Pioneer PL-530 Platter removal
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It should just pull off. Try a drop or 2 of penetrating oil on the centre shaft and let it sit and try again if it won't budge. Wipe off the oil afterwards.
There is an excellent thread going on now about that, give a quick search and you;ll find some excellent info.
I'll see if I can find it.
Here we go. Same procedure.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169171
The platter is a tapered fit onto the shaft, and can get wedged on pretty tight. Don't give up, but don't jam your bearings.
I'll see if I can find it.
Here we go. Same procedure.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169171
The platter is a tapered fit onto the shaft, and can get wedged on pretty tight. Don't give up, but don't jam your bearings.
hakaplan
Needs professional help
Yes, see post #18. Being this is direct drive, it's not quite as touchy as the belt drive platter bearings, but still be careful.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169171
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169171
I just finished working over a 530, and here are a few helpful hints.
The tonearm mounting body is plastic. Dont torque on it, or apply any force to where it mounts onto the chassis. Mine was totally stripped out at the bushings, reset them with epoxy.
The tone arm lead-in groove stylus positioning screw for auto mode is in the hole to the left of the tonearm body pivot. Helpful for fine tuning.
There is a muting circuit that is cam driven off the separate tonearm motor. It operates a set of reed switches underneath the deck, so there is no groove noise when the stylus lifts off the record.
Mine had dirty contacts, so gave me the dickens trying to find the source of intermittent left channel cutout. Finally figured it out, and cleaned the points with emery paper.
All good now!
The tonearm mounting body is plastic. Dont torque on it, or apply any force to where it mounts onto the chassis. Mine was totally stripped out at the bushings, reset them with epoxy.
The tone arm lead-in groove stylus positioning screw for auto mode is in the hole to the left of the tonearm body pivot. Helpful for fine tuning.
There is a muting circuit that is cam driven off the separate tonearm motor. It operates a set of reed switches underneath the deck, so there is no groove noise when the stylus lifts off the record.
Mine had dirty contacts, so gave me the dickens trying to find the source of intermittent left channel cutout. Finally figured it out, and cleaned the points with emery paper.
All good now!
