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Now in the ADS 910 club

nerdorama said:
If you don't find a bad tweeter fuse or a loose connection on the 6 pin plug for the driver leads, you can measure the driver resistances from the plug end without pulling the drivers. Here's the pinout for the plug. The drivers are on 1-2 woofers, 3-4 mid, and 5-6 tweeter.
View attachment 753934
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Nerdorama Thanks for the speaker plug pin labeling and diagram. That could really come in handy someday. I think I'll print it off right now and add it to my 910's manual and papers.
 
Steelsnow said:
What glue are you using for it? I need to pick up a few bulbs for the C27 while I am at it.
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Haven't decided yet. I need to try and figure out what was originally used, plus there's some staples. I don't want to damage the grill frames removing the original cloth.
 
Drugolf said:
See, this is what is needed, and would be fairly straight forward for someone with the right tools and knowhow. Cool.
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So he got back to me. He is fine with making it, he just needs someone to produce STEP or DXF file. True geometry. He uses mastercam, and can set up tool paths for it pretty easy. I work with autocad, so I could get him the drawing file. I may be able to trace it with some of the commands and see how it comes out. Anyone have a nice, level jpg of one of the emblems they could send me?
 
GD70 said:
I usually set the meter to the lowest ohm setting, 200. I assume you put the meter probes on the tabs.
Did you connect the wires from your receiver directly to the tweeters, at very low volume to see if they produced sound?
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This is exactly what I did. Very low volume and nada. As for the multi meter, it's possible I don't know how to work it, or it's just not set up for what I needed it for. Here is the one I am working with. https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...manual-multimeter-with-efd?variant=5717078789
 
Steelsnow said:
So he got back to me. He is fine with making it, he just needs someone to produce STEP or DXF file. True geometry. He uses mastercam, and can set up tool paths for it pretty easy. I work with autocad, so I could get him the drawing file. I may be able to trace it with some of the commands and see how it comes out. Anyone have a nice, level jpg of one of the emblems they could send me?
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Will these help?

After repaint and surface sanding.
 
GD70 said:
Will these help?
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Not really. I'd need for it to be a face on shot, looking straight down. Preferably having the emblem centered in the picture - straight angles. That way when I trace it, I can do straight lines and not have to rotate anything, etc.
 
Steelsnow said:
Not really. I'd need for it to be a face on shot, looking straight down. Preferably having the emblem centered in the picture - straight angles. That way when I trace it, I can do straight lines and not have to rotate anything, etc.
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Ok, I can take a few pics tonight unless some one beats me to it.
 
Here's the pics. It measures 2 X 3/4 inches. The raised frame edge is 1/32nd inch wide, overall it's 1/16th thick, the relief is 1/32nd deep.
Hope these work.


 
I was looking at the brochure for these and the promo photos show the badges white with black lettering so they would show better printed.
 
Steelsnow, badges would be awesome, please count me in for two if you are taking orders.

Glenn, if you have tips on how to remove the grill cloth, that would be very helpful.
 
Aptone said:
Steelsnow, badges would be awesome, please count me in for two if you are taking orders.

Glenn, if you have tips on how to remove the grill cloth, that would be very helpful.
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When I start on them, I'll post info and pics in my thread.
Cheers!
 
Steelsnow,
Here's two more badge images. I squared them up in Photoshop, with white & black back grounds. Hopefully these will work.
Glenn

 
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