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Marantz 2216 recap

Ok, I checked the following:

JE09 32v, same as J811 on the power supply.. no problem here...

I pulled out and checked RE45: 100, as it should.

I flushed and cycled all switches in the unit, including the power switch, I saw improvement, there is much less distortion but the main issue remains, on power on and off volume comes back and distortion goes away.

I changed the 100uf 50v cap for a 220uf cap. No change for better or worse.
 
Can you check voltage on each side of RE39 and RE40, there should be the approx. 32V on the incoming side and then the drop on the other, but rare that both be taken out at once, then it would be on to the transitors, as that coll. voltage is not correct. Or pull one leg of them resistors and check value.
 
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Have you double checked the pin outs on HE05 and HE06? There is always six ways to install a transistor but only one right way.

Edit : The KSC1845 is ECB and so is 2SC1328 but make sure they are installed in the correct orientation.
 
The transistors are placed correctly.


patfont said:
Can you check voltage on each side of RE39 and RE40, there should be the approx. 32V on the incoming side and then the drop on the other, but rare that both be taken out at once, then it would be on to the transitors, as that coll. voltage is not correct. Or pull one leg of them resistors and check value.
Click to expand...

Both RE39 and RE40 measure 32,5 on one side and 0,6 on the other... This is exactly the amount of volts arriving to each transistor. Are the resistors the problem or the cap that joins before reaching the collector?
 
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varox84 said:
The transistors are placed correctly.




Both RE39 and RE40 measure 32,5 on one side and 0,6 on the other... This is exactly the amount of volts arriving to each transistor. Are the resistors the problem or the cap that joins before reaching the collector?
Click to expand...

Lets 1st pull one of the resistors and measure the value to see if it is 10K? I do not think a 10K resistor supplies a 32V drop. Also have you replaced any of the following capacitors CE13, 14, 15 or 16?
 
I will pull it and let you know. About the caps, yes all of them but then I placed that 100uf cap backwards... i guess we have a candidate? Should I replace all of the mentioned
 
varox84 said:
I will pull it and let you know. About the caps, yes all of them but then I placed that 100uf cap backwards... i guess we have a candidate? Should I replace all of the mentioned
Click to expand...

For positions CE15 and CE16 did you use Non Polar caps? That is what the schematic specifies for them. The 4.7 16V caps? If you want put them 2 old caps back in to test, if you did not use NP caps.
 
The amp was not original, there where crazy values polarized caps there... I did not realize those where non polar. Which do you recommend?
 
varox84 said:
The amp was not original, there where crazy values polarized caps there... I did not realize those where non polar. Which do you recommend?
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Nichicon ES, EP or VP, or you can use Wima MKS2 4.7uf 50V film caps.

Did you check value of 10K resistor? Do you have the old caps you took out I am wondering what was in the CE15 and CE16 slots because as you said unit was working before you did the power supply. If they are NP caps no negitive line on them put them back in to see what you have if the resistors check out ok.
 
I did not have time to check the 10k resistor, but to avoid keeping you on the loop: there where polarized Philips caps there, one 3,3uf and the other one 10uf... like I said... really crazy... but the amp was working.
 
Eureka! Polarized caps where non-polarized belong, that'll be a big problem. Makes sense as to why it plays correctly as it is bleeding down and powering up too.
 
I will order the wimas as I can get them locally and let you know. After cleaning the whole thing up again the distortion is minimal but the problem persists. I will replace those caps and we will take it from there. Thanks a lot for your help!
 
varox84 said:
I will order the wimas as I can get them locally and let you know. After cleaning the whole thing up again the distortion is minimal but the problem persists. I will replace those caps and we will take it from there. Thanks a lot for your help!
Click to expand...

that should do it!:music:
 
So, update.

I just soldered the wimas. No change for better or worse. Still the same issue.

I will check the resistors pat mentioned before and will check the voltages of the transistors now the wimas are there.

Just thinking ahead; Could the issue lie somewhere before the pre-amp? The power switch for instance? Is it possible to take it apart and clean it?

Maybe is time to check this thing with a scope to see if the signal comes already screwed up into the pre amp? I have a scope, if you guide me a little I could do this.

Thanks a lot,
 
Did not have time to check the resistors but I know that the problem might lie precisely there. I was checking some pictures of other 2216 pre amp boards when I noticed (yet another) a difference with mine: Resistors RE39 and RE40 (exactly the ones giving the 32v drop to the transistors -see previous replies-) are blue on my board (I think metal film?) while on the other pictures all resistors on the board are plain vanilla brown (carbon film?). I went to my board, flipped it and noticed from the solder traces that those two blue resistors are replacements. Probably not the right component... Does the metal vs film make a difference?

As I said, I will check the resistors whether those supicious "blue" resistors are the value they should be (10k).

I'll keep you updated.
 
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varox84 said:
Hey Pat when it comes to resistors, does the metal vs film make a difference?
Click to expand...

in that location I really would not worry about it. The only time I use a very nice resistor is at the signal path input on the preboard, others may have there own opinion or ideas on this subject.
 
patfont said:
Can you check voltage on each side of RE39 and RE40, there should be the approx. 32V on the incoming side and then the drop on the other, but rare that both be taken out at once, then it would be on to the transitors, as that coll. voltage is not correct. Or pull one leg of them resistors and check value.
Click to expand...

So, the resistors RE39 and RE40 tested correctly: 10

I guess next step is to test the transistors?
 
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