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Mystery speakers

Please help me to identify lower mid range capacitors...
Are they good?
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I’m sure they are good, they are film caps, usually don’t fail but who knows. The first is a Solen cap, it’s 2.5 UF at 400V. which is a pretty good quality cap.

kind of odd all those other caps are tied together. Just add them up and it will tell you what value it is.

your ohm meter won’t tell you if they are good or not, you need one that measures capacitance. They sell them pretty cheap.
 
Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
I look around Ebay for part and Youtube for instruction, but I have not seen any specially MB Quart tweeter.
By chance, do you have any info that lead me to get started.
Thanks.
 
I’m sure they are good, they are film caps, usually don’t fail but who knows. The first is a Solen cap, it’s 2.5 UF at 400V. which is a pretty good quality cap.

kind of odd all those other caps are tied together. Just add them up and it will tell you what value it is.

your ohm meter won’t tell you if they are good or not, you need one that measures capacitance. They sell them pretty cheap.
I have gotten specs for most of capacitors except the yellow cap that say IJ475J (mouser and digitkey rep don't know what it is).

Thanks.
 
Older caps sometimes (often?) did not follow marking standards. My guess is 47 times ten to the fifth power pico farads, aka 4.7uF +/- 5%, J being the +/- 5%.
there are relatively cheap testers available on Ebay or Amazon for under $20 it you want to confirm. Not great equipment but sufficient for someone not doing a lot of critical work.
cheap tester.jpgExcept for the Solen these are relatively cheap generic caps. Some say caps don't matter, others disagree. It has started numerous arguments on AK. Considering the manufacturers were not willing to put their name on them some may question the quality though the lJ475J seems to have a trademark on it. Also some believe using a cascade of caps to build up to a particular capacitance is superior to using one larger cap, YMMV.
 
Interesting that the woofer has dual terminals.

The magic marker on the magnet would appear to indicate voice coil specs, as if it had been re-built at some point.
 
Testing continuity on L-pad.
pin 1 & 2 = closed ( beep).
pin 1 & 3 = closed (beep).
pin 2 & 3 = closed (beep).
Note: there is nothing wired to the L-pad during testing.

Is the L-pad bad (pin 2&3 supposed to be opened)?
Thanks.
 
Testing continuity on L-pad.
pin 1 & 2 = closed ( beep).
pin 1 & 3 = closed (beep).
pin 2 & 3 = closed (beep).
Note: there is nothing wired to the L-pad during testing.

Is the L-pad bad (pin 2&3 supposed to be opened)?
Thanks.
Last update: THERE IS A FEATURE WITH THIS L-PAD. WHEN I TURN THE L-PAD UP AND PASSED 45 degree (12:00 O'CLOCK) THEN THE L-PAD TURNED OPEN (NO CONNECTION BETWEEN AMP AND TWEETER AND SUPER TWEETER.

THEREFORE, THE PROBLEM CHILD OF THESE SPEAKERS ARE L-PAD.
 
I have gotten one of the speakers work completely and the other one works without super tweeter.
How do they sound?
Loud, clear and details and tight. Very musical. The tweeter and super tweeter (MB-QUART) do very good job on the high end. Woofer is good but not really tight. I can hear to music to the instruments. These speakers are best fit for vocal and melody music.

Compare to SpeakerLab Super 7: The super 7 beat them on base or low-end. The horn isn't good enough against the tweeter and super tweeter. I still think the super 7 is good or better for rock & roll music.

These are the initial comparison. I still have to fix super tweeter then I have to listen and compare again. The Kinetic speaker are really good frankly.
I have so much fun to listen to them. They are very musical!!!!!!!! and worth for the time and money to fix them.
 
Do you have continuity on the bad tweeter?
If not, you may have a broken lead, and may be able to fix it.
It seems that it will come apart and reassemble quite easily.
No I have not. I look on to voice coil for broken wire but I see nothing broken. Have you done before?
I called several shops and they don't do repair mb-quart.
 
The break may be in the leads to the voice coil, not on the voice coil itself. I have repaired a few B&W DM 601 mk1 and mk2 tweeters with broken domes, using replacement domes from eb, and also repaired a broken lead on an Audax and a mk2 tweeter. All types were easy to disassemble but putting the new diaphragm on the mk1 was a pain (shimming was necessary).
It may even be just a bad solder point.
If you can dismount and check the voice coil for damage, you may also be able to test continuity closer to the coil. Disassembly seems fairly straightforward when looking at the pictures.
But it will be a good idea to mark the placement precisely before disassembly. Also these may use magnetic oil, so do not be surprised if there is some gunk on the coil. At this age it would be a good idea to replace any oil. I did so on my KEF 104/2 and it was not too difficult.
 
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The break may be in the leads to the voice coil, not on the voice coil itself. I have repaired a few B&W DM 601 mk1 and mk2 tweeters with broken domes, using replacement domes from eb, and also repaired a broken lead on an Audax and a mk2 tweeter. All types were easy to disassemble but putting the new diaphragm on the mk1 was a pain (shimming was necessary).
It may even be just a bad solder point.
If you can dismount and check the voice coil for damage, you may also be able to test continuity closer to the coil. Disassembly seems fairly straightforward when looking at the pictures.
But it will be a good idea to mark the placement precisely before disassembly. Also these may use magnetic oil, so do not be surprised if there is some gunk on the coil. At this age it would be a good idea to replace any oil. I did so on my KEF 104/2 and it was not too difficult.

I took it a part and look for broken wire. Good thing is voice coil is in good shape. I have to use razor blade to rub wire gently and use voltage meter to test continuity. I started from the + side to the voice coil, one section a time. The brokend wire occured right on the border of the voice coil and the brown flank. I make sense since the voice voil move up/down (vibrirate so much) and it cause the wire broken down right on the border. I was able to reconnect them. It is really to solder since the wire is tiny. I used my wife's nail thing to apply where I soldered and I assumbled them and test continuity again just want to make sure.

I installed it to my speaker and listened to them at the first time that I have had every thing working. Good thing that my reconnected-wire tweeter was blowing up.

Imaging is excellent. I can hear word well from lips and teeth (this is the details I can hear better than my Speakerlab Super 7). The speakers are not small room same as SpeakerLab Super 7.

Overall, these speakers are slighter bit better than SpeakerLab Super 7 based up on my preference - listening to concert, vocal and melody musics.

Thank you and every who inputs ideas and thought to help me with pair of speaker.

I attached the picture with the blue circles where I fix the broken wires.
 

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