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Luxman L580(58a) or R-117

CohibaJoe

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I have a itch to spend some $$'s...

Looking at a Luxman L580(58a) or R-117...I do have a R-117 and was going to get a 2nd one...but a L580(58a) has come up.

Your thoughts...:scratch2:
 
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I have the L-580, which I bought new in Japan back in the day. I will never sell it. Sounds like nothing else I've ever heard; it's distinctive. It's also a monster; huge, heavy, intimidating.
 
I have the L-580, which I bought new in Japan back in the day. I will never sell it. Sounds like nothing else I've ever heard; it's distinctive. It's also a monster; huge, heavy, intimidating.

I am going for the L-580. The guy what's 5Clams for the L-580 (it's been fully recapped)..not sure if this is a good price?

I am also going to pickup a Sansui AU-999 that I have been eyeing.
 
I am going for the L-580. The guy what's 5Clams for the L-580 (it's been fully recapped)..not sure if this is a good price?

I am also going to pickup a Sansui AU-999 that I have been eyeing.

I do not know what a good price would be; but I recall paying something like $350 in Japan (actually Okinawa) in 1983. So whatever inflation would turn 1983 dollars into today, plus the advantage (if any) of being able to buy it in Japan. I have a parts unit as well; I bought it on eBay a bunch of years ago and I recall paying 200~300, something like that. It arrived smashed, seller didn't pack it well. The thing weighs a ton and the huge transformer on the right hand side makes it lopsided; there is no easy way to carry the thing, it's more of a stagger when I move mine. Recapped would certain sound like a good thing to me, but I guess it depends on how well it was done. A reputable repair shop butchered mine, even causing some PC board lifting at one point (hence the parts unit).

You might say I'm a Luxman fan. Particularly of integrated amps from the same series...sad.


Stack O' Luxman by Wigwam Jones, on Flickr
 
I do not know what a good price would be; but I recall paying something like $350 in Japan (actually Okinawa) in 1983. So whatever inflation would turn 1983 dollars into today, plus the advantage (if any) of being able to buy it in Japan. I have a parts unit as well; I bought it on eBay a bunch of years ago and I recall paying 200~300, something like that. It arrived smashed, seller didn't pack it well. The thing weighs a ton and the huge transformer on the right hand side makes it lopsided; there is no easy way to carry the thing, it's more of a stagger when I move mine. Recapped would certain sound like a good thing to me, but I guess it depends on how well it was done. A reputable repair shop butchered mine, even causing some PC board lifting at one point (hence the parts unit).

You might say I'm a Luxman fan. Particularly of integrated amps from the same series...sad.


Stack O' Luxman by Wigwam Jones, on Flickr

Nice setup...That's why I have requested some pictures of the inside for the L-580..Since I recap myself I would like to make sure this was not butchered. I am recapping a L-450...Also have a R-117 for my Main rig..I too Love the Lux sound.
 
The 117 came out in Luxman's darkest days. When Alpine had the very highest influence on their gear. It may sound good, but would perhaps not reflect the typical Luxman sound that the 580 has. I however would choose the 580, even if it sounded worse, for its looks alone.
 
The R-117 is one of the best sounding receivers ever made according to the folks that have expressed an opinion on different sites. I'd love to have one.

The L-580 runs very hot and should have a fan to keep the board from getting charred. The preamp section does not put out enough power to drive many amps but it does a great job with its own power amp. I tried this when I auditioned a MCCormack DNA-1 and could not drive it fully with the preamp output of my L-580.

The L-580 is the first line of gear from Lux after the R-10xx series and the L-100, L-85V and L-80 integrated amps that were a cut above everything else in their respective classes. This newer line was the first to have some 'Americanization' of the units, a bit less build quality but that did not hurt the sound quality. The L-100/L-110 the amp replaced by the L-580 had a veneered cabinet, the L-580, a vinyl wrap with some of the best looking vinyl to wrap home electronics. The addition of the Duo-ß circuitry was the electrical upgrade for this line and since they sound good, fine.

I would be very thorough in evaluation of a recapped unit at the going rate for a recapped unit. If it is in good condition it is a fine amp.
 
Not sure where my (not working) 1979(?) L-55A fits into the pantheon. Only one I've seen with deep engraved cursive script on the thick faceplate. No LEDs but has the blue light circle mute.

Has 8 of those funky sideways flip switches of the C-5000 era. And yes they are arranged like Tetris blocks :tongue:

DC, high bandwidth and biased high too -- 400mA according to the classy color Japanese booklet-manual. Not sure about the raised shelf board behind the controls. No heat pipes; herringbone fins. Phono MM + MC I + MCII phono and tone bypass. Controls feel substantial and solid (but not as heavy as the big R-1050/70 center flywheels).

Was a statement piece. Believe it's real wood veneer too--looks like it--scratches look like teak wood not vinyl rosewood. Finally the owners' registration card has a cool purple and green stamp. Should I mail it? :LOL:

images


This one from the web shows 4-split top vents. Mine has a single large top vent.

.
 
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Adding Sansui AU-999

Looking over some threads say the L-580 runs very warm to hot...

I am dropping the R-117 (since I have one, was planning a 2nd)...Going to add the Sansui AU-999.
 
I do have both of them and each has its own sound signature. Only problem with the R-117 is mediocre IC preamp stage and use of electronic switches for the input selector, but it has beefy power amplifier. If you can use external discrete preamp this receiver shines well.

On the other hand L-580 is good in every respect, but it has the pre-driver transistors that runs very hot. They really need heat sinks otherwise they go out of spec after sometime and even go bad. In my L-580, I have replaced the pre-driver transistors with matched one and had the heat sinks installed. Now it works great. I enjoy both of them.

Thanks,
Vint Rao
 
My .02

I would put a vote in for the R117. I have collected 5 over the years, along with some other very nice separates audio gear.
While I do listen to the other gear I find that the R117 coupled with a Luxman TP117, recapped with Elna Silmic IIs , is probably the best top to bottom front to back sound you will hear without going deep, and I mean real deep, into your wallet.
Most people don’t know how good the amp section on this unit is because they use the internal pre exclusively. I am currently in process of recapping an R117 to see if that improves the pre performance. I may also redo the op-amps if I get decent audio improvement with the recap.
My advice would be go with the R117 and a good external pre. You will probably never find something that sounds better for any sane amount of cash. Providing that you have good source material, good players, and of course good speakers.
 
I would put a vote in for the R117. I have collected 5 over the years, along with some other very nice separates audio gear.
While I do listen to the other gear I find that the R117 coupled with a Luxman TP117, recapped with Elna Silmic IIs , is probably the best top to bottom front to back sound you will hear without going deep, and I mean real deep, into your wallet.
Most people don’t know how good the amp section on this unit is because they use the internal pre exclusively. I am currently in process of recapping an R117 to see if that improves the pre performance. I may also redo the op-amps if I get decent audio improvement with the recap.
My advice would be go with the R117 and a good external pre. You will probably never find something that sounds better for any sane amount of cash. Providing that you have good source material, good players, and of course good speakers.

Well I did pick-up a R-117 last fall..What I hear and asked the L-580 runs HOT..I did get a L-450 and recapped with Nichicon FG and Big Cans Nichicon KG...It sounds Sweet...I agree and do use Elna Silmic II and these are FANTASTIC...along with Nichicon FG/KZ/KG.

I will at a point do a recap to the R-117.
 
Clarification

LOL, sorry I was unclear. I currently have 5. Three bought working, one which has since stopped. I've been meaning to get to that one to fix it. One I bought non-working and have repaired L and R channel on the amp, replaced a switch/selector IC in the pre section, and hard wired a tone defeat switch circuit into defeat mode to get it working again. That is the one that is going to be recapped. The power supply has already been redone with Elnas and I have been testing it for a week now. I will start on the pre board this weekend. And the last is my pride and joy a NIB and never plugged in unit I am saving, for what I haven't figured out yet.
 
Luxman R-117

My R-117 was recapped completely by Tom Ishimoto of Northside Electronics in the L.A. area.......It was certainly worth sending it from Ga. to him as he did a wonderful job......Has a most impressive soundstage........Proud to have a R-117......
 
LOL, sorry I was unclear. I currently have 5. Three bought working, one which has since stopped. I've been meaning to get to that one to fix it. One I bought non-working and have repaired L and R channel on the amp, replaced a switch/selector IC in the pre section, and hard wired a tone defeat switch circuit into defeat mode to get it working again. That is the one that is going to be recapped. The power supply has already been redone with Elnas and I have been testing it for a week now. I will start on the pre board this weekend. And the last is my pride and joy a NIB and never plugged in unit I am saving, for what I haven't figured out yet.

As cool as the new one is, keep in mind that having sat in the box, it likely needs a recapping too.
 
I hear you

As cool as the new one is, keep in mind that having sat in the box, it likely needs a recapping too.

I know Bigerik, that unfortunately is inevitable. But I would love to hear it in it's original pristine new form before doing so, if only for a few sessions. The issue is as I see it caps will go south in the box and fully AC power may rob me of my chance. Therefore I would not even expose it to full AC to start. As I understand it caps dry out, but can be brought back with gently increasing controlled voltage application. I have been meaning to get a variable power supply to power it and some of my other gear that has been sitting idle in boxes for a while.

Has anyone ever come accross the proper procedure, or guidlines as it were, of bringing long dormant electronics back on line?

Anyway I am continuing my recap today. I got the selector and cpu boards almost done. I am slow and methodical and in no hurry as I get to listen to an R117 with the ITunes radio Drone Zone feeding through Magnepan MG I Improved speakers in my workshop as I solder. Tough work, but somebody has to do it. :music:
 
I was just talking to my local tech about scenarios just like yours the other day, oddly enough. His feeling is that equipment that has been sitting in a box unused starts to become suspect after 5 years, gets bad after 10, and after 20 is in need of a full recap. He said he has seen a couple of 20 year old pieces that have actually gone up in smoke, usually after about an hour of use. The other thing to keep in mind is with it being the way it is, even with the original components in place, it will sound nothing like it was designed to. Everything will be so far out of spec.
Just wanted to pass on what I heard for your safety and the safety of your gear.
 
I was just talking to my local tech about scenarios just like yours the other day, oddly enough. His feeling is that equipment that has been sitting in a box unused starts to become suspect after 5 years, gets bad after 10, and after 20 is in need of a full recap. He said he has seen a couple of 20 year old pieces that have actually gone up in smoke, usually after about an hour of use. The other thing to keep in mind is with it being the way it is, even with the original components in place, it will sound nothing like it was designed to. Everything will be so far out of spec.
Just wanted to pass on what I heard for your safety and the safety of your gear.

I have good number of vintage pieces and I agree with what you and your tech are saying. I have had things go poof while playing just because the parts just got too old, not because the unit was being pushed hard. For example, a Luxman R117 that was in beautiful condition and that sounded wonderful simply blew it's AC line fuse, due to what I haven't looked into yet, and just went silent. I just set it aside and moved another into it's place waiting for when I had the time to look it over. Similar thing with a B&O 5500 series CD player. It plays great 99.9% of the time, then on occasion when in the first few minutes of playing it plays at a reduced and slightly distorted volume. But within a minute or two returns to normal and with remains so for days or weeks. Some component is get near the end of its' life, but not quite ready to call it quits.

In the R117 that I am recapping currently the amp section sounded great with an external pre but sounded just OK when using the internal pre. I just finished recapping the input selector board, SimicIIs and Nichicon films, and it improved the sound, dramatically. It verifies the issues you and your tech raised.

The joys of vintage gear.
 
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