Thorens owners group

[jed69]

Nice; thanks! I am thinking of revisiting my plinth and am waffling between doing something in an automotive finish (which I'm pretty sure I can't do myself) and something like your Super.

I use the board on the left with my SME; was so easy to work with.

Yes, Ultra Flat Black. Not sure on the TA as of yet. I have a couple of extra TA boards. REGA and SME.

 

[Barncats]

Mild Identity Crisis

Hello Everyone,

candg.wales originally asked about setting up a dedicated Thorens group. Everyone chimed in with yes, yes, yes, let's have one. Then Divotdog went to the trouble of actually setting up a Thorens group over in Social Groups. It has 58 members. But it seems that all the traffic is here, on Turntables, and most recently, under the thread "Thorens owners group"!!!

Am I the only one to have considerable confusion about this?

Maybe its like setting up a new restaurant in a town that already has a bunch of restos: nobody remembers the new one is there, so they keep going to the old ones.

But if we wish to have a Thorens-focused group, where people can easily scan all the threads, shouldn't we being doing these things over there? I asked a question about TD160 hinge pins on the social group, got no replies, and after waiting what felt like an eternity, finally asked the question "out here" in Turntables, and got a reply almost immediately.

Where shall we concentrate our energies? Shall we stay out here in Turntables, or congregate more consciously in Social Groups? I'm happy either way, but just was wondering what other people thought about it.

Confused in Conway

 

[Divotdog]

Hello Everyone,

candg.wales originally asked about setting up a dedicated Thorens group. Everyone chimed in with yes, yes, yes, let's have one. Then Divotdog went to the trouble of actually setting up a Thorens group over in Social Groups. It has 58 members. But it seems that all the traffic is here, on Turntables, and most recently, under the thread "Thorens owners group"!!!

Am I the only one to have considerable confusion about this?

Maybe its like setting up a new restaurant in a town that already has a bunch of restos: nobody remembers the new one is there, so they keep going to the old ones.

But if we wish to have a Thorens-focused group, where people can easily scan all the threads, shouldn't we being doing these things over there? I asked a question about TD160 hinge pins on the social group, got no replies, and after waiting what felt like an eternity, finally asked the question "out here" in Turntables, and got a reply almost immediately.

Where shall we concentrate our energies? Shall we stay out here in Turntables, or congregate more consciously in Social Groups? I'm happy either way, but just was wondering what other people thought about it.

Confused in Conway

Bruce, it will always be best to post a question in the open forums, you will get a lot more traffic, and a quicker answer, I will follow these threads and add any that seem particularly useful to the helpful links thread in the Thorens Group, if you have a question you might peruse the social group for an answer or a thread that can help, it will take awhile to get all of the really useful threads posted in the social group as I am trying to keep them relatively categorized, don’t be surprised to see your hinge thread in there at some point. :thmbsp:

 

[80daytripper]

Hi Daytripper and Welcome to AK, and the Thorens Owners group.

The leaning is because the headshell has twisted/rotated on the arm's long axis. This is usually because of the attachment of the headshell to its connector which then is locked onto the end of the aluminum arm tube. IME, you can grasp the arm tube, and gently rotate the headshell back to level with the stylus pointed vertically (or perpendicular) to the record. Be very careful not to damage the stylus while working around it.

Once in a great while, the problem is the attachment of the arm tube to the bearing gimbal instead. If that is the case, I believe you can still twist the entire arm tube/headshell assembly, but it may be loose and need to be affixed (glued?) in place, or possibly will stay in place from friction.

Others may need to confirm or chime in with their experience before you do anything. But for sure, your cartridge is not meant to be oriented at an angle like that, and should not be used for playing records because the stylus force will be very much directed at one side of the groove and could result in excessive wear or damage to the record, and possibly the stylus itself.

Excellent, many thanks for this info!
Tried this trick you mentioned. Worked perfectly and this cartridge is straight now. Very happy with that.


Couple of other things I am thinking:

1. Any chance someone could point out the places that need oil and how to do it? The platter bearing obviously, but any other places/parts to check?

2. My TD 160 has the original RCA-plugs, so these should be replaced. Should I change the whole cabel, or is it "enough" to change just the plugs? The aim is the improve the sound quality. Also, how difficult is it to change the whole cable?

3. Sounds like the my platter makes a bit of noise for a second or so when it starts spinning. Normal, or no?

If anyone can share their knowledge, I'd be grateful. Thanks again folks!

 

[kaplang]

2. My TD 160 has the original RCA-plugs, so these should be replaced. Should I change the whole cabel, or is it "enough" to change just the plugs? The aim is the improve the sound quality. Also, how difficult is it to change the whole cable?

Just because the RCA-connections are original does not mean they need to be replaced. Is the work involved worth the improvement in sound quality if any? I doubt you will even notice a difference. If they are rusty or corrited it may be worth replacing. In my opinion " if it's not broke don't fix it"

 

[grooveman]

I'm a bit late to the party, but count me in as well! I've owned several different turntable brands and models over the years. But there's just something special about a Thorens. My 160 Super is a superb table and one I plan to own for life!

 

[mech986]

Excellent, many thanks for this info!
Tried this trick you mentioned. Worked perfectly and this cartridge is straight now. Very happy with that.


Couple of other things I am thinking:

1. Any chance someone could point out the places that need oil and how to do it? The platter bearing obviously, but any other places/parts to check?

2. My TD 160 has the original RCA-plugs, so these should be replaced. Should I change the whole cabel, or is it "enough" to change just the plugs? The aim is the improve the sound quality. Also, how difficult is it to change the whole cable?

3. Sounds like the my platter makes a bit of noise for a second or so when it starts spinning. Normal, or no?

If anyone can share their knowledge, I'd be grateful. Thanks again folks!

Just because the RCA-connections are original does not mean they need to be replaced. Is the work involved worth the improvement in sound quality if any? I doubt you will even notice a difference. If they are rusty or corrited it may be worth replacing. In my opinion " if it's not broke don't fix it"

In my opinion and experience with 6 different TD16x tables, I'd say yes, replace the RCA cables that came with the tables. The cables are covered with a rubber PVC type insulation that dries out and cracks over time, especially in dry weather areas (I live in LA). The RCA plugs are not terribly robust IME. I've had 3 tables give me problems with intermittent contact or cable signal or ground shield failure over the years. It may have something to do with my moving and taking down/setting up the tables over the years.

Certainly, much better cabling is available as are better RCA's than what came OEM with the table. Good quality low capacitance cable can easily be stripped and soldered onto the terminal block located on the back inside wall of the table. The connections are diagrammed in the service manual.

I don't think its a particularly difficult thing to do but you should be comfortable reading schematics, working with signal cable, and soldering. Also, you must properly secure or disassemble the turntable to properly position the parts for desoldering and soldering.

 

[jed69]

To put in my two cents:

1. On my TD160, all I oiled was the platter bearing; I did the SRM Tech mods and also inserted a bearing pad in the bottom of the bearing. I didn't do anything to the arm because I replaced it with a SME.

2. I replaced my RCA plugs although I probably didn't need to; I got the conversion kit (it was about $30) and soldered it on and had a friend make me interconnects (they are very nice and were a lot less than some of the cables out there). I'm not sure of the exact difference in sound, as I've done a lot of tweaks since then, but the overall sound is much better; the original SMEs seemed fine, but through a bit of a misstep were unusable anyway.

3. What kind of noise is the platter making?

Excellent, many thanks for this info!
Tried this trick you mentioned. Worked perfectly and this cartridge is straight now. Very happy with that.


Couple of other things I am thinking:

1. Any chance someone could point out the places that need oil and how to do it? The platter bearing obviously, but any other places/parts to check?

2. My TD 160 has the original RCA-plugs, so these should be replaced. Should I change the whole cabel, or is it "enough" to change just the plugs? The aim is the improve the sound quality. Also, how difficult is it to change the whole cable?

3. Sounds like the my platter makes a bit of noise for a second or so when it starts spinning. Normal, or no?

If anyone can share their knowledge, I'd be grateful. Thanks again folks!

 

[80daytripper]

Excellent, many thanks for replies. I appreciate.

Mech986 - any chance you could give me tips what cables to purchase? Not too expensive though.

jed69 - the sound is like when too pieces of metal and/or plastic are in contact with each other. It only lasts for a very short moment when putting on "33". Doesn't affect the performance in any way.

 

[Sanc]

Blue Jeans cables are cheap and get great reviews for their price. SignalCable also gets some great reviews, bit more pricey than Blue Jeans but not drastically more.

 

[myHIFI]

Thorens TD-125mk2 with Rabco Tonearm...

Hello group,
I would like to join the group and upload a pic of my Thorens TD-125mk2 with Rabco Tonearm...
how do i join and upload a pic from my pc?
Thanks
Sonny
my id: myHIFI

 

[mech986]

Excellent, many thanks for replies. I appreciate.

Mech986 - any chance you could give me tips what cables to purchase? Not too expensive though.

jed69 - the sound is like when too pieces of metal and/or plastic are in contact with each other. It only lasts for a very short moment when putting on "33". Doesn't affect the performance in any way.

Blue Jeans cables are cheap and get great reviews for their price. SignalCable also gets some great reviews, bit more pricey than Blue Jeans but not drastically more.

I would agree with these. Also, I like the Mogami Quad cable that is used for interconnects but I don't remember what the capacitance values are like. But since you only need 6 feet or less, it isn't very expensive nor difficult, plus it comes in colors IIRC. Canare also make cables like this too. They are usually used for microphone cables but they work well for interconnects, and you can buy bulk cable and make up what you like.

 

[jed69]

Have you cleaned and oiled the bearing yet? That could be it but I'm not sure; I've not experienced anything like that; and you're sure that's where the noise is coming from?

Excellent, many thanks for replies. I appreciate.

Mech986 - any chance you could give me tips what cables to purchase? Not too expensive though.

jed69 - the sound is like when too pieces of metal and/or plastic are in contact with each other. It only lasts for a very short moment when putting on "33". Doesn't affect the performance in any way.

 

[Barncats]

myHIFI,

I had the same confusion when the group first formed. Go to Quick Links in the top menu and select Social Groups, then choose Thorens Group. Come on in!

Bruce
(TD160, TD125 MkII, Well Tempered Classic, Kyocera PL-701, Elac/Miracord 40A)

 

[80daytripper]

Have you cleaned and oiled the bearing yet? That could be it but I'm not sure; I've not experienced anything like that; and you're sure that's where the noise is coming from?

Yes it has been cleaned. Not oiled it yet.

I noticed the sound is actually coming from the belt, when it drops a little bit deeper when turning on "33" - it hits the metal "arm". It then moves back to its usual place and the noise stops. Tried to raise the belt higher, but it still does the same. Thr same also happens when I turn off 33. Not sure what to do and if this the way it should be? Only happens with both platters at their correct place.

Cheers again mech!

 

[mech986]

Yes it has been cleaned. Not oiled it yet.

I noticed the sound is actually coming from the belt, when it drops a little bit deeper when turning on "33" - it hits the metal "arm". It then moves back to its usual place and the noise stops. Tried to raise the belt higher, but it still does the same. Thr same also happens when I turn off 33. Not sure what to do and if this the way it should be? Only happens with both platters at their correct place.

Cheers again mech!

Your welcome!

The metal arm is for changing speeds, so sometimes if the belt is riding in the correct center of its speed pulley, then the arm can be bent down or up slightly to clear the belt. If the belt is riding a bit off from the proper position, the suspension may need to be adjusted so the platter is lower or higher (but at the proper bounce rate), or the azimuth for the motor and shaft needs adjustment.

 

[Wes_in_VA]

Just got my first Thorens today: a TD 160 from ebay. I just couldn't resist.
The pic is from the ebay listing. I'm at work today but tomorrow I'll spend some time assessing it. I know I need a headshell but the the rest of it looks pretty good. There's a broken arm rest, but that's no big deal.
I'll planning a full rebuild of this: I'll make a new bottom board right away, clean up the bearings, probably replace the springs, and I'm working on a trade for an SME arm for it.

 

[80daytripper]

Your welcome!

The metal arm is for changing speeds, so sometimes if the belt is riding in the correct center of its speed pulley, then the arm can be bent down or up slightly to clear the belt. If the belt is riding a bit off from the proper position, the suspension may need to be adjusted so the platter is lower or higher (but at the proper bounce rate), or the azimuth for the motor and shaft needs adjustment.

Can you confirm what is the correct place for the belt in the pulley, should it be running in the most thick part?
Yes I know how the arm works.

Pic to show my belt/pulley:

 

[Divotdog]

It’s kind of hard to tell from that pic, but yes the belt should be running on the thickest part of the 33 part of the pulley.

 

[mech986]

Just got my first Thorens today: a TD 160 from ebay. I just couldn't resist.
The pic is from the ebay listing. I'm at work today but tomorrow I'll spend some time assessing it. I know I need a headshell but the the rest of it looks pretty good. There's a broken arm rest, but that's no big deal.
I'll planning a full rebuild of this: I'll make a new bottom board right away, clean up the bearings, probably replace the springs, and I'm working on a trade for an SME arm for it.

Nice looking TD160 - I hadn't seen the armrest snapped off like that before. Is the tonearm discolored or tarnished, doesn't look like the nice silvery aluminum it should be. Some folks advocate using a sleeve of heatshrink shrunk onto the tube for additional damping - adds mass though, which may or may not be what you want depending on cartridge.

Can you confirm what is the correct place for the belt in the pulley, should it be running in the most thick part?
Yes I know how the arm works.

It that was at rest with the platter then taken off, it does look like its in the proper place - do you have a pic with the platter inverted to show its position in operation? Also, is the belt hitting the bottom or top of the speed change arm?
Pic to show my belt/pulley: