magnets are too big for the baffle openings (no idea how I fit them into my L100s years ago?), so I'm going to hunt down some LE25s or LE 26s, I guess. I'll post a new thread on the 4311s when I re-do them. (Still sanding and filling them now, and collecting parts for the rebuild.)
Mister Tawny
Crazed afficianado
I am still looking for a good picture on which connections to solder. The one pic is really muddled as to what goes where. I have an idea, but a picture is worth 1000 words (or a schematic). Any help on the wiring of the new caps is highly appreciated.