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Marantz 2230 Transformer

Are you sure that you attached it to the signal lead and not the outer ground lead?
Yes I put the probe inside of the pre out, and clipped the other lead on to the terminal itself. When I tap on the case or as much as touch the low filter button at all there resistance spikes like crazy..
 
Maybe you need to clean the Low Filter switch.
Can you see these switches like this photo?

1789935459586.png
 
On the metal part of the front panel, faceplate is removed. The bottom lip.
Instead of tapping there, try to tap on the Hi and Low filter push switches (not hard enough to push them in) but about the same as you did on the chassis.
 
Instead of tapping there, try to tap on the Hi and Low filter push switches (not hard enough to push them in) but about the same as you did on the chassis.
Yes when tapping on the low resistance spikes. I agree I’ll have to clean these. Do you think that would cause the right channel to be very low?
 
Right side is quite high around 400ohms with the buttons all off.
If the switch contacts are dirty (oxidized) then it will cause additional resistance in the circuit path. If one channel is worse than the other that could account for the low volume channel. (Looks like the R channel which is the one with the low output volume.)

Look at the picture in post #67. Can you see the back of the switches just below the P400 board? If you can get the Deoxit straw in there, you can try squirting into the switch then working it in/out to see if it improves.
 
If the switch contacts are dirty (oxidized) then it will cause additional resistance in the circuit path. If one channel is worse than the other that could account for the low volume channel. (Looks like the R channel which is the one with the low output volume.)

Look at the picture in post #67. Can you see the back of the switches just below the P400 board? If you can get the Deoxit straw in there, you can try squirting into the switch then working it in/out to see if it improves.
Will do!
 
If the switch contacts are dirty (oxidized) then it will cause additional resistance in the circuit path. If one channel is worse than the other that could account for the low volume channel. (Looks like the R channel which is the one with the low output volume.)

Look at the picture in post #67. Can you see the back of the switches just below the P400 board? If you can get the Deoxit straw in there, you can try squirting into the switch then working it in/out to see if it improves.
I removed the bass, mid and treble dial nuts and pulled the whole control assembly with the board out and had great access to the buttons, I just gave them a good cleaning, will wait a bit for them to dry out and get back to you.
 
A good time to clean those tone controls while you have the board out, if you haven't already done so.
 
A good time to clean those tone controls while you have the board out, if you haven't already done so.
I did those already lol, so all the button switch’s are clean now, resistance on the right channel is good now. Almost 0 ohms on left and right. My right channel is still very much low though, Ugghh, although cleaning the switch’s is good, something else is up.
 
I did those already lol, so all the button switch’s are clean now, resistance on the right channel is good now. Almost 0 ohms on left and right. My right channel is still very much low though, Ugghh, although cleaning the switch’s is good, something else is up.

This might be a little hard to read but I traced the path back from the PreOut L/R RCA jacks through the Low Filter and High Filter switches on the P600 Switch board, back to the P400, Tone Amp Board.

Can you access the P400 board connectors J405 and J406?
If you can then do this:
  • Power OFF and unplugged
  • Low Filter switch OFF
  • High Filter switch OFF
  • DMM set to measure Ohms
  • Put one DMM lead on the PreOut RCA center conductor for the R channel (it might help to plug in an RCA cable to the PreOut jack then clip the DMM lead to the center conductor of the cable).
  • Next, take the other DMM lead and attach it to the P400 board connector J405.
  • You should get close to 0 Ohms, continuity.
  • Next, do the same for the L channel.
  • One DMM lead to center pin of the PreOut RCA L channel, the other lead to P400 board J406.
  • You should get close to 0 Ohms continuity.
This test will verify wire continuity from the output of the Tone Amp board, filter switches, to the PreAmp outputs.
Let me know what you find out.

View attachment 3840446View attachment 3840447
The P400 board is under the bottom cover.
View attachment 3840462
I’m still quite suspicious of the coupling cap on the p400 board that makes the slight hum I have get so much louder? Seems to be on the right side of the board also?
 

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Did you clean the Loudness button also?
I did yes, as far as I know all of the switches and pots are clean. Everything works on it, the hum is very low with the metal bottom plate on, it’s mainly the right channel that’s problematic at this point.
 
What brand/model DMM do you have?
Me coming from an auto background I’m using a Blue Point EEDM503B dmm. I also have a cheap Astro that I bought to hopefully check caps with as the Blue point doesn’t have a capacitance mode.
 

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Me coming from an auto background I’m using a Blue Point EEDM503B dmm. I also have a cheap Astro that I bought to hopefully check caps with as the Blue point doesn’t have a capacitance mode

Me coming from an auto background I’m using a Blue Point EEDM503B dmm. I also have a cheap Astro that I bought to hopefully check caps with as the Blue point doesn’t have a capacitance mode.
Evening, Im looking at purchasing some test equipment but what are your opinions on what equipment I should start with? The idea of checking capacitence in circuit sounds great to me, would a meter like a MESR-100 a good option for that? Or is that considered a gimmick?
 
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