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SX-1010 won't Power On...

I don't recall taking an inch of red, blue and ?? wires and extending the transistor over to the heatsink. The only replacement I made were the output transistors and the STV-3H diode. I believe you're giving me credit for ccheath's work?? :scratch2:

Seems that you need to sleep for 2-3 days... at least :D
 
2 to 3 day sentence for thinking ccheath and typing DEK, then mentioning your loading test in his reply? Working with two sx-1010 repair threads that need rather intense monitoring and instruction? Just after waking up? And after one guy crossed the two threads? Look at the time stamps. 3:30 am and 12:11 pm

What about those ohmmeter readings I have been asking for? No less the tests for that possibly overheated power supply you mentioned?

Oh, and this is time I took away from that overheated power supply voltage reading list I was supposed to be working on.

markthefixer said:
Yes, that area does get hot, but with this model we can easily test the current drain demands of each power supply, looking for problems. They will be voltage measurements made not to ground, but with one dmm lead on each lead of certain resistors. I'll get a list together later today (to cut down on errors: posting while tired and all that).


but PLEASE remember to do this first, as I requested back on post #326:
If there are switched and unswitched power outlets on the back panel, unplug the power cord, turn on the power switch and measure the resistance from each power cord pin to each receptacle opening (both sides) of the three outlets.(that gives six readings for one pin of the power cord and six readings for the other pin of the power cord) There are also two fuses, and one is kind of hidden, it could be damaged. The amount of resistance necessary to do what you have seen should show up on the ohmmeter.
Click to expand...
 
Okay I will do that first thing tomorrow. Power outlet readings. 12 readings coming up tomorrow. As for the hidden fuse, If you can remember I replaced it way back when. But I will measure that anyway. I just don't understand the "The amount of resistance necessary to do what you have seen should show up on the ohmmeter" part.
 
D.E.K said:
Okay I will do that first thing tomorrow. Power outlet readings. 12 readings coming up tomorrow. As for the hidden fuse, If you can remember I replaced it way back when. But I will measure that anyway. I just don't understand the "The amount of resistance necessary to do what you have seen should show up on the ohmmeter" part.
Click to expand...

It's not a few ohms (power transformer primary), or a fraction of an ohm (fuse + switch) it's probably over 30 ohms.
 
Measure DC voltage across each resistor, one meter lead on each of the two resistor leads. There is NO ground connection for these measurements.

There will be anywhere from 40 millivolts to 40 volts across each of the resistors.

R11 10 ohms 1/4 watt
R13 1200 ohms 2 watts (big)
R21 10 ohms 1/4 watt

R12 10 ohms 1/4 watt
R14 1500 ohms 2 watts (big)
R15 18000 ohms 1/4 watt

R20 3.3 ohms 1/4 watt
 
Here are the readings you've asked for the SWITCHED and UNSWITCHED outlets in the back panel. I don't know which one is R11, R13 etc. so I didn't take any readings of any transistors on the Power Protection Board. I am not good at reading schematics either, something will have to work on. I attached a picture for reference with each receptacle numbered. Bare with me as this is probably going to be a little time consming for you to figure out.

DSC07705.jpg



Red Lead in Receptacle #1:

Pin #1: 00.2
Pin #2: 01.0

Black Lead in Receptacle #1:

Pin #1: 0.02
Pin #2: 01.0

Red Lead in Receptacle #2:

Pin #1: 01.0
Pin #2: 00.2

Black Lead in Receptacle #2:

Pin #1: 01.1
Pin #2: 00.2

Red Lead in Receptacle #3:

Pin #3: 00.1
Pin #4: 01.0

Black Lead in Receptacle #3:

Pin #3: 00.1
Pin #4: 01.1

Red Lead in Receptacle #4:

Pin #3: 01.0
Pin #4: 00.2

Black Lead in Receptacle #4:

Pin #3: 01.1
Pin #4: 00.1

Red Lead in Receptacle #5:

Pin #5: 00.2
Pin #6: 01.1

Black Lead in Receptacle #5:

Pin #5: 00.1
Pin #6: 01.1

Red Lead in Receptacle #6:

Pin #5: 01.1
Pin #6: 00.2

Black Lead in Receptacle #6:

Pin #5: 01.1
Pin #6: 00.2
 
D.E.K said:
One of the power pins of the switches is soldered to the chasis with a resistor in the middle.
Click to expand...

That's the safety resistor, in case the plug is inserted backwards (or the outlet is wired backwards) so that the current that flows from the line through the (accidentally hot) chassis and then through you is limited to a safe level, instead of a lethal level. 2,200,000 ohms. 55 microamps.


D.E.K said:
As you can see, the readings aren't what you expected. I am 110% sure I am making a mistake.
Click to expand...

Actually you are close, one of the leads - let's say the black lead, always stays on one of the two prongs that usually plug into the wall (but NOT plugged in now), then probe 1 through 6. An ADDED (7th ) reading, probe the bare metal chassis too, in one case you will read the 2.2 million ohm resistor, and that will help differentiate between the two otherwise identical pins.

Nice innovation in keeping track of the six points :D

A picture of your meter, with the reading showing when the leads are touched together, would be helpful.
 
I guess you want to make sure the 00.2 values in all my readings are actually 0 and there is no other factor that will offset the reading to 00.2? If I'm correct with my assumption, you can relax. The meter shows 00.2 even when the lads are touching one another. So I assume my readings are good, well not bad at worst.

DSC07708.jpg
 
D.E.K said:
The Red and Black leads touching eachother, okay. Sorry about the innovation, didn't think over it.
Click to expand...

Sorry????​

:D You don't need no steenking sorry!! :D​

That was a complement... that was a GOOD solution to something that I hadn't thought through....

The picture of the meter was great, now we can be on the same page as to your meter. Like my asking to measure 2.2 million ohms when yours will only got to 1.999 million ohms. So you will have to touch the plug side of the resistor soldered to the chassis for zero (or 0.2) ohms reading to identify which prong goes to the safety resistor....
 
One lead touching the pin on the plug side of the resistor, the other lead touching the other side (solder on chasis) of the resitor. Took 2 readings switching the meter leads. No action on the digital display of the meter at all.
 
To be more clear, "Red Lead on Point A and Black Lead on Point C", no movement on the display at all. Switched around, "Black Lead on Point A and Red Lead on Point C", again, no movement.

DSC07710.jpg
 
Of course, right there it is 2,200,000 ohms, and your meter only goes up to 1,999,000 ohms. So it won't read from A to C, or C to A.

On measurement 7, point A is where the lead goes. In BOTH cases.

The OTHER meter lead goes to the end of the power cord, furthest from the receiver, the part that plugs INTO the wall socket, there are TWO bare metal blades, and the first seven readings are done with the meter lead connected to one, and the other seven are done connected to the other metal blade. IF they are dull, not shiny, you may want to clean them up with some abrasive.

Measuring that extra seventh reading to "point A" allows me to tell one blade from the other.
 
I understand. Shouldn't the numbers in the display scramble wildly and then go back down to OL whether or not my meter is able to read up to 1,999,000 ohms? Piece of garbage that meter is. What I am trying to say is there is no movement at all, nothing. As for Reading #7 you mentioned, I imagine you're referring to Red Lead in Receptacle #4 and Black Lead on Pin #4 which reads 00.2 ? Now, the blades.... Are they the small metal blades parallel to one another on which the wires are soldered? If so, aren't half of the readings unnecessary? For example receptacle #4 and Pin #4 or say receptacle #6 and Pin #6, they are both connected to the same blade, hence to the same point? It is as if touching the leads of the meter to eachother. Don't get me wrong, I understand what you're saying, I just want to be 100% SURE.

DSC077102.jpg
 
D.E.K said:
Shouldn't the numbers in the display scramble wildly and then go back down to OL whether or not my meter is able to read up to 1,999,000 ohms?
Click to expand...

Not always. Sometimes it will do that depending on the circuit you're testing and other times it'll show nothing at all. Sometimes when you test in the circuit that contains a capacitor even a very small cap or some kind of capacitance, it can show some reading then back to OL. Diodes and transistors sometimes does that too. With resistors, more unlikely than likely will it show anything when it is out of the meter's range. Your meter is fine. My meter goes up to 2 megs (2000k) like yours, so it will not be able to read 2.2 megs. I'd like to get myself a better meter than what I got, but someday. But if you are working mostly on solid states rather than tubes, you'll run into very very few resistors in megohm ratings. Megohm resistors are more often used in tube equipment than solid states.
 
markthefixer said:
Of course, right there it is 2,200,000 ohms, and your meter only goes up to 1,999,000 ohms. So it won't read from A to C, or C to A.

On measurement 7, point A is where the lead goes. In BOTH cases.

The OTHER meter lead goes to the end of the power cord, furthest from the receiver, the part that plugs INTO the wall socket, there are TWO bare metal blades, and the first seven readings are done with the meter lead connected to one, and the other seven are done connected to the other metal blade. IF they are dull, not shiny, you may want to clean them up with some abrasive.

Measuring that extra seventh reading to "point A" allows me to tell one blade from the other.
Click to expand...

D.E.K said:
<snip> As for Reading #7 you mentioned, I imagine you're referring to Red Lead in Receptacle #4 and Black Lead on Pin #4 which reads 00.2 ? Now, the blades.... Are they the small metal blades parallel to one another on which the wires are soldered? If so, aren't half of the readings unnecessary? For example receptacle #4 and Pin #4 or say receptacle #6 and Pin #6, they are both connected to the same blade, hence to the same point? It is as if touching the leads of the meter to eachother. Don't get me wrong, I understand what you're saying, I just want to be 100% SURE.
Click to expand...

What do you call this? Really, I'm NOT being sarcastic - just trying to get on the same wavelength.
What about the things on it that go into the wall socket in the house? the metal things. two of them.
one lead of the ohmmeter is connected to one of them and the other lead is touched to the
other 7 points, 6 from the outside of the receiver, the seventh from the inside to make the measurements.

Then repeat the seven readings after moving the ohmmeter lead to the OTHER one.

p.s. I WAS looking for a smaller image on the web, but didn't find any that were clear....
plus that one is polarized, notice how one blade is wider than the other?
on yours they will have the same dimensions.

product567_0.jpg
 
D.E.K said:
Oh, the leads on the POWER PLUG itself... Why didn't you say so.
Click to expand...

Those words escaped me. :dunno:


I learned NOT to play "charades" with my dad the 9 weeks of so I was on a ventilator - we were terrible and it was frustrating - but a buddy from all the way back in grade school was finishing my words and sentences correctly.
 
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