JVC QL-?? owners thread
- Thread starter BillWojo
- Start date
desertrat748
Super Member
Help! JVC QL-A7 tone arm, counter weight.
Help! JVC QL-A7 tone arm, counter weight.
All problems fixed. Lift epoxied with JB weld. Can’t tell it’s been redone. Counter weight rubber shimmed. Working perfectly now. Running Nagaoka MP-20 off last purchased table. Sounds better than it probably should. I would like to thank you all for the help and replies. Makes me feel...
audiokarma.org
That’s the title if you do a search. Edit: I think I pasted up the link but if not.
But it is on the second page post number 22. Took some pictures and tried to show what is what.
Basically the QL A7 is different w counter weight from the QL 7 (no automatic lift at end of the record).
So it is not really worth it to disassemble the entire tonearm, unsoldering the wires, removing the wires and tonearm assembly to get the counter weight and tone arm stub apart. Furthermore the stub is free floating splined and has the factory rubber inserted into the tonearm hub assembly. It would be very difficult to replace correctly and if you don’t, it will no longer be free floating.
So, I just wanted to cut out the failing rubber support and replace it with some new rubber. It’s posted up w pics. Lasted a year so far and no more sagging. It’s not factory perfect but it still works great and looks 100 times better than before.
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desertrat748
Super Member
I copied the link and put it on my earlier post. Just click on the blue box.
desertrat748
Super Member
Basically you have to have a large enough padded working space, I used large towels. Remove the dust cover, remove the platter and place on the padded area. Remove headshell and pull off counter weight. Lock tonearm down with some painters tape. Remove old rubber from around the tailpiece. Don’t try and remove the rubber that goes inside bearing housing that’s surrounding splines.
I used a small scalpel and dental picks. Or a sharp razor knife would work well. Once removed you can see how it free floats. I measured the width needed for new rubber. Used the rubber “grommet” pictured in my linked post. Trimmed it down with sharp knife (too hard for my scalpel) and then cut a vertical slit on one half so I could fit it around the shaft.
I wish I had taken pics of how I trimmed it but too late now.
Fitted around the shaft and it was a very tight fit and strong enough to support counter weight without sagging. I don’t think you need the exact same rubber washer to work, just something that has a ~ 5mm hole through the center (maybe drill out yourself) and about 6mm thick to support the counter weight w/o sagging.
Hope this helps.
I used a small scalpel and dental picks. Or a sharp razor knife would work well. Once removed you can see how it free floats. I measured the width needed for new rubber. Used the rubber “grommet” pictured in my linked post. Trimmed it down with sharp knife (too hard for my scalpel) and then cut a vertical slit on one half so I could fit it around the shaft.
I wish I had taken pics of how I trimmed it but too late now.
Fitted around the shaft and it was a very tight fit and strong enough to support counter weight without sagging. I don’t think you need the exact same rubber washer to work, just something that has a ~ 5mm hole through the center (maybe drill out yourself) and about 6mm thick to support the counter weight w/o sagging.
Hope this helps.
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desertrat748
Super Member
More importantly you will be happy with the results and performance. I have just the slightest bit of compression with the new rubber. Feels like it dampens quite well.
desertrat748
Super Member
Mine got to the point where it would hit the base and I couldn’t adjust it enough for most carts. I attempted to take the tone arm off and get access for proper removal of the tailpiece, but the tonearm wires are very thin and delicate. Wasn’t worth all the hassle and risk.
desertrat748
Super Member
All of it between the bearing housing and the tonearm tailpiece. You can see it on the photos in the help link. This is one of those.
It shows how there wasn’t anything left over that splined shaft. Not that the tailpiece is rotated over 180 degrees showing the set screw. I thought it was the way to get it off but apparently it’s not. You shouldn’t mess with it as it is really on there tight.
desertrat748
Super Member
PS, get some cheap dental tools from local hardware store or maybe automotive store, or eBay.
Snuck
Active Member
Those plinths looks nice but you have to be careful as they may let the turntable get damage.
The best plinths possible are the original ones as they compensate vibrations, hence, extending the life of the parts.
Those plinths were also designed to be modified, especially at their feet, by custom shop. I am trying to dig in this custom shop but informations are very rare. I shall upload you more catalogs however, I think.
I am almost back in the audio after a very busy time.
Does anyone knows where to find a 14" master lacquer disk (empty ! nothing on it, just the plane simple master lacquer disk)?
Soon, Il'l try the counter weight repairs for my 7045.
The best plinths possible are the original ones as they compensate vibrations, hence, extending the life of the parts.
Those plinths were also designed to be modified, especially at their feet, by custom shop. I am trying to dig in this custom shop but informations are very rare. I shall upload you more catalogs however, I think.
I am almost back in the audio after a very busy time.
Does anyone knows where to find a 14" master lacquer disk (empty ! nothing on it, just the plane simple master lacquer disk)?
Soon, Il'l try the counter weight repairs for my 7045.
Snuck
Active Member
It was an official Victor department, specialy tailored with special phone number for luxuous clients. As such, it is even harder to get informations over it.
It was over the laboratory range actually and they changed twice its name apparently (unless the other name was another department). The main issue is that none of the products ever had Victor marking over them.
The 14" master lacquer disk I wish to find was purposed by this service as the definite mat for TT-101 and all turntables. It seems the goal was to have crystal then this 14" over it, making the TT-101 not so lighweight platter as we thought it was.
They were relying hard on carbon (not carbon fiber, actual carbon) for others parts. Some products used and sold today such as the conductivity black goo was actually designed by Victor (for much much cheaper).
You can upgrade the plinth by having better feet, they were making some for it. Otherwhise, this plinth is perfect.
There were others companies making custom copies of the CL-P plinths with different materials but they have apparently no relation with Victor custom shop.
It was over the laboratory range actually and they changed twice its name apparently (unless the other name was another department). The main issue is that none of the products ever had Victor marking over them.
The 14" master lacquer disk I wish to find was purposed by this service as the definite mat for TT-101 and all turntables. It seems the goal was to have crystal then this 14" over it, making the TT-101 not so lighweight platter as we thought it was.
They were relying hard on carbon (not carbon fiber, actual carbon) for others parts. Some products used and sold today such as the conductivity black goo was actually designed by Victor (for much much cheaper).
You can upgrade the plinth by having better feet, they were making some for it. Otherwhise, this plinth is perfect.
There were others companies making custom copies of the CL-P plinths with different materials but they have apparently no relation with Victor custom shop.
desertrat748
Super Member
Nice! Stanton is also nice! They do perform and fly under the radar!