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MCS Left Channel No Sound.

faber12 said:
I doubt the WD-40 hurt anything, it simply did not help anything.

The CRC contact cleaner should not be used on anything other than a switch. It is very aggressive, and leaves no lubrication.

Deoxit is the best for you, D5 for everything, and F5 for all potentiometers, like volume controls.

Good luck, and happy new year. I had a MCS 3248, and it sounded great!
Click to expand...


Good points faber12.
You are correct, Deoxit is the preferred choice due to it having a small amount of lubricant as well as cleaning powers.
I find the whole Deoxit family somewhat confusing, but that's probably just me.
Conventional wisdom states to use D-5 followed by F-5 (Faderlube) on some types of controls.
That's where I get get confused....I know F-5 is good for equalizer sliders and similar types of controls but not sure about knobs that spin or controls that switch.
Maybe you could give some clarification?
I've seen mention of many people using CRC QD for initial cleaning (due to its cheaper cost) and then following it up with a Deoxit cleaner/lubricator.

I'd sure like to see Uno get his MCS 3275 up and running right.
 
Basically, any control with a wiper, or semi conductive material like eq sliders and volume/tone controls/pots need the lubrication of F5/Faderlube, and any switch/knob with contacts that are switched, like speaker/input selectors need just D5.

I urge caution when using the CRC. It contains acetone, a very strong solvent. Could damage some plastics.
 
this is the only contact cleaner that i can get here in mexico home depot.

http://www.3enuno.es/dynamic-LIMPIADOR DE CONTACTOS.htm?fid=4&cid=9&pid=1062

it says: "Characteristics: Removes oils, grease and dirt from electrical and electronic equipment Effective solvent based cleaner Acts and dries quickly without residue Dielectric, does not conduct electricity Compatible with all types of metals, plastics and rubber Colorless, leaves no residue Applications: Electrical and electronic equipment and parts Switches, connectors Printed circuits Hard disks and internal parts of computers Watch movements Precision instruments Others"

by its description i can think it removes the WD 40 an lean the contacts. what do you think?
 
faber12 said:
Basically, any control with a wiper, or semi conductive material like eq sliders and volume/tone controls/pots need the lubrication of F5/Faderlube, and any switch/knob with contacts that are switched, like speaker/input selectors need just D5.

I urge caution when using the CRC. It contains acetone, a very strong solvent. Could damage some plastics.
Click to expand...


Thanks.
So if it "adjusts" the signal it needs D-5 followed by F-5 or if it's a simple on/off D-5 is the right product? I'm trying to simplify this, I can't be the only one confused ( I hope).
I'm trying to find a Deoxit source in Mexico with no luck, Tried to find a "Mexican" ebay and it seems to be same as USA ebay I guess.
Some USA sellers say they will ship to Mexico but I'm not sure if that would result in a large shipping cost.

Uno, I have no knowledge about the "Sabo" product you posted earlier, maybe someone else will.
 
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Uno Castillo said:
this is the only contact cleaner that i can get here in mexico home depot.

http://www.3enuno.es/dynamic-LIMPIADOR DE CONTACTOS.htm?fid=4&cid=9&pid=1062

it says: "Characteristics: Removes oils, grease and dirt from electrical and electronic equipment Effective solvent based cleaner Acts and dries quickly without residue Dielectric, does not conduct electricity Compatible with all types of metals, plastics and rubber Colorless, leaves no residue Applications: Electrical and electronic equipment and parts Switches, connectors Printed circuits Hard disks and internal parts of computers Watch movements Precision instruments Others"

by its description i can think it removes the WD 40 an lean the contacts. what do you think?
Click to expand...

That looks good to me. I would then follow up with something similar to Deoxit Shield or Faderlube - something with a protective lubricant specifically for electronics - to help prevent future oxidation.

That Sabo product looks like it's aimed at computers, but if it leaves no residue, it should work, too.
 
This is an advice that I got from a friend .

1. Clean with Isopropyl alcohol all the WD - 40 in detail. Wait for an hour to evaporate.

2. Apply contact cleaner and wait an hour again
Then turn it on

What do you think?
 
He also said that wd- 40 + Dust could make a short circuit and damage some
Power transistors . I hope this is not the case.

For now I am going to make de treatment indicated. Hope to have good luck
 
Uno Castillo said:
This is an advice that I got from a friend .

1. Clean with Isopropyl alcohol all the WD - 40 in detail. Wait for an hour to evaporate.

2. Apply contact cleaner and wait an hour again
Then turn it on

What do you think?
Click to expand...

Besides applying the contact cleaner you also want to work the controls (depending on what the control does) back and forth from one end to the other (volume/balance, the eq adj. knobs, input selector, etc... any knob that turns) or on/off (tone defeat, muting switches for example), several times.
 
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That sounds like a good plan. The main power transistors are mounted near the rear of the receiver - on the two large heatsinks. I doubt you used any WD-40 in that area, so they should be fine. If they shorted, you wouldn't hear the main relay click when turning it on.
 
Well not such good news today. Process done. Nothing Change.

I took it to the tech. Tomorrow he will give me a diagnostic. Crossing fingers
 
Woo-Hoo! Everything working as it should - a great way to start out the new year!

Enjoy, and happy listening.
 
well, i told him what was happened. Also i ask him if maybe he can fix the leds of the power meters. he says yes.

Finally i pick up the amp and when i get home i wanted to know how he fix it. i take of the wood cover of the amp to take a look. what i saw doesn´t liked me too much. I was happy because the amp its working now. but i noticed that he took off the three fuses which were in the middle of the amp and install there a LED, which illuminates all the amp from inside.

what do you think?
it will Affect the function of the amp?

add some photos
 

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He just replaced the old incandescent lights with LED's. It may give off a somewhat different light than before, but it won't affect the function of the amp itself. And LED's run cooler and last much longer than the old light bulbs. Lot's of people make that change in vintage gear. You will probably never have to worry about the lights going out inside the case ever again. I've been tempted to do that to my MCS 3253.
 
oh nice, so in those places there were no fuses but incandescent lights?. Well it ok for me.

And yes, this amp it is a monster, it is really powerfull. I think i have to put some better speakers. I am using a Bose 203 Series III.
 
That style of light bulb that he replaced are called "fuse" type bulbs - due to their shape, but they aren't fuses really - just regular light bulbs.

You could run pretty much any speaker with that receiver. It can handle a lot. The speakers that were advertised alongside this receiver back in the day were huge, powerful monsters. They were model MCS 8228. Google that model, and see if you can read up on them. They are very rare now days.

I would see if you can track down some vintage Klipsch models. I like the way they sound with these amps and receivers.
 
thank you very much. For all you support.

Now i have to turn the page, the next chapter is "how can i fix the cape of my Technics Sl D1?" :D
 
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