Stanton681EEES
Addicted Member
Yes all the MK2 tables from that series have that problem....................
Why do you ask?
My new Technics SL-1310MkII and the famous cueing problem
- Thread starter SaSi
- Start date
Yes all the MK2 tables from that series have that problem....................
Why do you ask?
dnpainting
Super Member
In case I come across one of these turntables with the same issue, what do you think about wrapping the broken ring in a single piece of fiberglasswith resin, then sanding down smooth?
SaSi
Seriously Illogical
You don't have enough clearance around the plastic part to wrap a thick layer of anything.
I've fixed two arms so far (my third, faulty, SL1400MkII had a perfectly repaired arm and sticky switches and speed trimmer) and the fix I used was to superglue the plastic part around the brass barrel, using epoxy putty to complete the missing/shrinked part that created a small gap/ridge.
Apart from fixing the broken part, a good cleaning and re-priming with 300.000-400.000 RC gearbox fluid is essential.
Supergluing needs to be done with care not to have excess glue spread over the bearing barrel causing it to seize.
It is not really a very complicated fix, after all.
I've fixed two arms so far (my third, faulty, SL1400MkII had a perfectly repaired arm and sticky switches and speed trimmer) and the fix I used was to superglue the plastic part around the brass barrel, using epoxy putty to complete the missing/shrinked part that created a small gap/ridge.
Apart from fixing the broken part, a good cleaning and re-priming with 300.000-400.000 RC gearbox fluid is essential.
Supergluing needs to be done with care not to have excess glue spread over the bearing barrel causing it to seize.
It is not really a very complicated fix, after all.
dnpainting
Super Member
Thank you. I wasn't sure how much clearance there was because of the mention of fishing line in a couple of posts. Thank you for sharing all the detailed information and great pix. Since this is such an issue with these tables, maybe a sticky could be implemented on this procedure.
I asked because someone on CL is selling a 1400MK2 completely intact and supposedly working properly for $50, but if its nearly guaranteed to fail I'm not sure its worth the investment...
Stanton681EEES
Addicted Member
depending upon condition 50 doesn't seem like a bad price considering that if you bought it from ebay you'd have to add in shipping charges and those tables are heavy plus hopping seller would pack it rite.........
If you bought it and could fix it you'd have yourself a nice table and if you wanted to replace the arm you could do that as well and convert it from a semi-auto to a manual table............. From what I've read over at vinylengine,
converting it to a manual table isn't to difficult...........
SaSi
Seriously Illogical
If it is working properly (including the cueing mechanism) my guess is that it has been already repaired. Through various discussions it is almost certain that there should be no original tonearm still functioning today.
That TT is a beauty - thought they were the best looking Technics TTs of the era - and at this price it's a steal.
That TT is a beauty - thought they were the best looking Technics TTs of the era - and at this price it's a steal.
M0t0wn
Well-Known Member
This is a very good post especially since I can't find thave he pictures I made during the dissassembely of my Tone arm...
I was able to get the part fixed that was broken and sofar have put the tone arm back to gether.
But during the assembely this pin fell out of the tone arm base. I can't find the obvious spot where it is suppost to go. The exploded view of the SM shows a pin (TA 10-3) but I am not quite sure if this is the one. Any one have an idea?
I am also still working on the correct positioning of the tone arm sensor height. Currently it is binding up the arm and it cannot move freely.
I was able to get the part fixed that was broken and sofar have put the tone arm back to gether.
But during the assembely this pin fell out of the tone arm base. I can't find the obvious spot where it is suppost to go. The exploded view of the SM shows a pin (TA 10-3) but I am not quite sure if this is the one. Any one have an idea?
I am also still working on the correct positioning of the tone arm sensor height. Currently it is binding up the arm and it cannot move freely.
Attachments
toups
Well-Known Member
From what I remember, the pin is that pictured in the service manual as TA10-3. There should also be a small spring TA10-4. There is hole on the bottom of the tonearm that these go into. I believe the hole is actually the same as used for one of the two base plate screws. It appears that the purpose of the pin is to hold screw TA10 captive. (See groove on TA10.) So you should be able to figure out which is the proper hole. TA10 is the screw that one loosens to allow the VTA to be adjusted. (The turntable will work perfectly well without the spring and screw if need be. Just don't completely unscrew TA10 when loosening and you will be fine.)
I agree the exploded diagram in the service manual could have been much more informative!
Regarding the sensor, there are two screws with springs TA22-1 that adjust the height of the sensor relative to the sector that is sensed. It should be straight forward to adjust one everything is together properly.
toups
Well-Known Member
Double check to see that the screw you used to repair the part doesn't bind during any part of the tone arm motion. I remember the clearances are quite tight and I wonder if the screw is actually hitting something at some point in its travel rather than the sensor binding. You could remove the sensor and if it still binds, you know that is not the problem.
M0t0wn
Well-Known Member
toups, thanks for your response.
I put the pin in the outer base plate hole. It appears (to me) to limit the height (down) adjustment of the tone arm. No spring found in mine. Other springs that are visible on the exploded view are also not present. But it looks to me based on the pictures in this tread that my table is of a later build with some factory changes.
The issue with the tonearm sensor is that it was upside down. Finished it last night and it is playing well including the cue function. Even the automatic tone arm placement is still dead on.
One more question. Does the tone arm lift has dampening fluid if yes where is it supposed to go?
I put the pin in the outer base plate hole. It appears (to me) to limit the height (down) adjustment of the tone arm. No spring found in mine. Other springs that are visible on the exploded view are also not present. But it looks to me based on the pictures in this tread that my table is of a later build with some factory changes.
The issue with the tonearm sensor is that it was upside down. Finished it last night and it is playing well including the cue function. Even the automatic tone arm placement is still dead on.
One more question. Does the tone arm lift has dampening fluid if yes where is it supposed to go?
toups
Well-Known Member
Actually there should be a spring, but it is very very easy to lose. With the spring it should prevent you from completely removing the screw that you loosen to adjust the VTA.
Regarding the damping fluid, it is on the shaft that goes up and down when you operate the cue lever. There are some grooves that should be filled with damping fluid.
toups
Well-Known Member
I have an option of getting one right now for $49, gah! I just don't want to deal with this, so I guess I'll pass
For that price, where is your sense of adventure?
If you've read my recent threads-you'll see that I have been and am currently having far too much adventure! Sure wish I could afford more, but all my stereo money right now has to go into fixing and making better what I currently have. I am exercising an unimaginable amount of control on this! 
Ben aka MacKat
Ben aka MacKat
