Now in the ADS 910 club
- Thread starter Steelsnow
- Start date
GD70
Lunatic Member
Awesome! Where did you find them?
Steelsnow
Member
My dad had an audio control Richter scale. Had a bag with the manual and the mic, and they were in it. I didn't look at them close enough the last few times I dug into the bag.
CreamSupreme
New Member
Wow, that's really nice! How does one go about this exactly, meaning, what do I mount that plate to? (Binding post upgrade)
I'm getting my 910s in a few weeks and one is missing a badge as well.
Last edited:
As far as the badge, there was an effort going to replicate the badges as several of us need them. Ran into a copyright issue but was ready to go.
I am replicating the stands and have an initial prototype done now so I should be able to offer something up soon on those.
You can pick up a typical binding post plate from Parts express or similar and it easli attached to the inside of the frame on the back of the speaker in the crossover space gap. I then soldered some 14 gauge quality speaker wire to the back of the posts as if it were wire inside a speaker and then used a spade at the terminals on the crossover board. it is a short run so you can splurge on good wire.
That is exciting Drugolf. I am still interested in stands.
I also finally have all the pieces necessary to biamp: cards, SAE 4000 crossover, and two functioning amps. I have not had time to put it all together. Hopefully the crossover works! It is an unknown at the moment.
Last edited:
Yes, and it is looking pretty good too. The process includes sourcing the materials to keep costs down. Prices on the aluminum can vary significantly. even the hand clamping knobs can be expensive locally (if you can even find them) vs finding an on-line source. Powdercoat vs rattlecan with clear coat.... The more we make in one effort the cheaper.
I am thinking if we can get them available for $200 or less, then you guys would find value.
Glenn is checking a few things on his originals for me now.
Would love to have bi-amp capability on mine.
Not sure what Glenn is providing for info, but have you seen this drawing? Maybe it will help. I grabbed it off Audiokarma can't remember who I should credit for it. It was a bit of a group effort, with no input from me. Perhaps it will be helpful?
GD70
Lunatic Member
Oooooo exciting! Keep us posted and with lots of pics!
Yep, that one and another that included the dimension of the top which is missing on this one. The hardest part is proving to be dialing in the angle pitch.
the thread pitch of the side knobs? My speakers have the knobs, so that is something I could help with if that s the issue.
OK, will do. I might be able to get started tonight.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Badge update.
I just got off the phone with someone in marketing at Difinitive Technology. She was very apologetic that no one had gotten back to me.
She's checking on my request to make a bunch of these and if there's any copyright issues from their end. I explained what we want them for, a bunch of audio hobbyists looking to restore our 910's, not looking to make money on them, just to cover manufacture costs etc...
She said she would do some digging and get back to me in a couple days. She has my cell and email and I have her direct phone number.
Keeping fingers crossed.
Glenn
I just got off the phone with someone in marketing at Difinitive Technology. She was very apologetic that no one had gotten back to me.
She's checking on my request to make a bunch of these and if there's any copyright issues from their end. I explained what we want them for, a bunch of audio hobbyists looking to restore our 910's, not looking to make money on them, just to cover manufacture costs etc...
She said she would do some digging and get back to me in a couple days. She has my cell and email and I have her direct phone number.
Keeping fingers crossed.
Glenn
GD70
Lunatic Member
Not sure how many of you noticed this or if I mentioned it earlier, but in the 910 brochure, but the badges are reversed, white with black lettering for better legibility, interesting.
http://sportsbil.com/ads/l-910-brochure.pdf
http://sportsbil.com/ads/l-910-brochure.pdf
We have achieved biamplification! It sounds awesome. I will be the first to admit I have tin ears, but to me it sounds more spacious and clear. The 300 w amp is probably really helping at the low end. Can't crank it too loud as the family is settling down for bed. I have it outputting about 85 db as measured at my chair here in the basement, and I just got scolded that it is too loud.
The equipment:
SAE 2900 preamp
SAE 2200 @ 100 w into 8 and 4 ohms powering the mids and tweeters
SAE 2500 @ 300 w into 8 ohm and 450 w into 4 ohms powering the woofers
SAE 4000 active equalizer
The connections to the crossovers is like this (thanks Glenn)
Because the jumper for a single amp bridges all three grounds, and you only want to bridge the mid and tweeter for the biamplification, I just moved the jumper over one slot. The important thing is to remember which wire is for the woofers and which is for the high range. I put a twist tie on the amp end of the woofer wires so I could identify them after the wire went through the speaker tunnel. At the crossover, the woofer wires have colored connectors.
The wires with the colored connectors are the woofer wires. You can see the unused part of the ground jumper hanging out into space. The biamp card is installed on the left crossover. Don't be a fool and forget to do the second one or the speaker produces no sound. A bit if head scratching sorted it out. One downside to biamping is the LED power meters are not working. Maybe there is a solution?
The equipment:
SAE 2900 preamp
SAE 2200 @ 100 w into 8 and 4 ohms powering the mids and tweeters
SAE 2500 @ 300 w into 8 ohm and 450 w into 4 ohms powering the woofers
SAE 4000 active equalizer
The connections to the crossovers is like this (thanks Glenn)
Because the jumper for a single amp bridges all three grounds, and you only want to bridge the mid and tweeter for the biamplification, I just moved the jumper over one slot. The important thing is to remember which wire is for the woofers and which is for the high range. I put a twist tie on the amp end of the woofer wires so I could identify them after the wire went through the speaker tunnel. At the crossover, the woofer wires have colored connectors.
The wires with the colored connectors are the woofer wires. You can see the unused part of the ground jumper hanging out into space. The biamp card is installed on the left crossover. Don't be a fool and forget to do the second one or the speaker produces no sound. A bit if head scratching sorted it out. One downside to biamping is the LED power meters are not working. Maybe there is a solution?
Last edited:
I have the crossover set at 500 hz as the low range cutoff, and the upper range set at 400 hz for a 100 hz overlap. The SAE 4000 manual provides an example that includes a 400 hz overlap, but the ADS 910 manual appears to indicate just 100 hz overlap. Maybe I will try some tone sweeps tomorrow to see how that sounds. That might help with tweaking the settings.
The balance between low and high is in the middle detent now while listening to a CD. When listening to a record earlier, it sounded too bright, and I adjusted the balance a bit towards the bass. The crossover comes with a cover you can screw onto the front to prevent anyone from monkeying with the controls, but I am going to leave it off for a while so I can make adjustments. This is fun!
The balance between low and high is in the middle detent now while listening to a CD. When listening to a record earlier, it sounded too bright, and I adjusted the balance a bit towards the bass. The crossover comes with a cover you can screw onto the front to prevent anyone from monkeying with the controls, but I am going to leave it off for a while so I can make adjustments. This is fun!
Last edited: