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Klipsch Modifications

This is what I did to make sure my edges and corners were sealed like 1 solid chunk of wood but even stronger.
Crazy glue and baking soda sprinkled over it in many layers then ground down. I finished mine in mirror black lacquer so this was a necessary step. This really helps on anything that has is MDF and has some soft edges due to water damage or abuse.
The edge will become very hard again.

I had a buffet fall off a table while I was polishing a cabinet, it hit the ground and bounced up hitting the edge hard on the peak and it chipped the paint off but left no dent. I still had to start over since there's no way to fix it without it standing out like crazy.
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This is what I did to make sure my edges and corners were sealed like 1 solid chunk of wood but even stronger.
Crazy glue and baking soda sprinkled over it in many layers then ground down. I finished mine in mirror black lacquer so this was a necessary step. This really helps on anything that has is MDF and has some soft edges due to water damage or abuse.
The edge will become very hard again.

I had a buffet fall off a table while I was polishing a cabinet, it hit the ground and bounced up hitting the edge hard on the peak and it chipped the paint off but left no dent. I still had to start over since there's no way to fix it without it standing out like crazy.
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Bondo works great in that application as well.
 
Very interesting. Gutsy move, like Chris Askew's, ay?

That's right Claude, very much following ChrisA and with a lot of generous advice from him. For example, on his advice those holes are 2" rather than the 2.25" he used and therefore spaced a bit further apart to achieve the 10 to1 compression ratio with my chosen Eminence Delta 15 8ohm woofers. So far, changes from Chris' design have been minimal but perhaps significant in the end.

The double layer of BB stiffening the wider adjacent sides of the horn provide a solid mounting point for the woofer pads. I'm using BB rather than the mdf he used for the woofer mounting pads which while probably not stiffer, take the screws more solidly and I hope allow me to take apart and reassemble solidly and repeatedly.

Also, I'm hoping cutting out a "moat" in the woofer pad for cone travel will eliminate the contact I heard in my testing even at low power 20-40hz. I could install a ring to space the woofer a bit away from the pad I guess but not sure what the sonic consequences would be for the cone/port interface
 
I could install a ring to space the woofer a bit away from the pad I guess but not sure what the sonic consequences would be for the cone/port interface
It can probably be modeled, as the air volume before the "throat" will be higher. Also not sure about what effect it will have. I have owned 12.5 pairs of Danley Unity Aperture and Synergy Horns, now down to 3 SH and 4 USA's.

Much respect for ChrisA's R&D in this area. He even purchased a single Danley SH-50 to study. Now THAT is committment!!
 
It can probably be modeled, as the air volume before the "throat" will be higher. Also not sure about what effect it will have. I have owned 12.5 pairs of Danley Unity Aperture and Synergy Horns, now down to 3 SH and 4 USA's.

Much respect for ChrisA's R&D in this area. He even purchased a single Danley SH-50 to study. Now THAT is committment!!

Yes, much respect to Chris and to you! I've been following you on the Klipsch forum for years as Delicious2 and have learned and benefitted hugely. Thank-you
 
I find running the 45 degree chamfer router bit deeper on several passes helps me stay on track when free-handing this contouring/"frustumizing" of the ports with a sanding disk on my drill and a detail sander.
 
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initial testing was successful

Only about 2 inch clearance with the BMS driver. So I built a cap with about 3 inches additional clearance case I want to use a deeper CD like my TAD4002s.
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she’s a big girl and heavy. The FH1 is a convenient stand and once I get her tuned in with the Xilica 4080 it’ll be interesting to compare the Full MEH sound vs CD top and FH 1 bottom
 
Full Stuffing with Vinyl cover.jpg K402 MEH no stuffing vs full stuffing.JPG

The fully stuffed sweep in green. Interesting that much thick stuffing even to the point of blocking the rear woofer voicecoil vents doesn't make more of a difference in FR.
 
Detail of my stiffening double layer of plywood K402 MEH Deliberate Gap.jpg epoxied to the adjacent horn sides is that I deliberately left a gap between them and the woofer mounting plates. The 6 large screws that hold each mounting plate in place then really pull the plate tight against the side of the horn/entry ports. This had the unintended consequence of slightly warping the mounting plates but not so much that the woofer couldn't be sealed against it.
 
I have some K 33s arriving Friday from speaker exchange. I’ll try those in the second speaker to see how they compare to the eminence deltas. The biggest difference will probably be their 4 ohm rating vs the Eminence 8ohm. But I’ll measure them and see if they dig a little deeper
 
That is fascinating: is there a link somewhere that explains how these MEH designs work? Kind of baffling how a 15" speaker firing through those little holes actually works. No pun intended.

Are the soundwaves supposed to transmit through the sides of the horn as vibrations, almost like a second speaker cone?

Pretty wild!
 
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