DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
That's not how it works. A 240 volt supply doesn't make appliances consume twice the energy of a 120 volt supply.
Hot Ovaltine?
Actually, it sounds like what a certain grumpy someone needs is a big hug.
Mains cables...
- Thread starter Bigmoonface
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Actually, it sounds like what a certain grumpy someone needs is a big hug.
Then the above statement is a lie and Psychoeletrical, snake oil.
Silentnet
Super Member
No, they use different heating elements. The UK supply is more robust, allowing the use of a higher wattage element. If you used the higher wattage element connected to a US system it would pop the breaker.
Yes and as such burns more electricity as more watts are needed, thanks for arguing my point.
AudioFeline
Super Member
Getting back to the OP's question... I'm not convinced how "audiophile" mains cables will make a difference to audio quality. The cable needs to make a solid connection to the mains outlet and the device. Beyond that, there is so much variation in cable and connections from the power station to the building, then cabling to the switchboard and from the switchboard to the wall outlet. I can't understand how 1 meter of super cable will make a difference in sound given the kilometers/miles of cable variation behind it. Yes, once the power is delivered to your device, quality can be affected by transformer quality, power smoothing, cable quality and lots of other stuff beyond my basic electronics ability. But before it enters the device, I can't see it making the difference.
I could be wrong, I've personally not tried or compared mega-audiophile-quality mains cables, and I'm aware that some people swear by the difference it makes. I'm open to be proven wrong, but am not sure I will be.
I could be wrong, I've personally not tried or compared mega-audiophile-quality mains cables, and I'm aware that some people swear by the difference it makes. I'm open to be proven wrong, but am not sure I will be.
However, in this day and age, less and less copper is being used in cords. Most lamp cord at the big box stores is copper coated aluminum. Most power cords don't have any shielding and if they do it's very poor and could be copper coated also. I have run into cases where the power cord created a hum in my power amps, just a cheap black plastic one. I changed it to what looked like a better cheap plastic one and have no hum.
Unless we buy cheap cords and cut them open we don't know what's inside for shielding or the conductor. I have bought McIntosh standard black plastic cords they use on their equipment, they are made in the USA and quality, but they still cost $24 and nothing special about the plug ends. I have bought quality three conductor cable , cheap but descent plugs, heat shrink and texflex to make my own power cords. It's cheaper just to buy a $50-$70 cord and have it shipped to your door and generally made better.
BillWojo
Addicted Member
When I hear British and electricity in the same sentence I always think of Joseph Lucas, AKA The Prince of Darkness.
I do give him credit for inventing the intermittent windshield wiper although he was never given credit for it. It's actually not in any of his engineering papers, like all Lucas electronics they were intermittent.........
BillWojo
I do give him credit for inventing the intermittent windshield wiper although he was never given credit for it. It's actually not in any of his engineering papers, like all Lucas electronics they were intermittent.........
BillWojo
darkblue94
The Devil made me do it.
Sure. Get good ones but don't be stupid about it. Case closed.
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The "miles and miles" canard misses the point. Similarly, you could ask how an activated water filter could possibly make a difference in a similar scenario. The best explanation I've heard is from former GamuT engineer Ole Lund Christensen:
"One day it hit me hard, it does not make sense because I am asking the wrong question..."
I remember when an audio reviewer friend first got his Kimber Palladians in 2001. I wondered the same thing. A weekend with three of them in my system convinced me. I now use a range of aftermarket and DIY cords in my systems. I also use 20A dedicated lines in the main system where the larger-gauge-than-stock amplifier cords (9 vs 16) can access the added current.
As with many things audio, the differences are system dependent and subtle. The manufacturers of my pre and power amp (Audio Research / VTL) use aftermarket power cords in their own systems.
On a related note, I use a Sonore ultraRendu renderer in the main system powered by an Uptone LPS-1 ultraconductor power supply designed by John Swenson. A couple of years ago, I read this post of his regarding the use of Canare Starquad for the DC side. I spent the princely sum of about $12 (pack of connectors and several feet of 4S6) and made a DIY version (see pic in post #12). That simple and inexpensive change noticeably improved low level dynamics which was not what I was expecting.
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DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
No, it only "burns more electricity" if you want it to. You can run a 3000 watt quick-boil kettle and rack of pro PA amplifiers if you like, but you can also use an economical 1500 watt (or lower) kettle and a flea-watt stereo if you prefer. The UK system offers greater capacity, but that doesn't mean you're forced to use that capacity or that it's inherently wasteful.
Key being "quick". Presumably running less time to boil than a lower current model.
When is an amp not an amp?
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DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
Yes. A good 3000 watt kettle will boil a litre of water in a little over two minutes.
That would be nice.
Just for grins, I filled my kettle with a liter (more than we normally boil for tea) and timed onset of whistle using the 240V stove. Took five minutes before I could enjoy some Earl Grey!
cpt_paranoia
Addicted Member
Do you really believe that, or are you just being contrary...?
loopstick
Lunatic Member
If you model the appliance as an equivalently dissipative load (useful work + losses = resistor) then it would seem to consume 4x the energy. Sorry not picking on you - but 427 (who has me on ignore, so he'll never know I did him this kindness) may have a point.
DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
Assuming an otherwise equivalent kettle varying only in the resistance of the heating element, the energy consumed to bring a given amount of water to boil is equal; the only difference is how long it takes to do it.
loopstick
Lunatic Member
That IS true ! Ignoring any difference in altitude and the seasonal variation of what is considered "room temperature" in the UK. A friend of mine from Birmingham said on winter mornings when he woke up he'd have to break the ice in the toilet before peeing. Strictly anecdotal of course.
We all know if it's available, ones going to use it. That's why here they started to reduce the bulb wattage, and even now took them away and forced LED onto the population. The UK needs to stop global warming and reduce their consumption. They can boil water in five minutes in the dark like everyone else.
DaveVoorhis
Addicted Member
It was a trick answer. Only the stack of PA amps vs a flea-watt stereo makes an energy consumption difference. The kettle wattage doesn't make an energy consumption difference because the energy consumed to boil a litre of water is equal whether it's a 1500 watt kettle or a 3000 watt kettle. The only difference is how long it takes to reach boil. That's what the extra capacity gives you, not greater energy consumption.We all know if it's available, ones going to use it. That's why here they started to reduce the bulb wattage, and even now took them away and forced LED onto the population. The UK needs to stop global warming and reduce their consumption. They can boil water in five minutes in the dark like everyone else.
LEDs vs incandescent bulbs makes an energy consumption difference because to achieve a given light output, an incandescent bulb requires more energy than LEDs because most of it lost as heat. They're little heaters that happen to emit some light.
