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The Mighty Bogen MO-200A

Dave, what is the meaning of the nomenclature +0/-1db? I understand the second number (-1 dB), but what does the "+0" refer to?

I'm looking forward to the schematic changes. But for now, I'm curious about the feedback and HF stability circuits. Did you go with the more traditional approach of a cap paralled across the feedback resistor? Also, I'm curious as to the nature of the HF stability network(s) that you put in?

Good read, thanks.
 
K - Often, you will see response figures listed as +/- 1 db. This is likely to help allow for variations beyond the control of the manufacturer (such as kit builds and/or component tolerances), and to give themselves some extra margin without obviously looking like they're doing so. After all, +/- 1db looks better on paper than a response accuracy within 2 db, right?

In a well designed feedback amplifier, a rising response is to be avoided at all cost, as it usually indicates some level of instability at some frequency. It may be quite mild, but there none the less. Therefore, I always design from a "+0" standpoint (ref, 1 kHz), so that the 1 db roll off point becomes much more clearly defined, and roll off beyond that point is smooth and predictable.

Back in the day, I am absolutely convinced that the process of stabilizing feedback amplifiers was as much a hit or miss effort, as it was a scientific one. Only a few of the really good designers really knew what they were doing. There rest were either having to issue modifications (Eico) or new models (Heath) or make numerous production line changes (Fisher) to get a handle on the stability versus response versus delivered performance juggling act. Some only "finally" got their designs stable, only to ditch the model because of other problems the stability "cure" created. As a result, I have long felt that NOT the effects of feedback, BUT the effects of it being poorly applied and stabilized are clearly audible. Over three decades ago then, I started to develop my own approach to designing and stabilizing feedback amplifiers. It's not that the physical configurations are that different at all -- but the way in which those values are determined, and what compromises are considered acceptable between the various performance parameters, is.

For the Bogen then, I ended up using a traditional single tap feedback cap and resistor from the loaded output winding, and a traditional step network at the output of the AF amp stage in place of Bogen's two step network located there.

As an example of but one compromise of this project relates to power output at 20 Khz, and is a compromise that Bogen clearly accepted as well. In the original design, each amplifier was able to develop a usable (about) 55 watts RMS of power output at this frequency. Beyond that, phase distortion becomes excessive. In the modified amplifier, I was able to push this a little to 60 watts RMS. But if you remove ALL feedback and stability circuits, then each amplifier can actually deliver 100 watts RMS at 20 kHz with notably lower distortion that either Bogen's can at 55 watts, or mine can at 60 watts. BUT, then the low end falls apart. So where do you draw the line? And that is just one aspect of the fine art of compromise when it comes to feedback and stability -- and made all the more important when dealing with transformers such as the Bogen employs. In your zeal to eek out the highest possible performance regarding one performance parameter, you can actually make things much worse in others -- which bring us back to the fine art of compromise, and what compromises will deliver the best, most USABLE overall performance for the application at hand.

I'll try to get a schematic posted tomorrow evening.

Dave
 
Partial Schematic

I was finally able to document all the changes made to the MO-200A so far. There have been some minor changes in specifications that the modification achieves, but the overall result largely follows the data offered in the text previously given.

The on-going intent of this project has been to maintain as much of the original topology and design as possible. This will make the modification both easier to perform, and appeal to the widest number of folks for those interested in performing the modification on their own units.

The biggest deviation of course is the change to operating each amplifier with just two output tubes instead of four. Beyond that, the circuit largely maintains the original topology, although every stage has been modified for improved balance and/or linearity. Power output and input sensitivity remain virtually identical to that of the original design, yet frequency response, HF transient response, and distortion are all majorly improved.

The schematic is still missing some information, as that information is still to be determined. Information such as typical distortion performance, voltages, and quiescent current settings will ultimately be given final values after EFB(tm) has been installed, and the other channel has been modified as well to match the one being used for development.

For now however, the next step is to operate the unit in stereo mode, with the one channel modified as shown (using 40 ma quiescent current per tube), and the other channel operating box stock as originally designed, with all four output tubes installed, etc., etc., etc. Using a mono (and sometimes stereo) signal source then, this always makes for veeery interesting sonic comparisons, to see if all the reworking is all its cracked up to be.

I used this same approach when I reworked Audiodon's Fisher X-1000. It has a particularly annoying habit of keeping you firmly well grounded in reality, as it relates to the worth and hype behind boutique components, planet alignment modifications, tube rolling, and on, and on, and on.

A little time will be needed for that effort, as the remaining stock channel will need to be reactivated now. Many of its connections were disturbed in separating the two amplifiers at the hip, so the stock channel will now take on the circuit of a stock MO-100A, except being powered of course (like the modified channel) from a MO-200A power supply.

I will report those findings of course, and then it will be on to the final effort with this project -- that of installing EFB to control output stage operating parameters. When that is finished, the missing (and final) data will be filled in on this schematic, and a modified power supply schematic will be posted at that time as well.

For the moment though, I'm taking some time to enjoy the season!

Dave
 

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Thanks again for all your work on these. Its very useful info for folks like myself who own the amps, but lack the gear and expertise to work out the mods for themselves. I'm also really curious what you come up with to let it take more commonly available tubes. Mostly thats for my own interests since I don't have the 8417's for my MO-100a's and I'd prefer to stick with tubes I can get more easily.
 
Hi Gadget -- Stay tuned. The first step in this effort was to see how well it could be re-purposed for home high fidelity use as a stereo amplifier, based as much as possible on its original design.

In considering alternate output tubes, the EL34 is the most logical tube to use, but will require a revised driver circuit -- not because the existing circuit can't drive these tubes, but because any output tube change from the 8417 will result in at least a 50% drop in gain in the output stage. This then will either double the input voltage requirements if the same performance is to be maintained, or, cut the distortion reduction performance in half if the same input voltage requirement is maintained. Since neither of these is a desirable result, a revised driver stage will be required.

Based on the ultimate capability of this unit, the most logical change to make to the driver stage then is to convert the 7247 tube to a 6AN8 -- but still use R/C coupling between the pentode input section, and the triode splitter section. This approach will eliminate the effects of any shifts in the pentode's operating point from affecting the triode's operating point, which ultimately will eliminate the concern of critical adjustment of the pentode's screen grid voltage to produce optimum operation of the pentode/triode combination when direct coupling is used between these stages.

This approach would still allow the unit to maintain the same basic topology of the original design, requiring no alteration of the chassis, but operate with EL34 and 6AN8 tubes, which are far more readily available, than either of the original tubes used in these amplifiers. It would also minimize the overall work involved as well.

It would also be possible to convert the input/driver design to a Mullard type front end, utilizing the 9 pin input transformer socket as an additional tube socket to accommodate that type of design. For EL34s however, the Mullard approach won't produce any improved performance over that which the 6AN8 can produce, and will only increase costs and complexity of the modification.

Once I finish with the existing phase of the project, and rpampt determines where he wants to go with this effort based on the outcome of the existing work, then I will look at the alternate tube scenario as well.

Dave
 
Hiya Dave,

Great stuff as usual and thanks for the schematic :)

So dumb question .. why not stay with 8417's .. my feeling is that while they are "Rare" they can be had vintage NOS at less than what NOS KT88's , EL34's go for ???

Yes one might have to cast about to find a couple quads (One for now and one for later) but with your mods and how these are being driven why would a good set of 8417's not last for many many years ???

I think the economy (Of staying with 8417's) over a few years would be realized over buying new production EL34's et all and dealing with quality control issues.

Frannie
 
Hi Frannie -- Personally, I agree very much with your position. For the owner of this beast, just the tubes to fill out one complete original amplifier will likely well outlast his use with the amplifier.

The two issues that come into play then are those who have these units but have no 8417s to populate them with, or those who want to sell what 8417s they have to finance a conversion to potentially cheaper traditional tubes, or to traditional tubes they already have on hand.

I am not particularly aware of just how available 8417s are, and what their price is versus the new more traditional tubes that are commercially available. But if 8417s are available "enough", then there is certainly no reason to switch to alternate output tubes from any performance standpoint. And, I must say that in all my work and testing with these tubes during this project, the 8417 has proven to be a very hearty tube in deed!

Dave
 
Thanks Dave for your explanation (about the meaning of +0dB). Nice artistic touch on the schematic.

I assume the EL34 is the most logical alternative tube to use because of it's high (800V) plate voltage allowance?

I would like to try this EFB(tm) of yours; maybe in my current build once I get it working and stable. I guess I can start by thoroughly reading your white paper.

This has been a good thread. Learned much. Thanks.
 
First of all, kudos to Dave for his attention to detail and ability to communicate it for others here at AK to see and use. Following is a few portions of my post back in #41.

Just to clarify a few things. The amp that Dave is so graciously reworking is from me.

I had also seen where Dave had not refuted the ability of the Bogen to perform at a high level as a Hifi amp, but had mentioned not a lot of hard data to prove what many folks ears were saying... these Bogens are very capable of high quality hifi.


So after my research, some idea threads and such, I tried to give Dave a bit of a nudge, with the opportunity for him to finally get some really good hard data of this particular model amp. While at the same time, asking that the amp be converted to stereo, with the use of original tubes if the ones provided were adequate. Then doing what's necessary after that to see just what kind of performance he can squeeze out of it.

While the 8417's seemed to be a little more difficult to find, it's certainly not impossible as Jaymanna has communicated. And since I already had 16 (albeit untested) it was worth a try. But with the uncertainty of the quality of the untested tubes, an alternate plan had to, at least, be considered. Therefore the ability to run other tubes, that are more readily available would be the next option. Even if we were able to find enough good 8417s out of the 16, being able to switch output tubes to another type (ie EL34s) down the road would be a great option. Budget wise, there is certainly a limit, and I'm not one to need boutique parts per se. Good, reliable and resonable is what I'm about!


So after consideration of everything, I had one of the amps layed on Dave's doorstep. Dave and I seem to be thinking on the same track, and I'm comfortable allowing him to do as he see's fit! I thank everyone for your help, ideas, and considerations. Hopefully this will explain a little bit more about Dave's direction. We still don't know exactly how the final product will end up, but I'm pretty sure it will be well documented how he got it there, and how it performs.:yes:. And if it's truly capable of great things, that's where Dave will take it!

Now I'll try and not intrude on your thread too often Dave.

That's just a few portions of my post back earlier in the thread. We've traveled a ways since then. 8417's were indeed the original idea, but alternatives were considered depending on what Dave found with the original tubes. Some consideration was given to the sale of the tubes for something more common that I may already have stashed. Reliabilty of the 8417 tubes has been questioned before, but in Dave's tests so far, that doesn't appear to be an issue. "Hearty" was the term he used.

Unless there are some performance, durability, or sonic improvements by trying out a different family of tubes, it doesn't seem necessary to do that coversion. But like Dave says, it could be a benefit to others who have the 200a or 100a's sitting around and are looking for a suitable substitution and circuit mods that have already been fully tested. So trying out EL 34's or 6550's or something might be beneficial to others.

From what I've read, it seems the sonics side of the 8417 is not in question. I've read a few articles/threads where people really liked their sound.

I know one thing... I can't wait to hear what Dave has to say after actually giving it a listen.

Best Christmas wishes to all!
 
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K -- I wouldn't even have a concern using 6550s at this plate voltage level. In almost all tubes, it's the screen voltage and dissipation versus the screens ratings for these parameters that really must be kept in close check.

The primary reason for the choice of EL34 is the high value of Grid #1 DC resistance that they can tolerate. This, plus a typical drive voltage of ~ 32 volts peak per side of the push-pull connection means that they can be directly driven easily enough by a cathodyne phase inverter -- which will then act to help keep the topology of the original design in place. On the other hand, trying to drive 6550s (with their very low maximum Grid #1 DC resistance) in that scenario will tax the inverter to the limits of its capabilities and more, which will introduce new distortion issues to be dealt with. Using the EL34 solves all of these problems, without introducing a lot of new ones.

Thanks for your interest in EFB!

Dave
 
Just a mention about the 7247 tubes, ElectroHarmonix is making a 12DW7 now. I actually picked up a pair for mine for fairly small coin. I have no clue how good they are but they do exist. They retail online for under 20 bucks, I think I got mine for about 15 each when I ran into a guy selling them at Kutztown in the fall.
 
I've heard they were being manufactured as well, but also have no idea as to how good they are. Either way, they really only relate to the unit if 8417s are to be maintained in the output stage. Otherwise, they simply do not provide enough gain when lower Gm tubes are used in the output stage.

Dave
 
True. I picked them up because I ran into a guy who had them and thought it might be useful to start picking up tubes for my 100a's. I had actually picked up the second 100A that day from another guy at the same event so parts for it were on my mind. If I don't end up using them, I can off the things. I have some NOS 6U8's that would work out for a pentode/triode driver tube that I also picked up for peanuts. If you have the patience to look through huge boxes of TV tubes, you can occasionally find an oddly used audio tube for a buck per. Stromberg-Carlson was good for using a 6U8, and I've ended up with 3 of their amps.
 
I can't remember if the 200 had an AC balance control on the phase inverter? If not, did you add pots, and if so, did you play with the feedback values after that?
 
Jay -- the 100 and 200 only have a very rudimentary DC balance pot for the output stage, and that's it -- no phase inverter AC balance control, or output stage bias control, either. On the schematic I provided in post #184, it can be seen that now all three controls are now provided (DC Bias and Balance, and AC Balance). The bias on the first AF amplifier (input) stage was also a significant concern. Once this was all straightened out, a new NFB loop and stability network was devised that retains the original NFB level, but now takes NFB from the loaded winding, rather than the dedicated FB winding.

Dave
 
Yule Tide Update -- and a solving a 47 year mystery!

Work on the big Bogen has certainly slowed with all the holiday activities, but not stopped. The power supply area of this particular unit was nothing short of a complete mess (see the last three pics of post #1), with wiring that was simply scary, given the over 700 volt operation this unit routinely sees. So, time has been taken to tidy up that house.

Also, with EFB the next batter up, consideration needed to be given to the somewhat unique bias supply these amplifiers have. For what they are, the bias supply in these units are really quite dependable, and given the close tolerance components used, quite accurate as well. For the needs of the original design then (where the quiescent output stage current is intentionally set quite low), they are quite appropriate. However, they are also a rather high impedance supply, meaning that if you vary the load on their output (as adjusting the new DC Bias and Balance controls does), the output of the supply varies right along with it. In addition to the manual controls then, the EFB circuit will also vary the load somewhat on the output of this supply as well. Having the output of the bias supply vary as the manual and/or EFB circuits work to achieve the ideal bias voltage applied to the output stage means that the range of these controls and the EFB circuits need to be extended greater than normal. This can be done, but it's usually easier to look at stabilizing the bias supply itself.

Within its topology, the existing bias supply could be beefed up to address this concern, but the original design already consumes much energy for what it does, and trying to beef it up would only aggravate this issue. In the end, given the re-purposing goals of this project, it was decided to scrap the old bias supply all together, and go with something new.

For this project, the junk box yielded a small 18 volt power transformer, that if you can believe it, came out of one of those "100 watt" junk computer speaker systems. The silly thing is half the size of the big ol' 600 volt coupling cap used to tap the original bias supply into the HV winding of the power transformer! In any event, pairing this up with a full wave voltage doubler circuit will provide all the stable bias voltage needed, not only to power the new EFB circuits, but also to remain quite stable as the various controls of both channels are adjusted, or the EFB circuit works to dynamically hold the output stage at the point of lowest distortion with varying B+ power supply conditions.

So, progress has still been made during the slow down, with the power supply cleanup nearly done, and work on the new bias supply begun. More info as that work progresses.

As for the 47 year old mystery:

Christmas time always brings a time of reflection on my life, as I'm sure it does for many of you. Last night (well, in the wee hours of today), my thoughts turned to my mid-teenage years in the mid 60's. This was a time when multiple garage bands could be found practicing on any given Saturday in many of the neighborhoods in the city I grew up in. High Schools and even the State Fair sponsored large 'Battle of the Bands" that most groups strived to just win a spot to be allowed to compete in, let alone win. The band I was in was no different. I was fortunate enough that our band eventually rose up to be a well sought after band, winning a number of the competitions, with about a two year stretch where we were booked every Friday and Saturday night with good paying gigs.

At the time, the idea of using large sound reinforcement systems that are so common today, were unheard of. It was every man for himself with his own equipment, so you tried to balance the sound of all the individual pieces, and just hoped the vocals could be heard over the guitars, organ, and drums. Mics were for singing into, and that was it. Fender amps ruled the day, and so did Bogen PA equipment.

None of the members in our band grew up with any silver spoons, so all of our equipment was homemade. My brother could produce leatherette covered speaker cabinets with Fender Bandmaster speakers in them (sold by RS no less!) that looked every bit as professional as the Fender gear. I built all the amps for the group from blank Bud chassis -- bass, lead, rhythm, Leslie, and PA, which were all basically Fender Twin Reverb knockoffs. We were the only band that had reverb on our voices! What a time. This kind of approach produced a very clean, very loud, but raw sound that is completely absent today. It was so neat. If you've ever seen the movie "That Thing You do", you can get a sense of it -- particularly in the scene where the band plays the state fair with all the period correct Fender equipment.

So back to the mystery. The biggest bands (with seed money) always used a Bogen MX-60, driving a pair of University ID-60 horn drivers, screwed on to University CLH horns. We used the same drivers and horns, which was the only real equipment that could raise the vocals over the band amps -- if the PA amp was willing.

Now the PA amp was always taxed pretty hard to do its job, but the horns were so efficient that an honest 60 watts through those horns could drive people out of the area all by themselves. Our Twin based PA system always sounded truly great, never having any trouble elevating our vocals over the band with clean, clear, sound. The number of other band members that would ask about our "no name" equipment was endless. But the Bogen MX-60? It never failed to UN-impress.

Without exception, at the time, whenever I heard an MX-60 in a band, it always had this pulsing, overloaded sound about it when pushed to its upper limits. Not an output stage clipping type of sound, but clearly an overloaded sound about it, that would pulsate in sound level produced. But it was a Bogen -- and an MX-60 at that, in a time when a name was everything in terms of "band" equipment -- so it was the best you could get (except for that pulsation........)

So as I came back to reality last night and started thinking about this current Bogen project, it hit me like a ton of bricks: With the distortion recently discovered in the driver design of the MO-100 and MO-200 units (see post #158), could this have been the source of the overload heard so frequently, so long ago in those MX-60s? After all, they use 8417s in their output stage as well!

A quick check of the MX-60's schematic solved the mystery: The phase inverter/driver design used in the MX-60 is a (virtual) carbon copy of that used in the MO-100/200 amplifiers. If the driver overloads in them, it would overload in the MX-60 as well. And, it would overload in the exact way I heard it to overload as well: As the input grid to the AF amplifier was driven positive, its plate voltage would fall pretty dramatically. This would cause the rather large R/C time constant between the AF Amplifier stage and the inverter stage to seriously off-bias the inverter stage negatively, causing the sound to fade. As the overload went the other direction on the AF stage, it's plate voltage returned through normal, but now, moving to a very high plate voltage, off-biasing the inverter stage in the other direction. This would bring the sound back with authority, but only to have it go the other way again, continuing on until things settled down and the overload was eliminated. There is no doubt that this was the source of the pulsing sound I heard so many times from some many MX-60s..

I know there are some MX-60 aficionados out there, so you folks as well might take heed of the driver modifications made the the MO-100 and 200 amps being discussed here. Without any of the other changes also made, the NFB loop components would require some alteration in the MX-60s, but they would be very easy to determine. Otherwise the basic driver change would directly apply to the MX-60 as well, and eliminate high power level pulsing problems so evident in these units. Just thought you interested folks might like to know. If anybody wants to know the new value NFB values that would be appropriate when installing the modified driver circuit in their MX-60, just let me know.

Just a couple of pics to show the latest progress:

1. Basically what I started with, shortly after starting to tear it all out.

2. The HV supply all neatly reinstalled, with no worries about where that 700+ volts might be going now. The only changes made to the HV supply (besides removing the old Bias Supply design that stole power from it), was to include a 470K 1W bleeder resistor. The original design is self discharging -- but only on the bottom half of the voltage doubler design. The top half is only discharged by the plate current of the output tubes -- but if they're not in, then the charge remains. The addition of the bleeder resistor means that the complete HV supply will now self discharge itself whether the tubes are in or not, in less than 1 minute.

Also, you will see the new "100 watt" bias supply power transformer now mounted to the side of the chassis. Work will begin on the new bias supply next, but for now, with everything cleaned up, the evidence of the original ground zero destruction can be seen with all the black residue -- and this is after a basic clean up too!

Once the new bias supply is installed, then the original and new designs can be sonically compared, with the EFB installation beginning after that.

Dave
 

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Hey Dave, the story from back in the 60's paints quite a picture, but a real photo from back in the day would be cool. Let's see you and the band from your rock and roll days!:yes:
 
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Thanks for the update! A dumb question on the overloading - if the amps were/are operated within its design limits, i.e., the output grids never driven into positive territory, then is everything peachy without pulsating output?
 
Jaz -- That's the thing. Just as with the MO-200 I'm working on, it's the AF amplifier stage that is being over driven BEFORE the output tubes are being over driven. Therefore, the output tubes themselves were not clipping, but were being sent an over driven signal before they themselves were reaching an over driven state.

To specifically answer your question however, yes, as long as the AF amplifier stage was not being over driven, then everything was peachy without the pulsating output -- except that the threshold between clean power and pulsating overloaded power happens very quickly, and was happening below rated power output, meaning that effectively, all the available power the unit was capable of could not be used.

Dave
 
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