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Mystery speakers

Are the binding posts all jumpered together properly?
Yes, they are all connected.
Test each binding post:
The first top binding post: the mid range speaker works (the first top speaker).
The rest of binder posts: the 2 tweeters are not working and the subwoofer is.
Note: look for crossover schematic but there are no info for these speakers. Kinetic Audio is very tight lib about their products.
 
The rest of binder posts: the 2 tweeters are not working and the subwoofer is.
Just to clarify, these have a woofer (not a subwoofer), a lower cone midrange (or midbass coupler), an upper dome midrange, and a tweeter. It is possible that both of the latter are blown, but it's also possible that there is a crossover issue (or a wiring issue; sometimes clips can work themselves loose, or terminals can corrode). Your next step should be to remove the upper midrange and tweeter from the cabinet and test with a multimeter.

If they are blown, and you're lucky, the midrange and tweeter were standard off-the-shelf items. Kinetic Audio (they're no longer in business AFAICT) wasn't big enough to manufacture their own drivers, but it's possible that they had custom drivers made or modified by another company. The info on the back of each driver should give us more info.
 
Clarification:
The upper dome midrange and the woofer are working.
The lower cone midrange and the tweeter (the two drivers in between woofer and the upper dome midrange) are not working.
I took the lower cone midrange and the tweeter and test them with multimeter. One tweeter is bad (0L ohm) and the rest of them are good.
I took the binder post thing out to look for crossover but I found none. I will look further more. I suspected they are built into the L-pad.
I believed that the previous owner tried to fix it but he/she can't and that is the reason why the speakers were ended up at a thrief store.

The tweeter is made in Germany. See pictures.
IMG_20230325_164145.jpg
Tweeter from the back
IMG_20230325_164152.jpg
The lower dome midrange from the back
IMG_20230325_164202.jpg
Tweeter from the front
IMG_20230325_164206.jpg
The lower dome midrange from the front
IMG_20230325_171606.jpg
Binding post
 
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Hmm, these are older than we thought. The fact that the driver is marked "Made in W Germany" dates it to 1989 or earlier (possibly 1990, I suppose). If you post the dimensions ot the cabinets we can probably determine what model you have.

If you pull the woofer, that should give you enough space to look inside the cabinets and find the crossover. I suspect it's a board mounted near the l-pads, not built into them.
 
Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
 
Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
My main concern now is to fix/replace the bad tweeter...
If it can not be fixed/replaced, it isn't worth to go on further more.
Kinetic Audio is no longer in business. There is no replacement for tweeter.
 
If you can get the parameters for the good tweeter you may be able to find a suitable replacement or a pair.
 
My main concern now is to fix/replace the bad tweeter...
If it can not be fixed/replaced, it isn't worth to go on further more.
Kinetic Audio is no longer in business. There is no replacement for tweeter.
Don’t lose hope. A lot of tweeters and spare parts out there still.
Could contact Midwest Speaker or Simply Speakers.
 
Those are almost undoubtedly MB Quart tweeters and midranges. Those do come up here and there.

There are some "truncated flange" (the flange has a flat side) MB Quart tweeters out there for sale here and there (there's a pair of that big auction site right now, I think), that should be a suitable replacement for those tweeters, if nothing else can be done.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Here are some pictures and testing.
from - (black binder post #1) to - bottom Mid range or - tweeter: I got beep sound
from - (black binder post #1) to + bottom Mid range or + tweeter: I got beep sound

from + (black binder post #1) to - bottom Mid range or - tweeter: no beep sound
from + (black binder post #1) to + bottom Mid range or + tweeter: no beep sound

binder post.jpg
diagram.jpg
crossover
IMG_20230326_171002.jpg
woofer
inductor bottom.jpg
bottom inductor
inductor top.jpg
upper inductor
lpad 1.jpg
1st l-pad
lpad 2.jpg
2nd l-pad
lpad 3.jpg
3rd l-pad
 
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Hmm, these are older than we thought. The fact that the driver is marked "Made in W Germany" dates it to 1989 or earlier (possibly 1990, I suppose). If you post the dimensions ot the cabinets we can probably determine what model you have.

If you pull the woofer, that should give you enough space to look inside the cabinets and find the crossover. I suspect it's a board mounted near the l-pads, not built into them.
CrossOver:
They mount/glue capacitors behind/on the top of l-pad.

For bottom mid range and treeter, the + and - are shorted (I used multimeter to test them. one end touch the - binder post and the other end touches wire that connect to mid range or tweeter). I believe that capatitors on lpad #2 and lpad#3 are bad or the lpad #2 and lpad#3 are bad. I look around for spec but I don't any thing.
 
Based on the information in the 1987 Audio Magazine equipment directory, the model you appear to have is indeed the Trapezoid, but obviously an older model than was posted on the first page of this thread. Your dimensions aren't an exact match (could be a difference in stands, plus you're measuring without the grilles), but nothing else comes close. $2000/pair back then. And it looks like you were right about the domes, they are tweeter and supertweeter, not upper midrange and tweeter.
 
In one of the pictures it appears you have the notorious red capped black capacitors. These have a deserved reputation for being one of the most failure prone components. Between the limits of my screen and my eyesight I can't tell about the other caps.
 
Hmm, these are older than we thought. The fact that the driver is marked "Made in W Germany" dates it to 1989 or earlier (possibly 1990, I suppose). If you post the dimensions ot the cabinets we can probably determine what model you have.

If you pull the woofer, that should give you enough space to look inside the cabinets and find the crossover. I suspect it's a board mounted near the l-pads, not built into them.

There is no identifications to capacitors on the crossover. The capacitors are glued to the l-pad. The + binder post has no continuity to the + wire that connect to speaker. However, both of + and - wires connect to the - binder post. This happened on lower mid range and tweeter.
I measure ohm from the - binder post to the - and + wires that connect to lower mid-range. I turned the l-pad to the begin and I got 1 and something ohm for both of them. When I turned up l-pad, I got 1 or something ohm on the - wire, but the + wire, the ohm number increased. When I turn the l-pad to the end and I got 0l ohm from the + wire. I still don't understand why I have no continuity from + binder post to the + wire. Thanks.
 
It is quite likely that markings on the caps are obscured by either glue or their positioning. Fix this you may need to remove the glue, caps, etc. to get to the root of the problem.
I still don't understand why I have no continuity from + binder post to the + wire. Thanks.
Bad connection??? Bad wire??
 
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