I do pin them to reduce the chances of solder shrinkage over time. (I want NO comebacks biting me down the road) But simply sucking off the old solder and fresh resoldering works fine as long as you're sure both sides are good.
In fact that's what I did to one of my 9090DB Dolby boards and it is 10 years since still working 100% fine.
It's a real PITA to get access to that board being sandwiched between 2 others and under a lip of the chassis... I loosened the front panel enough to "stretch" the tuner string to it's limit and there was just enough space to get that board out to work on. But some of the joints can be done without removing it. Of course they all will need done anyways.. It is much easier to destring the tuner to get it out of the way to get the board out. But can be done either way. I chose to destring my 9001 making life a lot easier. And restringing really is pretty easy on these.. But not if you've never done it before, it's very intimidating
the first time.
I have to make an FFT plot with those,as soon as I can... barely have time for audio stuff lately
Thanks Bob, I saw those last night when I was looking at the schematic. Then I looked at the SM and saw that they were fusible resistors!
They are all 22 Ω. I have a couple of those on hand, and so replaced the one for the dial pointer, and viola, the light came on. The original measured 500 kΩ! I'll need 4 more for the meters, but I've only got one on hand. May need to scrounge around to see if I can find some. Otherwise, what range might work? I've got a bunch of 10 and 150 Ω resistors from replacing those on the driver boards.Like Bob says, you can use two 10 Ohm in series and be close enough, but there is limited space at the meters. You can check on that and if there is room, use 'em. Alternatively I can mail you four 22 Ohm metal film (or oxide if I have them) resistors if you need them. No sense in spending 8 bucks in shipping for a couple of seldom used resistors, unless you're adding them to another needed order. You replacing the bulbs is good anyways since you don't really know how many hours are on them. Now you know they are "zero" hours.Thanks Bob, I saw those last night when I was looking at the schematic. Then I looked at the SM and saw that they were fusible resistors!
Thanks guys. I was able to locate some 26 Ω resistors, so that will be close enough, I think. They are carbon film, which shouldn't be a problem in this application, right?Like Bob says, you can use two 10 Ohm in series and be close enough, but there is limited space at the meters. You can check on that and if there is room, use 'em. Alternatively I can mail you four 22 Ohm metal film (or oxide if I have them) resistors if you need them. No sense in spending 8 bucks in shipping for a couple of seldom used resistors, unless you're adding them to another needed order. You replacing the bulbs is good anyways since you don't really know how many hours are on them. Now you know they are "zero" hours.
I'm not so sure I would want to use carbon film since they generate heat for voltage drop, unless they are at least 1/2 watt. PM me your mailing address and I'll toss a few in an envelope, paste a stamp on it, and send them on their way. Might as well do 'er right so it lasts many decades, and all the lamps the same brightness.Thanks guys. I was able to locate some 26 Ω resistors, so that will be close enough, I think. They are carbon film, which shouldn't be a problem in this application, right?
Yes, the way they are mounted on the meters there is not much room in there, so I could put two 10 Ω in series, but I think I'd have to get creative about the mounting. I had just two 22 Ω resistors left over from when I restored the driver board on my 9090, otherwise, I've had no call for them. As you say, they are seldom used. It's such a massive undertaking to open the 8001 up to get at these components, that I don't wan to do it again!
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Thanks Kev, this is going to replace the QR-6500/QSD-2 in my main quad system. I went after the 8001 because they are much less expensive than a 9001 and I did not need to deal with the dolby board. You get an extra input/output with the "Adapter" switch, though it is only 2 channel. I agree it was intimidating at first, but going slow and having patience pays off. Looking back I'm kind of surprised it was not more difficult for me, but I am much better at repairs now than I was a couple of years ago. That YouTube video of taking apart the unit and pining the pass throughs was also a ton of help and gave me confidence to proceed.
