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pioneer ctf 1000 new belt still no ff or rew

troutfisher

troutfisher

Well-Known Member
Just finished putting new belts and idler wheels in my ctf 1000 but still no ff or rew .
What do I try next? or do I use it for a boat anchor?
Thanks
 
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SEE if the motor turns in both FF and REW.

Did you replace the wind motor pulley?. Do that if not. From WJOE.
 
There are rubber type wheels in this player. Not sure what they are called, but I had this player many years ago and sold it because of the same problem. The guy that bought it said it took him all of about 1 hour to make it perfect. Mentioned something about wheels that make contact with something to do fast forward and reverse. Wish I was more technically savvy to help you more.
 
troutfisher said:
yes all rubber is new
Click to expand...

Ok. You said you replaced the belts and idlers and you made no mention of the the pulley being replaced. As long as you did that (as you now say), you are good. Yes, check for a defect idler clutch as well.

Did you visually verify the motor works fine in both wind directions?
 
troutfisher said:
how freely should the clutch spin on the shaft?
found I had a good clutch in a parts 9191 that is not cracked
Click to expand...
The heavier spring in a cracked clutch will push the clutch apart and make excessive friction on its own shaft. The cracked portion is in a place designed to provide a press-fit connection that contains the heavy spring pressure, limiting it to the inside of the clutch. The crack loosens the press-fit connection, allowing the heavy spring pressure to escape the clutch and spill out to affect the overall clutch-idler assembly, tending to effectively absorb most of the available drive force that gets to it, so there is not much drive left to move the reels.

A properly functioning clutch will have a very slight amount of resistance on its own shaft, from the weaker spring (providing for the required idler pivoting with direction changes). The clutch should never free spin on its shaft.

The heavier spring in the clutch powers the actual clutch in the idler, which softens the otherwise very sharp forces encountered when a fast mode operation hits the end of the tape. It is important. When the idler clutch has been properly repaired, you should be able to feel somewhat firm resistance when rotating the upper part of the clutch one way and the bottom part the other way, The resistance should not be too much or too little, but the range of acceptability is pretty broad.

Get the cracked part repaired (a very fine banding). Then, get a fresh idler tire. You should also get a freshly rubber'd motor pulley as well. Having done all of that, your FF/REW operation should be good for many trouble-free years.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Last edited:
pustelniakr said:
The heavier spring in a cracked clutch will push the clutch apart and make excessive friction on its own shaft. A properly functioning clutch will have a very slight amount of resistance on its own shaft, from the weaker spring (providing for the required pivoting with direction changes). The clutch should never free spin on its shaft.

The heavier spring in the clutch powers the actual clutch in the idler, which absorbs the forces encountered when a fast mode hits the end of the tape. It is important. When the idler clutch has been properly repaired, you should be able to feel somewhat firm resistance when rotating the upper part of the clutch one way and the bottom part the other way, The the resistance should not be too much or too little, but the range of acceptability is pretty broad.

Get the cracked part repaired (a very fine banding). Then, get a fresh idler tire. You should also get a freshly rubber'd motor pulley as well. Having done all of that, your FF/REW operation should be good for many trouble-free years.

Enjoy,
Rich P
Click to expand...
sounds good with the good spare out of the 9191 I'm ready to put it back together and see what happens
 
troutfisher said:
sounds good with the good spare out of the 9191 I'm ready to put it back together and see what happens
Click to expand...
Be careful to put it all back together correctly. There are lots of parts to get lost as soon as you remove the retaining E-clip.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
troutfisher said:
ff works but very jerky rewind
Click to expand...
Condition of rubber drive surfaces and cleanliness of the surfaces driven by them; proper assembly and condition of the drive linkage, overall; condition/packing of the tape being driven; etc. Operation with the face off should tell you where the drive slipping, if any, is occurring. I believe you have enough information to sort this one out now. Just carefully familiarize yourself with how it all works, and spend some quiet time. Come back when you have substantive information to report.

Do not go stretching or shortening springs, or filing on anything, or anything non-OEM. Just report back when you have something definitive. Relax and enjoy the learning process.

You can fake the machine into believing that it has a tape in it, by pushing, and holding, the cassette presence sensor retainer, in the lower right of the transport. Then when you hit FF you can put resistance on the take-up reel and see if it slips or provides nice consistent torque. Put it in REW and do the same, but you will have to rock the take-up reel back an forth to fake tape motion, or the deck will stop in a couple of seconds.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Last edited:
pustelniakr said:
Condition of rubber drive surfaces and cleanliness of the surfaces driven by them; proper assembly and condition of the drive linkage, overall; condition/packing of the tape being driven; etc. Operation with the face off should tell you where the drive slipping, if any, is occurring. I believe you have enough information to sort this one out now. Just carefully familiarize yourself with how it all works, and spend some quiet time. Come back when you have substantive information to report.

Do not go stretching or shortening springs, or filing on anything, or anything non-OEM. Just report back when you have something definitive. Relax and enjoy the learning process.

You can fake the machine into believing that it has a tape in it, by pushing up, and holding, the cassette retainer, in the top middle of the transport. Then when you hit FF you can put resistance on the take-up reel and see if it slips or provides nice consistent torque. Put it in REW and do the same, but you will have to rock the take-up reel back an forth to fake tape motion, or the deck will stop in a couple of seconds.

Enjoy,
Rich P
Click to expand...
Just found the package from joe with the grease in it .what gets grease on it?
 
troutfisher said:
Just found the package from joe with the grease in it .what gets grease on it?
Click to expand...
Joe's package comes with detailed instructions. Follow those. If no instructions to apply lube, don't apply any and put it away for another project.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
took the clutch apart again and cleaned put back together and now it works great.
know the next problem very low volume.. can barely hear it thru headphone or when plugged into the system ?any place to start would be helpful
 
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