First initial setup: Mid and subwoofer are working but not the 2 tweeters in the middle. For now, SpeakerLabs Super 7 is far more better.Congratulations!
Please do let us know how they sound.
First initial setup: Mid and subwoofer are working but not the 2 tweeters in the middle. For now, SpeakerLabs Super 7 is far more better.Congratulations!
Please do let us know how they sound.
Yes, they are all connected.Are the binding posts all jumpered together properly?
Just to clarify, these have a woofer (not a subwoofer), a lower cone midrange (or midbass coupler), an upper dome midrange, and a tweeter. It is possible that both of the latter are blown, but it's also possible that there is a crossover issue (or a wiring issue; sometimes clips can work themselves loose, or terminals can corrode). Your next step should be to remove the upper midrange and tweeter from the cabinet and test with a multimeter.The rest of binder posts: the 2 tweeters are not working and the subwoofer is.




My main concern now is to fix/replace the bad tweeter...Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
Don’t lose hope. A lot of tweeters and spare parts out there still.My main concern now is to fix/replace the bad tweeter...
If it can not be fixed/replaced, it isn't worth to go on further more.
Kinetic Audio is no longer in business. There is no replacement for tweeter.








CrossOver:Hmm, these are older than we thought. The fact that the driver is marked "Made in W Germany" dates it to 1989 or earlier (possibly 1990, I suppose). If you post the dimensions ot the cabinets we can probably determine what model you have.
If you pull the woofer, that should give you enough space to look inside the cabinets and find the crossover. I suspect it's a board mounted near the l-pads, not built into them.
Hmm, these are older than we thought. The fact that the driver is marked "Made in W Germany" dates it to 1989 or earlier (possibly 1990, I suppose). If you post the dimensions ot the cabinets we can probably determine what model you have.
If you pull the woofer, that should give you enough space to look inside the cabinets and find the crossover. I suspect it's a board mounted near the l-pads, not built into them.
Bad connection??? Bad wire??I still don't understand why I have no continuity from + binder post to the + wire. Thanks.