Record Cleaning: Developing the Best Possible Methods
- Thread starter guest110
- Start date
- Status
Dukerbud88
New Member
I understand you were the one that posted this link initially so I thank you. Had I known I would't have posted my thread. Can I buy some off of you?? I am in Hamilton. Just throwing it out there.
kceateva
Active Member
hey its this the one to get it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triton-X-10...hash=item2c9b571c5d:m:mLqYWo6Risj9Xv1wdKvqTEA
Dukerbud88
New Member
Vince, can I ask a very silly and naive question??
In regards to the Photoflo. If I am utilizing the process of 1/4 Iso Alcohol, 3 /4 Distilled and 4-5 drops of the Photoflo. Is there any reason for the process of the aforementioned solution spread on the record, vacuumed off. Then rinse, vacuumed off. Then rinsed again, vacuumed off. Is there any reason with that process there will be a threat to my records and/or the stylus? Without speaking chemical jargon and in layman's terms can you explain if this method is ok and if not what are the consequences and why?? Keeping within the process I described above.
Many Many Thanks
Darrin (Dukerbud)
Sorry, I can't explain this without some chemistry because it is the chemicals involved and their interaction with the vinyl surface that we need to be concerned with. Photoflo is not recommended because it is mostly propylene glycol (up to 30%, while the surfactant alcohol is merely 5%) which is a coating agent and may remain on your album even after the water washes (i say MAY because nobody seems to have done the study on vinyl records, but it is well-documented as coating on films). That said, you are using it at such a dilution where it shouldn't be a problem, but why use it if you can do better with a non-ionic detergent? Also, you are using way too high a alcohol concentration (up to 25%) which is not recommended due to solubilization of plasticizers incorporated in the vinyl. Again, nobody has done a comprehensive study using different alcohol concentrations, but the plasticizers are known to be soluble in alcohol and you can put 66% on a PVC object, remove it after less than a minute, and measure extracted components (by mass-spectroscopy-see reference below for example) so why risk it?
http://www.academia.edu/9376344/A_m...inyl_chloride_surfaces_of_collections_objects
Totally different. Detergents will solubilize contaminants while enzymes have activity....they digest (or catalyze the break down of ) the contaminants into soluble bits. For rough records, the enzyme step followed by detergent is tough to beat. For average records, the enzymatic step isn't needed. Typical enzyme mixes should have a lipase to digest fats, a protease to digest proteins, and an amylase or other enzyme to break down carbs into simple sugars. Microbial contaminants like molds use protein, fat, and sugar components to bind to the record, so enzymes help release these contaminants as well (while also removing their food source).
Hope this helps.
Dukerbud88
New Member
I sooo appreciate your quick response.
Now, may I ask how this compares to the Ilfotol as a replacement for the Photoflo?? Based on my above process.
Trust me (Me) we are only questioning you for your expertise. NEVER to challenge you.
kceateva
Active Member
yes help a ton! So I kind of now see why people have two step process when cleaning records. So wouldn't a good rout be enzyme mix then use triton mix, and if one did do that rout there would really no need to use alcohol in the triton mix?
Yes. However, a small amount of alcohol has it's advantages as it:
1) Affects the surface tension of the aqueous solution in a way that helps the liquid disperse across the vinyl surface (as does the detergent)
2) Gives antimicrobial properties to the solution
3) Helps solubilize certain contaminants
4) Aids in drying
Of course, all these depend on how much alcohol is in the mix, but 5% is enough to keep microbes from growing so that should be good. If you make your wash solution fresh each time, no alcohol is needed. Enzyme mixes should be made fresh...I previously posted a DIY protocol using digestive enzymes, but commercial record cleaning preparations are also available. Enzymes are protein and will stick to your vinyl if you let these preparations dry on your record so keep them wet at all times. The good thing is that they are only required in very small amounts so this usually isn't much of a problem.
LotusFool
Well-Known Member
I have one of those $80 "Spin Clean" as seen here;
https://www.audiogeeks.com/accessor...e&sku_id=367&gclid=CMmuk6aYyMoCFc4YHwodjWoJag
I just ordered the Triton X-100 and thanks to all these post will really clean my vinyl now. But I read somewhere in of these post that after the cleaning you should rinse the record off.
Rinse with what?
DI or distilled water??
Thanks,
Gary
https://www.audiogeeks.com/accessor...e&sku_id=367&gclid=CMmuk6aYyMoCFc4YHwodjWoJag
I just ordered the Triton X-100 and thanks to all these post will really clean my vinyl now. But I read somewhere in of these post that after the cleaning you should rinse the record off.
Rinse with what?
DI or distilled water??
Thanks,
Gary
Just as you rinse your dishes after hand-washing with soap, you need to rinse the detergent off your records as it has solubilized the contaminants you wish to remove. It doesn't matter whether you use de-ionized or distilled, the objective is to leave the least amount of residue behind after drying. Both types of purified water can vary depending on how clean or recently serviced the purification equipment is. You can buy inexpensive meters that can tell you the amount of dissolved solids, or just examine a record after drying and look for white-ish residues (like salt). Most commercial preparations are pretty good. I recommend at least two water rinses. A vacuum really helps with the extractions here and allows for quick drying.
LotusFool
Well-Known Member
Thanks Vince.
What I do now is after rotating the LP three times in each direction, is to dry off the LP with the "special" lint free cloths they provided with the kit. I usually don't get the LP completely dry, and figured if it were still a little wet, what could that hurt.
I can see rinsing the record off with DI over my kitchen sink could use a lot of DI. I get it for free where I work, but it will be a PITA because it would be very heavy to bring a lot home.
Use it in your spin clean: Spray jet records with tap spray over a sink to remove large particles, wash records with detergent in Spinclean, rinse quickly with tap spray over sink and put on dish rack, wash out Spin clean and fill with dH2O, then spin clean records in this dwater rinse, change dwater after 1 pass then spin again and dry. (The prewash spray is important when using a Spinclean on really dirty records so you remove stuff like sand, dirt, or fibers and don't grind it across the grooves. It also assumes your tap is free of mineral deposits. otherwise, replace the tap rinses with dH20 spray from a spray bottle).
Kceateva:
Shelf life depends on the purity of water and glassware you use, but you can add IPA to 5% and/or keep it in the fridge to extend for many weeks. It's easy enough to take a drop of the concentrate and make a fresh batch from the 100% stock each time though, so this is what I typically do.
FWIW I use a handheld garden sprayer with warm (100º) dH2O and give a really good pressurized rinse. Really helps. I collect rinse water in a tub and it is grey and dirty. And this is after quite a thorough cleaning regimen previously mentioned in this thread
Excellent idea. There's nothing like power washes! They are standard practice in industrial operations and parts manufacturing for good reason.
And those handheld garden sprayers if you buy a high quality one (like I did) can push 45 PSI.
- Status