I will try to get pics but they are in very rough condition... if you even touch the woofer it will tear... not sure what would cause them to be that fragile.
Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!
- Thread starter Raddek
- Start date
I will try to get pics but they are in very rough condition... if you even touch the woofer it will tear... not sure what would cause them to be that fragile.
I was just looking at those the other day... need to save a few more dollars and I will be picking up a pair.
Sasquatch2
Active Member
vtw8lftr....from your description it sounds like you are referring to the foams and not the cones of the driver. I have never seen cones disintegrate on touching but I have experienced foams doing just that. :scratch2:
HomeBody
Passion not Critisism
Sound Wisdom...!!!!
HomeBody
Passion not Critisism
For those of us that might have lost some sensitivity over the years, lemme add just a quick DIY for the subscribers of this great thread...
A quick and dirty trick for the MidRange's mild harness can be tamed very pleasantly & easily. Go to your dresser, find an old pair of flannel pajamas...be sure you can see thru them when you hold them up to a sunlit window.
Cut a two inch square-
Remove the MR driver assembly from the horn.
Place the flannel over the bulleted disperser....secure snugly w/a rubber band.
Replace driver assembly. Simple to do, less intrusive...simple to undo...simple to alter...
For those w/better hearing in the mid ranges, use the flannel as Video described in the section regarding the felt pads.
I bought a package of Felt pads at Dollar General. Quarter-sized, .200" in height.
After I installed them, my ears missed some of the rash peaks Video pointed out in his testings.
For my enjoyment, those rash peaks are part of the airiness/LIVE! presence of the Machs. But the rash is there, and the simple employment of a stretched piece of old flannel did the trick for my ears to 'THE TEE'. Snare drums aren't as bright as before, but retain alittle rash undertone and the snare's lower end is evident now. The idea came about as I recalled P.Klipsch would tame some of his MRs and Tweeters by simply using a denser speaker cloth...(less transparent, jadded threading)
PS: Keep In Mind that I have not replaced the caps as per Video's presentation. This flannel addition is merely a matter of a quick fix for those who find the stock Machs are a tad rash from the horns. I'm certainly not trying to slander Video's work, whatsoever.
A quick and dirty trick for the MidRange's mild harness can be tamed very pleasantly & easily. Go to your dresser, find an old pair of flannel pajamas...be sure you can see thru them when you hold them up to a sunlit window.
Cut a two inch square-
Remove the MR driver assembly from the horn.
Place the flannel over the bulleted disperser....secure snugly w/a rubber band.
Replace driver assembly. Simple to do, less intrusive...simple to undo...simple to alter...
For those w/better hearing in the mid ranges, use the flannel as Video described in the section regarding the felt pads.
I bought a package of Felt pads at Dollar General. Quarter-sized, .200" in height.
After I installed them, my ears missed some of the rash peaks Video pointed out in his testings.
For my enjoyment, those rash peaks are part of the airiness/LIVE! presence of the Machs. But the rash is there, and the simple employment of a stretched piece of old flannel did the trick for my ears to 'THE TEE'. Snare drums aren't as bright as before, but retain alittle rash undertone and the snare's lower end is evident now. The idea came about as I recalled P.Klipsch would tame some of his MRs and Tweeters by simply using a denser speaker cloth...(less transparent, jadded threading)
PS: Keep In Mind that I have not replaced the caps as per Video's presentation. This flannel addition is merely a matter of a quick fix for those who find the stock Machs are a tad rash from the horns. I'm certainly not trying to slander Video's work, whatsoever.
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Buttercup
Well-Known Member
I opened my Mach I 4024a today and while trying to remove the tweeter I cracked the plastic mounting plate.
The front of the speaker has a vinyl sheet on top of the particle board and the plastic adheres to it... I was as careful as I could be, but it was stuck pretty tight and the plastic has become a bit brittle.
I've removed all the nuts from the rear of the mid and it too is stuck to the vinyl... does anyone have a tip on removing these without cracking the plastic?
The front of the speaker has a vinyl sheet on top of the particle board and the plastic adheres to it... I was as careful as I could be, but it was stuck pretty tight and the plastic has become a bit brittle.
I've removed all the nuts from the rear of the mid and it too is stuck to the vinyl... does anyone have a tip on removing these without cracking the plastic?
PS: Keep In Mind that I have not replaced the caps as per Video's presentation. This flannel addition is merely a matter of a quick fix for those who find the stock Machs are a tad rash from the horns.
I just recapped my mach,s(4024a,s) and the sound really improved.....bass and mid sound much better(had to really put some power to them to get good bass and mids were a tad harsh)but now i put less power to get the bass i like
I just recapped my mach,s(4024a,s) and the sound really improved.....bass and mid sound much better(had to really put some power to them to get good bass and mids were a tad harsh)but now i put less power to get the bass i like
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videolady201
AK Member-Design Engineer
Plastic Tweeter Plate Removal
The best way is to remove all screws on the L-Pad/Tweeter plate, then turn the volume up on that speaker with some bass heavy music. Turn up the volume slowly until the plate pops loose. The pressure from the woofer is evenly distributed across the plate and is less likely to crack it. It should not take much volume to pop it off. As for the midhorn, Leave the nuts off and leave the driver on the midrange horn for weight. Just let the unit set with the weight of driver on the horn for a while and it should slowly turn loose. Again playing music with strong bass may help.:scratch2:
The best way is to remove all screws on the L-Pad/Tweeter plate, then turn the volume up on that speaker with some bass heavy music. Turn up the volume slowly until the plate pops loose. The pressure from the woofer is evenly distributed across the plate and is less likely to crack it. It should not take much volume to pop it off. As for the midhorn, Leave the nuts off and leave the driver on the midrange horn for weight. Just let the unit set with the weight of driver on the horn for a while and it should slowly turn loose. Again playing music with strong bass may help.:scratch2:
Sasquatch2
Active Member
Alexmac....would you share what brand/type and your source? I'm anxious to hear from videolady201 about mods on the 4024a's....I must be patient.
HomeBody
Passion not Critisism
To All Fans of the Mach One:
When attempting to remove the L-Pad assembly, do so from inside...Never from the outside.
The thinnest part would be found in the seat........
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HomeBody
Passion not Critisism
Well, I am feeling alittle anemic these days...:scratch2:
i just purchased the caps from a local repair shop ...i just replaced them with the same type ...the only difference being it that i used 100v instead of the 50v...made a world of difference...i few nights ago i was crankin some tunes and just before i turned it off i noticed a strange sound coming from the woofer ...thought for a bit that i somehow damaged it but after an inspection i figured it must be the caps.....after i replaced them all was well and sound better then ever
Copa1934
My ears are bleeding
I used a blow dryer around the edges. Softens the vinyl backing. Instead of prying use some very thin and dull (like a small putty knife) and work it under the lip, HOWEVER don't be tempted to pry outward yet. Just work the surface loose and eventually it will come off.
Using the pressure from the woofer also sounds like a good idea, but to play it safe I might suggest placing tape along the bottom edge, that way if it should pop out the tape will keep the pad from yanking on the wires. Not much weight there, but just an idea.
Francis
Sasquatch2
Active Member
videolady201
AK Member-Design Engineer
Tier 2 Upgrade
Just an update. Tier 2 is coming along!! I have to confirm a few measurements before I release it. If it turns out like I think it will, this will be the last upgrade!! Remember I said, if it turns out as the modeling shows now it will be past awesome!! I am also suppose to be getting a set of 4024a drivers. Once they come in I will do the test for Tier 2 on them as well and design a crossover for them too. We will finally know all the differences between the 4024a and the 4029s!! I will keep you posted as I move forward!:thmbsp:
Just an update. Tier 2 is coming along!! I have to confirm a few measurements before I release it. If it turns out like I think it will, this will be the last upgrade!! Remember I said, if it turns out as the modeling shows now it will be past awesome!! I am also suppose to be getting a set of 4024a drivers. Once they come in I will do the test for Tier 2 on them as well and design a crossover for them too. We will finally know all the differences between the 4024a and the 4029s!! I will keep you posted as I move forward!:thmbsp:
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bre's dad
I drank what?!?
Mine did that. They eventually popped back out, but the grills weren't on upside down too long.