The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.

[targeteye]

yes , automotive paint and sprayed in paint booth.

thanks.. i've been considering doing the same to mine. It looks great!

 

[hugo454]

Thanks

 

[Millimetric]

Finaly found some hinges for mine. The cat was starting to want to dj so it was Time for cover.

I made a piece of wood that has the hinges screwed in and it reaches to the wooden skirt i made so i didnt put any holes into the actual table, not even the cover

Pretty happy with it and the recent addition of the denon dl103 makes It sound So good!

 

[Luckiestman]

Love your work, MM! And you got a Denon dl103 cartridge - nice! Always wanted to try one of those...

 

[twiiii]

Back in the 70's a lot of people were removing the original 1100 tone arms and installing new arms. SME and Rabco seemed to be the ones we sold most often. Its fun to see what folks are doing now days.

 

[Luckiestman]

I can understand why people might change the tonearm given how easy it was to do on this table but I'm completely happy with the performance of the original! I highly doubt it makes much of a difference, given what I'm hearing matches or exceeds a digital version of the tracks I've compared so far!

 

[twiiii]

You are so fortunate.

 

[Luckiestman]

Some information for owners who wondered what was under the little hole in the sub-platter where you are supposed to add a couple of drops of the supplied bottle of lubricating oil (which my one still has!) every few years.

I was curious and took the little black plastic caps and screws out of the little aluminium wedge plate that keeps the direct drive sub-platter in place when you turn the table upside down. After pulling out the sub-platter, I could see the bottom end of the spindle was not very well lubricated. I cleaned out the bottom of the well with a few q tips dipped in isopropyl, which came out black. I then replaced the oil (several drops) directly into the well. I also cleaned the ledge at the top of the well, which also came away black. This ledge is where the oil you inject into the hole falls and then drops down the sides of the spindle shaft.

Then I replaced the sub-platter. Thing is, the sub-platter would not go all the way down into the well immediately so I left it for about 20 minutes and when I came back it had sunk down into its original position. I could then return the aluminium wedge plate with the bolts and rubber covers. Actually, one of the bolts was threaded so I have to find a replacement one. Then I added a couple more drops of oil into the hole in the sub-platter for good measure.

After putting it all back together, I tested the time the platter takes to stop after spinning at 33rpm. It didn't make a lot of difference but it now takes a over a second longer (over 16 seconds). It doesn't seem very long but I don't know how long it should spin for.

>>Underneath the sub-platter, showing the unscrewed aluminium wedge plate and black rubber covers, the centre well and ledge around it that catches the oil that drops through the hole in the sub-platter. Note the bolt holes for the two plastic wedge plates that you are supposed to add when transporting the table (they were MIA before I bought it)


>> The underneath of the sub-platter showing the bottom of the spindle

 

[clemvice]

Algumas informações para os proprietários que se perguntam o que havia sob o pequeno buraco no sub-prato onde você deveria adicionar algumas gotas do frasco de óleo lubrificante fornecido (que o meu ainda tem!) a cada poucos anos.

Fiquei curioso e tirei as pequenas tampas de plástico pretas e os parafusos da pequena placa de alumínio que mantém o sub-prato de acionamento direto no lugar quando você vira a mesa de cabeça para baixo. Depois de retirar o subprato, pude ver que a extremidade inferior do fuso não estava muito bem lubrificada. Limpei o fundo do poço com algumas pontas q embebidas em isopropil, que ficaram pretas. Em seguida, substituí o óleo (várias gotas) diretamente no poço. Também limpei a saliência no topo do poço, que também ficou preta. Essa saliência é onde o óleo que você injeta no buraco cai e depois desce pelas laterais do eixo do fuso.

Então substituí o sub-prato. O problema é que o sub-prato não descia imediatamente para dentro do poço, então deixei-o por cerca de 20 minutos e quando voltei ele havia afundado em sua posição original. Eu poderia então devolver a placa de alumínio com os parafusos e as tampas de borracha. Na verdade, um dos parafusos estava rosqueado, então tenho que encontrar um substituto. Em seguida, adicionei mais algumas gotas de óleo no orifício do prato secundário para garantir.

Depois de juntar tudo novamente, testei o tempo que o prato leva para parar depois de girar a 33 rpm. Não fez muita diferença, mas agora leva mais de um segundo a mais (mais de 16 segundos). Não parece muito longo, mas não sei por quanto tempo deve girar.

>> Embaixo do sub-prato, mostrando a placa em cunha de alumínio desenroscada e as tampas de borracha preta, o poço central e a saliência ao redor que retém o óleo que cai pelo orifício do sub-prato. Observe os orifícios dos parafusos para as duas placas de plástico que você deve adicionar ao transportar a mesa (elas estavam desaparecidas antes de eu comprá-la)
View attachment 3116452

>> A parte inferior do subprato mostrando a parte inferior do fuso
View attachment 3116453

I took mine apart and cleaned it

I reassembled it and the rotation is advanced, I can't adjust it correctly

Is there a sphere under the shaft or not?

I don't know where the problem is

can you help me?

I'm sorry I messed up

Thank you

.

 

[Luckiestman]

Hiya - there are a few reasons why it could be spinning too fast. Try replacing C14 470uf 50V cap if you haven't already.

As for the bearing under the shaft - I'm not sure what is at the bottom of the well. I might investigate and get back to you.

 

[jcidave]

Finaly found some hinges for mine. The cat was starting to want to dj so it was Time for cover.

I made a piece of wood that has the hinges screwed in and it reaches to the wooden skirt i made so i didnt put any holes into the actual table, not even the cover

Pretty happy with it and the recent addition of the denon dl103 makes It sound So good!

Nicely done. When I acquired my 1100 a few years ago I also wanted a hinged cover, but did not have the original. So I made a cover. I added a wood bar and hinges using L brackets and existing screw holes in the machine base. Added a prop rod to hold the cover up and it works for my needs.

 

[clemvice]

Hiya - there are a few reasons why it could be spinning too fast. Try replacing C14 470uf 50V cap if you haven't already.

As for the bearing under the shaft - I'm not sure what is at the bottom of the well. I might investigate and get back to you.

When cleaning the excess oil that spilled, he broke two wires on the coil

I already soldered it, it's working

inside the axis there is no sphere, nothing

my SL110 with arm EPA500/501H is only two years old, it still doesn't need to replace capacitors

Thank you very much

.

 

[Nipper]

I'm in. Posted this years ago. It's still sitting in the box.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/vinyl-guys-come-in-please.646576/

 

[frankmarsi]

Tone-Arms do have personalities, How could they not?

I found the Technics SL-110 tone-arm pleasant and seemingly adequate though not really anything to write home about. It’s the same basic arm on the original Technics SL-120 though I did find it a touch better in sound quality.

Then, in 2018 the planet slightly shifted on its axis when I went hog wild and spent more than I would’ve thought I’d ever spend on a tone arm. I hearkened back to the first time I saw one sometime in the early 1970s. It was unimaginable for me at that time to considered buying one unless I won the lottery. It was also the most futuristic arm I ever laid eyes on

When I learned how to set-up and balance this intricate and un-common tone-arm and mounted it on my SL-1100 I was aurally launched into a even higher stratosphere.
Its very tight fist-ed bass response, pristine upper mids and crystalline highs, I once again re-learned what I’ve been reading about most of my adult life in the many stereo magazines I glued myself to.
Not to slight myself favorite industry standard in days of yore but can still hold its own, the S.M.E. 3009 9 inch Pre-Improved model of which I own several. The 3009 to me is an arm I’m most accustomed to for of its quality of sound and design. Beyond that, most other arms I’ve owned and used, the Dynavector 505 has always been for me the almost undiscovered gem of gems. If I had the opportunity to give you a listen, I’m sure you’d be as highly impressed as I am.

If you enjoy authoritative bass you can sense/feel in your chest and sometimes out of the blue and for no apparent reason other than “I never heard that before” revelation this arm should be a strong consideration. Also, hardly any other table unless you have an extended arm-board will accommodate this over-sized tonearm. I’m so impressed by this arm, I own one in silver and one in black and both are in exceptional almost new condition.

I now also enjoy other arms I never thought I would primarily because I never owned them but, once I acquired them and familiarized myself with them and in some cases even modded them, my ears opened even more.
See links below for my earlier banter:

The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.

@hugo454 - nice deck! What arm is on there?

audiokarma.org

The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.

There are some beautiful turntables here.

audiokarma.org

The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.

Suppler said that is the way the armboard would be cut. Because their SME arm mount cutout template was made that way. If you buy it uncut you can have a little more flexibility in orientation. Note since these are cast acrylic and not extruded they machine much better/cleaner and do not...

audiokarma.org

 

[Luckiestman]

Thanks, FM! I'm pretty sure your posts contributed to me pushing the button on the auction for mine! I've always loved the look of the wood armboard version and just needed to reassure myself that it was capable of high sound quality (I'd already tried twice to buy newish belt drives and been very disappointed).

As for different tonearms, that might be in my future but I'm pretty satisfied with what I can hear already so we'll see how long that lasts!

 

[frankmarsi]

I hope it works out well for you. It appears that these units were built to last for a very long time.
As I recall back when these were 'new', their ads stated there was no wear. Certainly, there must be some wear but, I don't think in our life time.
All I can say is, make sure you give one drop of oil (over oiling is not a good thing), to be safe, once/year with moderate use, and make sure the base is level when setting up.
FM

 

[rcjones74]

OK new here! I managed to get a Technics 110a (for free). Doesn't have an armboard or a tonearm. But does turn on, has the strobe and speed looks good. Also have a Hana EL cartridge.

Looking for options on a tonearm. Suggestions include the 12" Temaad tonearm. Any other ideas? Probably a low mass tonearm would be a better fit for the Hana.

Also looking at SME, AT 1503 1100 etc.

Here is a picture of my dusty Technics. I threw a mat on there from a Pioneer PL12D.

 

[Kit Carson]

rcjones74 nice catch, a vintage AT tonearm to match the Hana would be a good choice, Technics SL-110a will outlive you.

 

[rcjones74]

What would be a good AT tonearm? 1503, 1100, 1010?

 

[rcjones74]

Or a SAEC WE-308 ?