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Replacement woofers for Altec A-7?

Hey DGWOJO,

Nice picks!

Thanks for the info.

I failed to mention that mine are 416b's. I have reinstalled my def tech 15" sub in the system, with the x-over set at 100hz. Made the decision based on advice given here. I believe the mistakes I made with it before were mainly placement, and having x-over set too low. This is an active sub, and there are some differences in dynamics. But at moderate levels it seems to be working fairly well.

My original intent was to eliminate need for a separate subwoofer. But, judging from advice taken, and my own experience, this just isn't going to happen.

Just trying to save some space in the 'room, don'tchaknow?

Brother Dave:smoke:
 
Nice picks!

Thanks for the info.

I failed to mention that mine are 416b's. I have reinstalled my def tech 15" sub in the system, with the x-over set at 100hz. Made the decision based on advice given here. I believe the mistakes I made with it before were mainly placement, and having x-over set too low. This is an active sub, and there are some differences in dynamics. But at moderate levels it seems to be working fairly well.

My original intent was to eliminate need for a separate subwoofer. But, judging from advice taken, and my own experience, this just isn't going to happen.

Just trying to save some space in the 'room, don'tchaknow?

Brother Dave:smoke:
Are your 416-8B's original cone number 21184's?? If so, those should perform just great, OK, I admit it, I always run my loudness button and an IMX expander, that's what works for me!! :music:

RCA/Ratshack 31-5001
 
The best I ever heard A-7's was in a system where the bass was filled in below 80Hz with a well matched sub - problem is, that sub was a massive horn-loaded piece that made the A-7's look domestically friendly by comparison. :)


That sounds cool :smoke: Got a link or pics?

I'm currently supplementing the bottom end of my A7s with a stereo pair of JBL 2242Hs in a 9cf EBS enclosure.......C
 
I'm doin like dgwojo is. The loudness switch works quite, well as does a little boost with an EQ for low to moderate levels. Of course when bi-amped niether is really needed.
 
That sounds cool :smoke: Got a link or pics?

I'm currently supplementing the bottom end of my A7s with a stereo pair of JBL 2242Hs in a 9cf EBS enclosure.......C
There are some pics and a brief description of the A-7/Lab horn sub set-up I heard at the second Midwest Audiofest here (under the Chicago Horn Club heading).
 
Resurrecting this old thread because I recently acquired a pair of Altec A7 cabinets with 811B horns, (no drivers, woofers, x-overs) and want to populate them with new reasonably priced components for use in my wood shop.

In post #6 of this thread, bowtie427ss recommends drivers with a Qts of less than .24...in post #7, dnewma04 recommends the Usher 15PA which bowtie agrees with. Looking up the Usher driver, I see that the Qts is .43..... a little confusing since I have no speaker design knowledge.

Can someone recommend a low frequency driver as well as a horn driver and crossover for the A7 cabinets? Or at least some pertinent specifications to help me choose a set of drivers... As I said, they will be used in my woodshop so I don't want to use valuable vintage Altec components.
 
You can essentially run any woofer in them that will bolt up, and it will work until you either exceed the mechanical or electrical limits of the woofer, or the cone/surround physically contacts the motorboard(you'll un-mistakably hear when that happens).

How higher qts drivers will behave in a small VOT box is not exactly predictable.

I've probably bolted up a few dozen various drivers in VOT's over time. Some woofers with parameters that suggest horn loading wouldn't work at all, actually sound quite good in an 825/825 at any reasonable hifi volume.

Remember, it's only a horn load from around 100hz up. Below that it's more or less a bass reflex alignment. But, not exactly as the driver is still firing into a constrained throat, and against the acoustic load of the horn section.
 
Dayton!

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-080

A few of us have tried these and I have not heard anyone say a bad thing about them.

I built this set with the Daytons and can't be happier with them.

I also think they fit the same bolt pattern and they go on sale every now and then for $99 each.

Rated for 500 watts and 700 peaks and they do pump some amazing lows!

Gary

Impressive DIY speakers.

In addition to the Dayton woofers, what do you use for the segmented wave guides and the driver for the horns, Altec OEM or other vendors?

Also, what did you use for a crossover?

Where did you obtain a schematic for the cabinets?

I am always curious since I have a lot of respect for the Altec speakers but have never owned a pair.
 
You can essentially run any woofer in them that will bolt up, and it will work until you either exceed the mechanical or electrical limits of the woofer, or the cone/surround physically contacts the motorboard(you'll un-mistakably hear when that happens).

How higher qts drivers will behave in a small VOT box is not exactly predictable.

I've probably bolted up a few dozen various drivers in VOT's over time. Some woofers with parameters that suggest horn loading wouldn't work at all, actually sound quite good in an 825/825 at any reasonable hifi volume.

Remember, it's only a horn load from around 100hz up. Below that it's more or less a bass reflex alignment. But, not exactly as the driver is still firing into a constrained throat, and against the acoustic load of the horn section.

So lower Qts it is. The Dayton that dnewma04 suggested is about .24 which was what you recommended in an earlier post.

What is 825/825?
 
I tried the Dayton PA-380s when I first got my cabs. before any cab mods. They were ok but the JBL G-135 8a that are in there now have sweeter upper range. Bass was very similar even though the Daytons claim 28hz to the JBL 40hz.
Had some Altec 619 ceiling duplex(tweeters removed) in mine for awhile. Seemed even sweeter yet but burnt a voice coil in one - Yamaha M-65 too much.
 
I tried the Dayton PA-380s when I first got my cabs. before any cab mods. They were ok but the JBL G-135 8a that are in there now have sweeter upper range. Bass was very similar even though the Daytons claim 28hz to the JBL 40hz.
Had some Altec 619 ceiling duplex(tweeters removed) in mine for awhile. Seemed even sweeter yet but burnt a voice coil in one - Yamaha M-65 too much.

Most of the Eminence drivers are around 40hz as well so I'm wondering if Dayton is stretching it a bit?
 
Do you want the real deal, Great Plains Audio has them.

I would like the real deal but not for my woodshop. In an earlier thread I was going to use my Valencia's there but got some raised eyebrow posts...

The idea is to use some less valuable but good sounding drivers in the A7 cabs where they'll be subjected to wood dust and the occasional wood projectile...
 
What is 825/828?

A7s use two similar cabs, 825 and later 828. i have a pair of scratch built 828s. love em.

corner loaded in a 11' by 12.5' room, and against the far wall the bass just rattles my lungs
 
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