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Open Baffle Epiphany!

…"I've now fallen in love with some Tekton 4.5OB's that I picked up last week"

Great choice!

The Tekton 4.5OB's are excellent but they're even better with H-frame Alphas.

I was hesitant to try the H frame thing in my tiny room but from what I can tell so far I think it's going to work pretty well.
The cardboard mockup ain't pretty, but it served the purpose and it actually sounds really good.
 
Hey Paul, what were the ready made boxes that can be used for H-Frames? I think you posted about them at one time.

cubdog
 
Shoot! I thought those came in a size large enough for the Alpha 15s. Guess not. I was hoping not to have to fabricate anything. My woodworking tools/skills are at a bare minimum. :sigh:

Wes, what drivers are you putting in them?

cubdog
 
I've talked quite a bit in other threads about the MCM 10" vs the Eminence Alpha 15" in the build for my 11x12 room.
I've been pretty happy with them in my build but with that setup I think I still need some more bass.
With the Tekton's, they're a bit better but they still need some oomph in this room. My plan is to use the MCM 10" in my H Bombs, again instead of the Alpha 15's. I know that some don't like the Qts on the MCM's for the OB build, but what about in an H Frame? Any input?
I figure it's a cheap and easy trial since I have them sitting unused right now anyway.
 
Shoot! I thought those came in a size large enough for the Alpha 15s. Guess not. I was hoping not to have to fabricate anything. My woodworking tools/skills are at a bare minimum. :sigh:

Wes, what drivers are you putting in them?

cubdog

Just have Home Depot make all your cuts then all you have to do is cut out the hole for the driver then screw/glue together. I can send you a cut sheet if you want.
 
Shoot! I thought those came in a size large enough for the Alpha 15s. Guess not. I was hoping not to have to fabricate anything. My woodworking tools/skills are at a bare minimum. :sigh:

Wes, what drivers are you putting in them?

cubdog

Just have Home Depot make all your cuts then all you have to do is cut out the hole for the driver then screw/glue together. I can send you a cut sheet if you want.

While you're there, if your budget allows, pick up a Kreg pocket hole kit.
It is foolproof, dead simple to use and creates very strong joinery.

Art
 
While you're there, if your budget allows, pick up a Kreg pocket hole kit.
It is foolproof, dead simple to use and creates very strong joinery.

Art

Love my Kreg and it's the simplest solution to make a box. Used it on my H-frames and they're so strong you could bounce on them.
 
Wes,

You could increase output with two MCM's per side. Maybe H-bombs stacked vertically?

I thought about that. Thing is, I have the Tektons on some 15" stands and that's a perfect height, plus the bass is really nice with just the one H frame using a 10" woofer. And the big thing: I'm on a very tight budget right now with my oldest kid about to start college! The Alphas are cheap, for sure, as would be 2 more of the MCM's, but not having to buy any new drivers is really appealing.
 
You can also use OB woofers separate and apart from your main speakers. I've used these to augment some small Tekton bookshelf speakers.

picture.php
 
Very cool thread!

I built a small H-frame sub last year with an Alpha-15A and truly love it. I've had a bear of a time getting decent bass response in my small, basement room and by having this one in the nearfield (ala John Reekie), directly behind me , it's some of the best music bass I've ever heard. Very flat to 40Hz with very little ringing or overhang. I even get loads of that kick drum chest-punch you might feel at a live rock show (maybe the low moving mass at work?). And having it so close, available volume is quite high but I could use a bit more at times. Pretty awesome at the price. I use an 80Hz low-pass and its position is not detectable to me. I've listened and measured extensively (REW) and this is the prime position - up front is much worse in this room. Here's the sub:


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And in position:

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Of course, one can never rest so I've been toying with the idea of a Goldwood GW-1858 for deeper/louder or even one of those awesome AE Dipole 15's but that'd require EQ.

Am also looking to test the open-baffle waters for the rest of the range. What'd be a good suggestion for a full-ranger that'd get me to below 80Hz in OB (since I don't want to cross the sub any higher than that)?

And, finally, thanks Martin King for the great write-ups! :thmbsp:
 
Just have Home Depot make all your cuts then all you have to do is cut out the hole for the driver then screw/glue together. I can send you a cut sheet if you want.

Thanks Michael but I'm not ready to do anything yet. I still haven't decided what the final configuration will be. Until I get the electronics figured out I'm in no hurry to proceed. The damn feedback is sucking all the fun out of this project.

cubdog
 
BTW, with these H Frame builds is the baffle centered within the cube. It looks to be but I'm not sure it's ever been mentioned.

cubdog
 
Of course, one can never rest so I've been toying with the idea of a Goldwood GW-1858 for deeper/louder or even one of those awesome AE Dipole 15's but that'd require EQ.

Am also looking to test the open-baffle waters for the rest of the range. What'd be a good suggestion for a full-ranger that'd get me to below 80Hz in OB (since I don't want to cross the sub any higher than that)?

And, finally, thanks Martin King for the great write-ups!

Hi Jack,

Thanks for the positive feedback, very much appreciated.

The GW-1858 is really great in an H frame. Take what you are hearing from the Alpha 15A and add another 15 Hz of low end response (it will hit close to 20 Hz, no kidding) and add some more efficiency.

I paired quite a few 4 - 5 inch full range drivers with the GW-1858 H frame. Some of my favorites were the Jordan JX92S (now made by EAD) and the Fostex FX120. Both can do the entire spectrum from 100 Hz up and have a nice smooth response. A sharper crisper response is available from the Fostex FE-126En if you want more high frequency bite. Getting the right toe in helps smooth things out so make the OBs adjustable for the full range drivers.

Martin
 
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