I look around Ebay for part and Youtube for instruction, but I have not seen any specially MB Quart tweeter.Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
I have gotten specs for most of capacitors except the yellow cap that say IJ475J (mouser and digitkey rep don't know what it is).I’m sure they are good, they are film caps, usually don’t fail but who knows. The first is a Solen cap, it’s 2.5 UF at 400V. which is a pretty good quality cap.
kind of odd all those other caps are tied together. Just add them up and it will tell you what value it is.
your ohm meter won’t tell you if they are good or not, you need one that measures capacitance. They sell them pretty cheap.
Except for the Solen these are relatively cheap generic caps. Some say caps don't matter, others disagree. It has started numerous arguments on AK. Considering the manufacturers were not willing to put their name on them some may question the quality though the lJ475J seems to have a trademark on it. Also some believe using a cascade of caps to build up to a particular capacitance is superior to using one larger cap, YMMV.Last update: THERE IS A FEATURE WITH THIS L-PAD. WHEN I TURN THE L-PAD UP AND PASSED 45 degree (12:00 O'CLOCK) THEN THE L-PAD TURNED OPEN (NO CONNECTION BETWEEN AMP AND TWEETER AND SUPER TWEETER.Testing continuity on L-pad.
pin 1 & 2 = closed ( beep).
pin 1 & 3 = closed (beep).
pin 2 & 3 = closed (beep).
Note: there is nothing wired to the L-pad during testing.
Is the L-pad bad (pin 2&3 supposed to be opened)?
Thanks.
No I have not. I look on to voice coil for broken wire but I see nothing broken. Have you done before?Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
The break may be in the leads to the voice coil, not on the voice coil itself. I have repaired a few B&W DM 601 mk1 and mk2 tweeters with broken domes, using replacement domes from eb, and also repaired a broken lead on an Audax and a mk2 tweeter. All types were easy to disassemble but putting the new diaphragm on the mk1 was a pain (shimming was necessary).
It may even be just a bad solder point.
If you can dismount and check the voice coil for damage, you may also be able to test continuity closer to the coil. Disassembly seems fairly straightforward when looking at the pictures.
But it will be a good idea to mark the placement precisely before disassembly. Also these may use magnetic oil, so do not be surprised if there is some gunk on the coil. At this age it would be a good idea to replace any oil. I did so on my KEF 104/2 and it was not too difficult.