• Please note that Audiokarma will be offline briefly for updates early on Monday morning, September 28th.

My new Technics SL-1310MkII and the famous cueing problem

Stanton681EEES said:
Your problem with the cuing is something completely different. The problem with his table and the two other tables from that series 1400 and 1500MKII was a badly designed part.
Click to expand...

My cuing problem is something completely different. When I trigger the autocue mechanism, the tonearm takes a nosedive before crash landing on the record with a screech. Likewise when I trigger the stopping mechanism, the stylus drags sideways across the grooves before nosediving and barely making its way back to the cradle. Danger! :thumbsdn:

Maybe I should probably just start my own thread.
 
kretinus said:
Is there a way to determine if the broken part is the problem or loss of "goo"?
Click to expand...
Yes. If it goes up and down, but does it too fast, it needs more goo. If it doesn't go up or down at all, it's the broken part. Believe me, there isn't a 1300MK2 out there with a cueing mechanism that's still intact after 30 years. They are notorious for this.

The person above (wiredbecker) who claims his problem is different has an SL-1900.
 
Ah, then I have a broken plastic thing, and having reviewed the procedure for repair, and remembering what I did to my beloved 9090 in an attempt to perform a simple adjustment, I believe I shall be quite happy with this turntable operated manually.

For what I paid, I can enjoy it while I look for the next TT upgrade.
 
Newb here....just picked up a 1300 MK2 at Goodwill for $10...no cueing naturally...so I'm using it as a manual...sounds great even out of my bottomoftheline Pioneer AV receiver...the A25 speakers are the key of course....
 
Hello,the arm lift cam can be repaired. i have repaired several of them and i have had the pleasure of working on an SL-1310MKII that the late Joel Thorner repaired the cueing on at one time at the turntable factory.

What you need to do is drill 2 very small holes on each side of the break
and ruff the surface up with sandpaper or a small dremel stone and cut 2 short pieces of small diameter mechanics wire and bend the ends to fit in the drilled holes and form the wire to the lift cam and then 2 part clear epoxy into the holes and over the wire and repaired area but go easy on the epoxy!
also all this has to be done with the cam clamped over the lift well until the epoxy sets up.and when reassembling you might have file the epoxy on the area of the cam where the lift lever contacts it.

Also don't forget to service the lift with fresh 300,000csi damping fluid.

Good Luck!
 
TT-Tech said:
Hello,the arm lift cam can be repaired. i have repaired several of them and i have had the pleasure of working on an SL-1310MKII that the late Joel Thorner repaired the cueing on at one time at the turntable factory.

What you need to do is drill 2 very small holes on each side of the break
and ruff the surface up with sandpaper or a small dremel stone and cut 2 short pieces of small diameter mechanics wire and bend the ends to fit in the drilled holes and form the wire to the lift cam and then 2 part clear epoxy into the holes and over the wire and repaired area but go easy on the epoxy!
also all this has to be done with the cam clamped over the lift well until the epoxy sets up.and when reassembling you might have file the epoxy on the area of the cam where the lift lever contacts it.

Also don't forget to service the lift with fresh 300,000csi damping fluid.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Hi, If I understand correctly, what you are describing is a way to reattach the broken lifter to the shaft.
I glued the lifter to the shaft using glue and that holds - at least for now. The real problem though is with the lever that transfers the up-down motion from the cue lever to the lifter. It's soft and springy and seems to have the effect of reducing the lift distance. I am working on finding a different piece of material to use there.
 
SaSi said:
Before mounting the riser assembly, we need to remount the tonearm wand and bearings to the base.

The tonearm is simply dropped in place from above. The VTA fastening bolt is what keeps it there for start.
Click to expand...

I have a question about that bolt in the center of the picture here, the one I believe you are referring to as the VTA fastening bolt. It is the one with a black mark on it and the only flat-head screw in place. Is the purpose of this bolt merely to fasten the tonearm to the rest of the mechanism? In my fiddling with a 1500MK2 I turned this bolt before knowing what it did. I was worried that it might do more than just hold the tonearm in place. Is this bolt a "precision" piece that should not be touched or does it matter if it is indeed taken out and then screwed back in? And once it is put back in does it matter how tightly it is screwed down? Thanks!
 
OK a couple of questions, was your platic part on a bushi8ng that then slid over the brass shaft? and did the drawing of the part show the long arm that goes up and cants at a 45 degree angle with that pointed end or is that wear? mine looks like it might be wear...I had to remove a C clip from the brass shaft to get the bushing and plastic part off, mine was only broken in one place, a very straight break. I have some pictures not sure how focused they are. Also when I was removeing the platee with the brass piece there was a nut I had to remove that held the tone arm lock down. I also could not remove my lift lever as they black plastic lift part and the black plastic rod would not come off metal shaft. Thanks for the great thread in showing me every thing else, it was very straight forward and easy using your directions, I have the SL-1400MKII.

Steve
 
I Have a machinist friend looking at this to see if it is feasable to make with a harder material, I think it will have to be made with the bushing internal measurement other wise trying to force the bushing into it may distort either the new part or the bushing.
Will see.
Steve
 
TT-Tech said:
Hello,the arm lift cam can be repaired. i have repaired several of them and i have had the pleasure of working on an SL-1310MKII that the late Joel Thorner repaired the cueing on at one time at the turntable factory.

What you need to do is drill 2 very small holes on each side of the break
and ruff the surface up with sandpaper or a small dremel stone and cut 2 short pieces of small diameter mechanics wire and bend the ends to fit in the drilled holes and form the wire to the lift cam and then 2 part clear epoxy into the holes and over the wire and repaired area but go easy on the epoxy!
also all this has to be done with the cam clamped over the lift well until the epoxy sets up.and when reassembling you might have file the epoxy on the area of the cam where the lift lever contacts it.

Also don't forget to service the lift with fresh 300,000csi damping fluid.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Any possibility there are pictures of this process? I would love to have some more detailed information on it.
 
I have repaired another SL-1300 mk2. This one had a white plastic piece rather than the black ones that I had repaired previously.

My current technique that worked well with the black piece is to drill holes through the fat pieces of the plastic to allow me to thread two copper wires all the way around the piece to reinforce it. I would epoxy the piece to the bushing and then twist the wires tight and solder them together.

This almost worked with the white piece, but I ran into the problem that the white plastic would melt when I tried to solder the wire and no epoxy would stick to it. However, it melts easily so that a small clear soldering iron can be used to repair the break. First put the piece around the bushing and heat the bushing with a low power soldering iron. Close the piece around the bushing (without burning yourself) while holding everything square. Let cool. The break can then be repaired using the soldering iron to locally melt the broken area. Not trusting this, I went ahead and used the wire repair method to reinforce it. Not sure whether the wires are tight enough to prevent catastrophic failure (i.e., broken stylus) when the plastic again shrinks and breaks several years down the line. However, my hope is the wire will make the repair permanent.

Anyway, for now everything looks good.
 
uhg.

I have a 1500 mk2 with the cuing issue, and I don't know if I want to bother trying to fix it....looks like a massive pain
 
treserious said:
uhg.

I have a 1500 mk2 with the cuing issue, and I don't know if I want to bother trying to fix it....looks like a massive pain
Click to expand...

After the first one it gets easier! :D

Depends on how good you are at repairing things and how much you want a working lift mechanism.

For me it was worth repairing a (actually 3) SL-1300 MK2. (How I ended up with 3 is a long story.)
:D YMMV!
 
Spellbinder said:
Haven't read the whole thread. Is this issue MKII only? Or can/does it effect the non-MKII 1300 and 1600
Click to expand...

Quick answer is that the plastic piece is a problem for the SL-1300 MK2, SL-1400 MK2, and SL-1500 MK2 models only. The pre-MK2 models I do not think have this problem.

I am not familiar, but I think an issue with the SL-1600 MK2 (and probably SL-1700 MK2 and SL-1800 MK2) is a rubber belt, easily replaced with a rubber o-ring from your friendly hardware store. This is a different issue and is not related to the SL-1300 MK2 plastic piece.
 
toups said:
Quick answer is that the plastic piece is a problem for the SL-1300 MK2, SL-1400 MK2, and SL-1500 MK2 models only. The pre-MK2 models I do not think have this problem...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. I'm eying a 1300 and 1600 and didn't want to take the plunge if this was going to be an issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom