Rectilinear
- Thread starter ohiomike
- Start date
Leben
Super Member
It’s somewhat common for the mids to be overdriven on these since they are covering a large range. I’ve had success checking and resoldering the tinsel leads on ones that aren’t working. Also, check the pots on the back of the speaker. There’s a chance that turning them back and forth a few times or spraying Deoxit in them might get the mid working again. Good luck.
And sometimes all it takes is a little careful work with a chisel to shake it loose.
That's a shame - - those Phillips mids are terrific and the "soul" of the speaker, IMO. On one of these, I once had a fussy terminal and wire connection - - - so even though it's a PITA, you might want to dig out that mid driver and inspect further. Usually, this means removing silicone adhesive to remove the mid from it's container.
teal'c
Nuclear Cardiac Parent
Unfortunately the ones I was hoping for got posted in D&S and were gone the next day. I'll keep looking though.
I agree. I posted pics of the backs of the woofers. One had a Rectilinear sticker on it, the other did not, but both with the numbers are what I posted.
Visually, each looks just like others I've seen that were originals.
But man are those control panels glued solidly....lol. Its going to be a tedious job getting them out without breaking anything.....lol
I'm trying de oxing the potentiometer switches hoping it helps before looking for the correct replacement. Keeping my fingers crossed......lol
My board seems to have been fully glued down solid. Tryin to work a blade under to help cut the glue because its not giving one bit. It even came out through the empty holes in the board.
Slo n ez does it.
I meant the back of the actual speaker itself. There may be a sticker there with the serial number of the speaker itself. I have them, and oddly enough, I don't have sequential number, mine actually skip a number. Not sure what happened to the missing one in the middle.
This speaker with the cellulose insulation is the earlier model. The two round things are the rotary controls for adjustable tweeter and midrange output. The two squarish metal wrapped devices at far left and right are inductor coils - I assume one for the mid and one for the woofer. These should require no further attention - - leave as is. The brown rectangular component in the center is a fixed resistor - - looks like it's connected to tweeter circuit, and again, no reason to touch this unless you see signs of burning.
The black cylinder at the top is the capacitor for the midrange - - this should be removed and replaced with a new cap of similar value, but higher voltage is OK. Same for the red striped component - - this is the 2.2uF tweeter cap - - remove and replace with new.
The black cylinder at the top is the capacitor for the midrange - - this should be removed and replaced with a new cap of similar value, but higher voltage is OK. Same for the red striped component - - this is the 2.2uF tweeter cap - - remove and replace with new.
ra.ra, As I wait for parts to re cap the speaker we talked about, I tore into the other unit and it seems to be wired quite differently using different components. It appears to have been worked on prior because I found bits of old solder and clipped wire ends in the bottom of the cabinet. Therre is that same red/green/white cap as in the other spkr, but the larger cap has different values. Its a Temple 303-60uf 50 vnp. I considered getting two of all the caps so I could do both speakers, but now am glad I did not.
Well now... that is a bit perplexing and clearly your "pair" has one speaker each of two different iterations of the Rect-III. This is just as we suspected, and the possibility of different cap values for the mid driver was mentioned in posts #63, 70, and 79. The smaller cap value (60uF) results in a slightly higher crossover frequency, and I assume this was fully intentional in order for the mid to blend with that particular woofer.
The rotary controls appear to be from different suppliers but this should be of no concern. Also, the RH speaker has an additional resistor - - again, most likely you should leave "as-is". The most curious thing is the significant difference in wiring, and it is difficult to assess this without having schematic circuits drawn up. To put your mind at ease (and simply for additional information), you might spend some time sifting through the many AK threads on the Rect-III to try to confirm similar circuit arrangements.
Good to see that you were able to remove the x-o boards, but I'm surprised you did not confirm the silver cap (60uF) before ordering parts for both cabinets. My suggestion would be: replace both striped caps with new 2.2uF caps; replace the black cap with some parallel combination to make new 90uF; replace the silver cap with parallel combination to make new 60uF; and spray/clean the rotary controls. Re-attach all loose wires, replace internal stuffing, re-assemble baffle boards, then plug-n-play.
More experienced Rect-III owners may have better or more specific advice, but you might drive yourself nuts trying to fully understand the variations in these two specimens. They are slightly different speakers designed to the same standards, so it'd be best to replace any removed components with "like" values.
The rotary controls appear to be from different suppliers but this should be of no concern. Also, the RH speaker has an additional resistor - - again, most likely you should leave "as-is". The most curious thing is the significant difference in wiring, and it is difficult to assess this without having schematic circuits drawn up. To put your mind at ease (and simply for additional information), you might spend some time sifting through the many AK threads on the Rect-III to try to confirm similar circuit arrangements.
Good to see that you were able to remove the x-o boards, but I'm surprised you did not confirm the silver cap (60uF) before ordering parts for both cabinets. My suggestion would be: replace both striped caps with new 2.2uF caps; replace the black cap with some parallel combination to make new 90uF; replace the silver cap with parallel combination to make new 60uF; and spray/clean the rotary controls. Re-attach all loose wires, replace internal stuffing, re-assemble baffle boards, then plug-n-play.
More experienced Rect-III owners may have better or more specific advice, but you might drive yourself nuts trying to fully understand the variations in these two specimens. They are slightly different speakers designed to the same standards, so it'd be best to replace any removed components with "like" values.