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Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!

In the upgrades, where exactly is the replacement midrange foam tape attached? Where does the sticky side go? I opened up an upgrade .pdf in this thread, but only saw photos of midrange cleaning and felt attachment. I have 4024a and havent had a chance to back-track through all of the posts. I'm eager to try the mods now that they have been finalized for my model! Thanks!
 
May not seem important at first, but what kind of brush do you use, as there are all kinds of paint brushes. I've had good luck with "china" bristle brushes as they are stiff enough to clean surfaces, but not so stiff that they damage sensitive things like surrounds. If you use something different I would be interested in knowing.

One other reason I like the china brushes is they are usually very cheap, especially in assortment sets, and because they're inexpensive I can trim them to size or shapes I need. With the assortments you also have more coverage, ie different size brushes for different size speakers.

I have a pair of Allison speakers I'm trying to clean, but they seem to have some kind of coating, or it seems, and I'm not sure what would be safe to use on them. Thoughts?
 
Forgot to mention, love the image of Ol' Blue Eyes. Man was he skinny back then. I think Duets and Reprise collection will be on my list of tunes to run in my Mach vs JBL post. Another I thought of is Linda Rondstat "You're no good", between her vocals and the deep bass passages near the end of the song, should be a cool test track.
 
In the upgrades, where exactly is the replacement midrange foam tape attached? Where does the sticky side go? I opened up an upgrade .pdf in this thread, but only saw photos of midrange cleaning and felt attachment. I have 4024a and havent had a chance to back-track through all of the posts. I'm eager to try the mods now that they have been finalized for my model! Thanks!

I think its well worth your time to read the entire thread, there is allot of great information in it, also there are detail photos and descriptions from VL on how to do the upgrades properly. good luck
 
Yes Frank is the best signer/entertainer the world has every seen, well in my opinion.. :)

He was a man's man, and could party like an animal and was well liked by the females!

Whenever i get stressed or need to relax at work, i put on some Frank and all is ok... even better if a glass of Scotch is also by my side(But not at work).

I will be looking forward to hear Frank via my CDs and Vinyl too, when i get my Machs back up...

:)
 
I will be looking forward to hear Frank via my CDs and Vinyl too, when i get my Machs back up...

At what stage are your Mach,s? I have completed all in the tier one except the replacing caps with new values, this i am doing Friday
 
Just need to finish up the opening to the horn chamber and the crossovers...

I did already replace the old caps with Solen, but now i have to buy new ones again for the new crossover, so i guess i am still a week away...

But at the same time i am cleaning up my Sansui G-6000 to go with my Machs
too, so it might be another week too...
 
Good luck finding the values you need for your caps, i did not wish to wait to have them shipped so had to put a few in parallel to get values needed, also i will be unwinding copper from the inductor coil to reduce from .3 to .15 I couldn't find any in stock
 
First: while I know we try our best to support sponsors, like PE, sometimes availability and cost still play a role. With that said I use Erse caps. The following link has the models I used with my 4024a speakers and the improvement was very noticeable. http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseXAll They have two of the four (Tier 1) caps on the money. They have a 3.9uf (requires 4.0) and 13/15 for the 14uf. If this is not close enough (within 5%/10% tolerance, respectively), then they'll need to be in parallel(?) with another value.

VL will be better able to say what's best. I have definite plans to carry out the tier-1 soon and peform a 3-gun shootout (4024a vs 4029 vs JBL L3, the L3 being a formidable speaker in my A/B tests so far). My 4024a have only had caps and resistors (latter probably weren't required, oh well), but I'd like to service the Mids and tweeters at the very least to see if that helps these poor aging titans.
 
I used the Erse caps exclusively in my Z 19 xover rebuild- they are excellent sounding caps. Smoother and more neutral than Solens, more detailed than Daytons. I would use them anytime, they are priced fairly close to PE's. The Daytons have closer tolerance at 5%
DC
 
Here are all the .15mh carried by Erse...

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/ALQCoils?search=.15mh

Didn't think about issues going to Canada, though I would have thought something like this would be minor. Guess nothing is anymore eh?

Sorry about the gauge brain cramp, i was thinking of removing wire from the inductor coil and testing using an ohm meter untill i reached .15..what is you thought on this.
 
Winding Down Inductor

Sorry about the gauge brain cramp, i was thinking of removing wire from the inductor coil and testing using an ohm meter untill i reached .15..what is you thought on this.

If your multi-meter has an option to test inductance you could just wind off wire until it reads .15mh. If your are referring to it reading .15 ohms, that will not work.

I posted a while back, as a guess maybe around page 16, how many turns to take off to wind the .3 down to .15mh.
 
If your multi-meter has an option to test inductance you could just wind off wire until it reads .15mh. If your are referring to it reading .15 ohms, that will not work.

I posted a while back, as a guess maybe around page 16, how many turns to take off to wind the .3 down to .15mh.

I had noted that you advised that unwinding 52 rounds gave you a reading of .154 , Is this close enough or is it better for me to use a multi-meter and confirm .15
 
Inductors

I had noted that you advised that unwinding 52 rounds gave you a reading of .154 , Is this close enough or is it better for me to use a multi-meter and confirm .15

52 turns off should be fine. If you have a MM that has a mh scale and can test inductance, I would use it to confirm it, that would be best!
 
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