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MCS Left Channel No Sound.

yes hinge tabs broken. i´ll check that thread. thank you.

i searched for those speakers, looks fantastic.
 

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Yeah, broken hinge tabs are very common. Hopefully, that thread can help.

Good luck!! Maybe try to get some speakers with big 10", 12" or 15" woofers. You should get lots of good bass with those. Although this amp should have no problem running 4 ohm speakers, 8 ohm are easier on the amp. Check the top of the cover vents for excessive heat if using 4 ohm speakers at high volumes. The less heat, the better.
 
That looks like a halogen bulb to me. I don't like the look of it either, but if there is no danger of the bulb shorting or melting anything, I guess it is OK.
 
Hifirob2 said:
That style of light bulb that he replaced are called "fuse" type bulbs - due to their shape, but they aren't fuses really - just regular light bulbs.

You could run pretty much any speaker with that receiver. It can handle a lot. The speakers that were advertised alongside this receiver back in the day were huge, powerful monsters. They were model MCS 8228. Google that model, and see if you can read up on them. They are very rare now days.

I would see if you can track down some vintage Klipsch models. I like the way they sound with these amps and receivers.
Click to expand...


A minor correction, I think the correct term is festoon bulbs.
Fuse bulbs often time have flat ends (like fuses) and those MCS bulb holders have holes in them that the pointed ends of the festoon style bulbs push into.
I always try to CAREFULLY make sure the bulb holders have enough pressure/tension to keep the bulbs in place.

Glad the 3275 is up and running Uno.
 
I wouldn't have known if I hadn't needed some for my 3125's.
I have OEM style bulbs in one of them (from dgwojo), blue LED festoons in the other.
 
I guess I'm also just more familiar with the bulbs that go in the NEC separates like the MCS 3865 and 3710 - and those use the fuse type of bulb. I have bought some from dgwojo in the past, and probably should order some more. One of these days....
 
The 3125 meter bulb holders are a bit finicky, especially with my fat fingers.
I assume the same is true for the 3275.
I always "pinched" the bulb holders closer together before inserting the bulbs which made it even more fun (especially with fat fingers) trying to insert the bulbs in their holders.
I found it easier to insert the bulbs first then try to "pinch" the top and bottom holders tighter/closer together.
Too loose and the bulb may blink off/on as contact is made or broke.
Also, with the LED bulbs, to keep the LED's pointed straight at the front of the unit a good tight fit works best. With incandescent if they spin a bit it doesn't affect their lighting effect.
 
LOL...yeah, I try to pinch the ends to hold the bulb tighter in place. On the fuse type bulbs (like in the 3865 and 3710) I'm always afraid I'll break the glass, so I use a small screwdriver to pry them out of the holders.

oh, and yeah - his tech is fast. I need to find one of those here....I always fear things will be gone for weeks at a time.
 
I took two pieces of gear to a repair shop last summer, was told "it will be about 3 weeks before we can get to them"....3 months later I got the phone call they were done.
Rob, you know about my first 3125...took it in, it was in the shop so long I bought the second one figuring the first one would never come back working right. About 6 months on that deal...


That's two different repair places too.
 
Yeah, it seldom goes as expected. But when it comes back working 100%, all is forgiven :) I also like taking a chance on ebay listings where the item is either untested or unable to test. I've scored some gems that way. I also have a few piles of "projects" to get to - LOL.
 
goodolpg said:
Good grief Uno....that was FAST.
I'm used to a couple months wait on repairs, your tech got it done in a couple days!
Click to expand...
one day. Acctually, just hours. Yes, he is an old man. i guess he know what it´s need to be done perfectly.

And his workshop it is only one block away. i guess i was lucky :D
 
Hot will mean different things to different people, but running two pair of 8 ohm speakers will generate some heat. If the vents are too warm to place your hand on it for a few seconds, then it may be getting too hot. You can either use just one set of speakers at a time, or (if the heat concerns you) set a small 12 volt DC computer fan on top of the vent to help pull the hot air up and out of the amp. I do this on some of my amps that run hot. Look for a 60-80 mm fan, and hook it up to a 4 - 6 volt "wall wart" or transformer, and plug it into a switched outlet on the back of the receiver. A 12 volt fan running at 4 - 6 volts should be very quiet, yet still cool the amp. It may not look the best, but it will keep things running cool. If the amp gets too hot, it may shorten it's life with continued use. I'm not trying to scare you - it's just that excessive heat is bad for electronics.
 
I think it's not so hot. I will keep an eye on it, but I thinks it is normal hot.

It is power full beast, I can't turn up the volumen more than "4" it more than enough.
I think everything it's just right.
I looking for a better pair of speakers,
I am uploading the options that I've found so far.

Polk audio 120 Watts 6" $75 USD

Gradiente 65 watts 8" $ 50 USD

REALISTIC MATCH TWO 165 Watts 15" $190 USD
 

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The Polks look too small to put out a lot of sound. I've never seen or heard any Gradiente speakers, but they look promising. There are some fans of the Realistic Mach speakers - I had a roommate in college that had some - they were nice and loud.

If you can listen to them before buying, that would help. Also, in speakers (like in amps), the heavier they are - the better constructed they should be. Always check the foam surrounds on the woofers. Sometimes they fall apart over time, and will need to be re-foamed. Some have fabric or rubber surrounds that last many years.

Speakers are tough to suggest. There are so many brands and models, and everybody will prefer some more than others. Let your ears be your guide. Thos Realistic ones will put out a lot of good bass if working properly.
 
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