isaeagle4031
Member
Those would be the Dayton ND105-4's. The 3" version is very similar to the Auras. These little things have quite a bit of output potential and low bass. Seriously, 40 hz is possible with these little suckers!
Show us your DIY speaker projects!
- Thread starter Dan ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
- Start date
invalidbuffa
Super Member
Tuba HT
This is the current state of my Tuba HT. I still need to caulk a few places and sand a couple of proud edges and then the side can go on. It will be loaded with a Dayton RSS390HF-4 powered by a Oaudio Bash 300W plate amp
This is the current state of my Tuba HT. I still need to caulk a few places and sand a couple of proud edges and then the side can go on. It will be loaded with a Dayton RSS390HF-4 powered by a Oaudio Bash 300W plate amp
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audiozaz
rtfm!? - tl;dr
This is the current state of my Tuba HT. I still need to caulk a few places and sand a couple of proud edges and then the side can go on. It will be loaded with a Dayton RSS390HF-4 powered by a Oaudio Bash 300W plate amp
I could see David Bowie hanging out at the center of this thing.
az
tiga
Super Member
Nice - did you port the cabinet in the back? what are your cabinet dimensions? I have a pair of the B20's that I was going to put into some Advent 3002 cabinets - but wasn't sure if the size would be right.
GRS 8FR8 from PE. Copy of Pioneer B20.
Cabinet dimensions also from PE.
Just finished them tonight
RamblinE
(╯°□°)╯彡┻━┻
Hey Tiga, hope this helps you out.
I got my dimensions from the Q&A section here http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=292-430 There's three different designs there. The one I used is 17-3/4" H x 11" W x 9" D.
dc270
Now Off the Reservation
Klipsch Cornwall 1 Upgrade
This was an exciting project to have undertaken. I found these stock Cornweall 1's on my local CL for $500. They played fine- but I knew they had the potential for a whole lot more.
Here is what work/ items that were "touched".
Back pannels screw terminal replaced with HD 5 way binding posts. A 2" x 3" whole was cut out so they could fit flush.
The two horns were moved to the frontfor improved propigation.
The T35 tweeters were changed out for a Crites CT125's
ALK type crossovers were built and installed-MAJOR sound improvements here!
The horn lens and woofer frames were hush mat wrapped to prevent ring through.
Toe boards repaired, repainted and (four per cab) HD 2" carpet rollers were installed.
Both cabinets were strip sanded and refinished with 3 coats of hand rubbed poly.
Internal bracing was installed.
I still want to put some sound deadening material on the front baffle around the horn areas and finish painting the front baffles. I will need to re-work the original grill covers to fit properly as well.
As for the sound........very much improved. Incredible definition and presence, great imaging and clairity. If you want the formula for the ultimate Cornwall 1's then this is it! I would even venture to sat they are an improvement over the CW II & III models as well!
Thanks for looking!
DC
This was an exciting project to have undertaken. I found these stock Cornweall 1's on my local CL for $500. They played fine- but I knew they had the potential for a whole lot more.
Here is what work/ items that were "touched".
Back pannels screw terminal replaced with HD 5 way binding posts. A 2" x 3" whole was cut out so they could fit flush.
The two horns were moved to the frontfor improved propigation.
The T35 tweeters were changed out for a Crites CT125's
ALK type crossovers were built and installed-MAJOR sound improvements here!
The horn lens and woofer frames were hush mat wrapped to prevent ring through.
Toe boards repaired, repainted and (four per cab) HD 2" carpet rollers were installed.
Both cabinets were strip sanded and refinished with 3 coats of hand rubbed poly.
Internal bracing was installed.
I still want to put some sound deadening material on the front baffle around the horn areas and finish painting the front baffles. I will need to re-work the original grill covers to fit properly as well.
As for the sound........very much improved. Incredible definition and presence, great imaging and clairity. If you want the formula for the ultimate Cornwall 1's then this is it! I would even venture to sat they are an improvement over the CW II & III models as well!
Thanks for looking!
DC
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Copa1934
My ears are bleeding
Weird, I replaced the Peerless 8"ers in my Optimus LX8's with B20's though mine are not the wizzer. Still, the mid improvement was very noticeable. can't say, yet, there are any other improvements, though I did add more stuffing to help smooth them out some.
invalidbuffa
Super Member
Just finished my Tuba HT sub. It's a real air mover.
old geezer
Member
Here's my project. These are "el cheapo" speakers. Max power handling about 35 watts, they're about 90 db/1 watt ( if I believe the specs) and since I ended up choosing ported, rather than sealed, I had to buy an extra sheet of MDF. Otherwise, I would have ended up with a total of $110 in them. Since I changed my mind near the end, they're ported and the boxes are bigger, requiring 3 sheets of MDF.
They're 50.5 in tall, 24 in wide, 21.5 deep. And not quite done. I assembled them without the "stuffing" in the midrange chamber, and no insulation yet in the rest.
I've never built speakers before, I"m not a carpenter at all, and I have never owned any real "hi-fi" gear before. I still really don't. I am using a 100W Sure class D (tripath) amp, and they're hooked to the tv and media pc.
I installed a tone generator in the pc and at 25 - 30 hz, they'll make your ears hurt...easily. Not to mention, the house is rumbling, too.
Anyway, the woofers cross over at 350 hz, the midranges are 3x5 "full range" ovals (panasonic) and the tweeters are unknown brand. The woofers are Sammi. Don't remember the part number. Not on Sammi's website.
Anyway... they're not impressive to any of you, I'm sure. But the sound sure is - to me.
they're not impressive in any way, except the size... And the sound ( to me) They do reproduce the heavy, low frequency rumbles in movies (tried it out) and they easily blow you away ( I felt like I was in a rock concert, but the db meter says it only hit 87 db...) and nothing sounds harsh or strange.
I'm sure you guys with expensive stuff and fancy amps can blow these away, but I am really enjoying them. Isn't that what it's about anyway?
They're 50.5 in tall, 24 in wide, 21.5 deep. And not quite done. I assembled them without the "stuffing" in the midrange chamber, and no insulation yet in the rest.
I've never built speakers before, I"m not a carpenter at all, and I have never owned any real "hi-fi" gear before. I still really don't. I am using a 100W Sure class D (tripath) amp, and they're hooked to the tv and media pc.
I installed a tone generator in the pc and at 25 - 30 hz, they'll make your ears hurt...easily. Not to mention, the house is rumbling, too.
Anyway, the woofers cross over at 350 hz, the midranges are 3x5 "full range" ovals (panasonic) and the tweeters are unknown brand. The woofers are Sammi. Don't remember the part number. Not on Sammi's website.
Anyway... they're not impressive to any of you, I'm sure. But the sound sure is - to me.
they're not impressive in any way, except the size... And the sound ( to me) They do reproduce the heavy, low frequency rumbles in movies (tried it out) and they easily blow you away ( I felt like I was in a rock concert, but the db meter says it only hit 87 db...) and nothing sounds harsh or strange.
I'm sure you guys with expensive stuff and fancy amps can blow these away, but I am really enjoying them. Isn't that what it's about anyway?
TerryO
Super Member
Here's a couple more (see post #320 for another one) of my DIY speakers:
The speaker on the left is the "Hi-Tweek Black Box Nearfield Monitor" which was an all-out attempt to create the "ultimate" single driver speaker using a Max-modded Radio Shack 40-1197 driver. It has always gotten rather favorable comments in the various shows and speaker contests in which it was entered.
Dan Wiggins measured it (using Praxis) at a contest, and found it had an "In Room" FR of plus/minus 1.5 dB from 65 Hz to 17 kHz. He claimed that was one of the best FR measurements he's ever made.
The other pair is my "Big Money" speakers, a Rosgaard DR-1 design which I built pretty much to the plans. I did a slight change in the crossover, which is a series, rather than a parallel design. Dave used his proprietary Series Crossover Software for designing, what is an absolutely wonderful sounding speaker. (With Dave's new KT88 SET amplifier, it is just amazing.)
A big part of the sound is due to careful use of "APTS" in the critically sensitive sonic boundary areas. The costly (and superb) finish applied to the cabinet represents an investment of approximately $70,000,000.
The Big Money speaker placed first in class (2-way) and 2nd place (runner-up) for Best of Show at "The Puget Sound! DIY Speaker Contest" a few years ago.
Best Regards,
TerryO
The speaker on the left is the "Hi-Tweek Black Box Nearfield Monitor" which was an all-out attempt to create the "ultimate" single driver speaker using a Max-modded Radio Shack 40-1197 driver. It has always gotten rather favorable comments in the various shows and speaker contests in which it was entered.
Dan Wiggins measured it (using Praxis) at a contest, and found it had an "In Room" FR of plus/minus 1.5 dB from 65 Hz to 17 kHz. He claimed that was one of the best FR measurements he's ever made.
The other pair is my "Big Money" speakers, a Rosgaard DR-1 design which I built pretty much to the plans. I did a slight change in the crossover, which is a series, rather than a parallel design. Dave used his proprietary Series Crossover Software for designing, what is an absolutely wonderful sounding speaker. (With Dave's new KT88 SET amplifier, it is just amazing.)
A big part of the sound is due to careful use of "APTS" in the critically sensitive sonic boundary areas. The costly (and superb) finish applied to the cabinet represents an investment of approximately $70,000,000.
The Big Money speaker placed first in class (2-way) and 2nd place (runner-up) for Best of Show at "The Puget Sound! DIY Speaker Contest" a few years ago.
Best Regards,
TerryO
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old geezer
Member
Damn old geezer, that's some large enclosures!
I don't know the woofer you use nor its specs, but with that large a box, you might just want to watch for over-excursion not to damage the driver. If it sounds good to you, it's all that matters! :thmbsp:
az
Well, the specs for the woofer give a VAS of 6.46 cubic feet. And winISD wants a 10.7 cubic foot cabinet, tuned to around 28 hz. Playing around a bit, I found you can go slightly oversize, tune it to slightly lower frequency, and change the port to a 4 inch... 3/4 of an inch long. Which is just a hole in the wood.
It apparently works!
So, they're ported, by cutting a 4 inch diameter hole with a holesaw
I don't run them at high power, as the wife has a hissy fit when you hit 80db sound level.
With a 4mm total travel, that is an issue, I understand. Is there some way to tell if it goes over?
audiozaz
rtfm!? - tl;dr
Cool stuff TerryO!
old geezer, is 4mm the Xmax spec? If so, the woofer should be able to travel some more still, but start to produce more distortion though. You should be able to tell by watching the cone travel somewhat. I guess watch out with movie LF effects, turntable rumble or bass-heavy music, depending on what you listen to.
az
old geezer, is 4mm the Xmax spec? If so, the woofer should be able to travel some more still, but start to produce more distortion though. You should be able to tell by watching the cone travel somewhat. I guess watch out with movie LF effects, turntable rumble or bass-heavy music, depending on what you listen to.
az
Here are pix of what I did with the Barzilay cabs. They look great from the factory but are really flimsy. 5/8" partical board with 1/8" veneer. As you can see they are really well braced not and solid as a rock....heavy as a rock as well.
That is a JBL E140 woof I will use for the time being until my Lambda TD15H woofers get reconed. WinISD says they will die at 60hz but that is OK as I have 4 subs to pick up the slack.
Here is the copper sheet waiting for the contact cement to dry
Here is the anvil pressing down over night
I didn't brace the backs so I put Dynamat on it the covered with with a thin sheet of wool then a thin sheet of fiberglass.
That is a JBL E140 woof I will use for the time being until my Lambda TD15H woofers get reconed. WinISD says they will die at 60hz but that is OK as I have 4 subs to pick up the slack.
Here is the copper sheet waiting for the contact cement to dry
Here is the anvil pressing down over night
I didn't brace the backs so I put Dynamat on it the covered with with a thin sheet of wool then a thin sheet of fiberglass.
Duckzilla
"Laugh it up fuzzball"
My feeble attempts at speakers pale in comparison to others in this thread, but I'm not embarrassed to share! The first pics are of my rear-channel tubular subs, using a 3' x 1' diameter tube, with a pair of Peerless India 8" woofs ($5 ea from PE) firing in a push-pull config. Their output is ideal as rear-channel subs, but would not have enough output as mains subs. The second couple of pics show my tower subs, 42" x 13" x 15" using a single Soundstream "The Mule" 12" driver ea. They're not complicated, built with 3/4" MDF, with panels making the walls 1.5" thick, used 1" edge battens, shelf braces, and weigh 93lbs ea loaded. They must be successful, since I now find it impossible to keep the smoke detectors mounted on the ceiling of the ground floor.
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TankPopper
Well-Known Member
Heres My first and only project as of date.. a pair of 15 inch Tannoy dual concentrics (3809 model drivers):
I made them from 2.7 mm thick birch plywood.. and they weigh in at a wopping 100 Kg each!
here are pictures (and a video) of the entire project:
I made them from 2.7 mm thick birch plywood.. and they weigh in at a wopping 100 Kg each!
here are pictures (and a video
) of the entire project:
audiozaz
rtfm!? - tl;dr
Here are pix of what I did with the Barzilay cabs. They look great from the factory but are really flimsy. 5/8" partical board with 1/8" veneer. As you can see they are really well braced not and solid as a rock....heavy as a rock as well.
That is a JBL E140 woof I will use for the time being until my Lambda TD15H woofers get reconed. WinISD says they will die at 60hz but that is OK as I have 4 subs to pick up the slack.
Cool, but is that OFC?
When you say "die" at 60Hz, do you mean f3 or f10?
az