Invidiosulus
Well-Known Member
I’m using a crossover with a .25mH coil on the mids and it sounds great.
I’m confused by this. I thought the wire from the #3 tap goes to the negative of the mid in a B-2 crossover. Are you saying to change that so #3 tap goes to positive of the PRV?If you modify your B2 network, be sure you heed the polarity change of the midrange connection.
Just follow my B2 schematic I posted and pay attention to the connections to the drivers.I’m confused by this. I thought the wire from the #3 tap goes to the negative of the mid in a B-2 crossover. Are you saying to change that so #3 tap goes to positive of the PRV?
Not sure how much the autoformer affects the phase. For some reason, I lack the curiousity going on with it and just use it.Each inductor or capacitor shifts the phase 90 degrees,
The autoformer I think is 30 degrees?
Speaking of bass enclosures… if anyone ever ports an early heritage LaScala (mine are circa 1974, not too familiar with other versions), you will definitely want to go the "whole 9 yards" and use an active EQ with high pass filter and EQ boost @ 40Hz. This will bring out the best in the port modification. Below is the circuit I made based on old info from forum threads;
If you can breadboard a circuit, it has minimal parts. Any +/- 9 ~ 15VDC power supply will operate it.
View attachment 2805974
Electrical Frequency Response (Simulated)
View attachment 2805976

That looks like a great option.I found one of these on eBay that I am going to modify into the 40Hz EQ/infra-sonic filter for a ported LaScala. It was cheap; $25. You can't buy a transformer and enclosure for that. Anyway, my thought is to send it to members who have ported their LaScala's to see if they want to make the most of the port mod. I'll document the phono EQ mod, if anyone wants to tackle it themselves.
View attachment 2815815
About the same skill level.That looks like a great option.
If you get a guide worked up I’ll build one.
It can’t be any harder than modding guitar pedals.
Just out of curiosity, are you suggesting this schematic if using the K55 (without the .25mH choke) as a standard B-2 crossover?Just follow my B2 schematic I posted and pay attention to the connections to the drivers.
No. Only for the D2200Ph.Just out of curiosity, are you suggesting this schematic if using the K55 (without the .25mH choke) as a standard B-2 crossover?
Thanks.No. Only for the D2200Ph.
If you modify your B2 network, be sure you heed the polarity change of the midrange connection.
Cornwall 1What speaker is the B2 for? A Cornscala?
yeah, I was going to start off with a B-2, but after listening to a converted B xover(from an old E); I'm putting together something very similiar to a B-2 in form; but with a 68uf cap parallel to the woofer, using either 6uf or 7uf cap to the autoformer, most likely 6uf to not push the PRV too low and possibly effect it's performance on it's higher end. And then use a 4uf cap on the tweeter (I'll be using a DE-10 or most likely the 120 in a smahl lense since they can cross lower than a k-77. As far as the inductor for the mid I've got .500mh and .245mh to try out....Bob Crites initially suggested such during his Cornscala 2 experiments.
my question about the inductor for the mid driver and crossover as a whole, is regarding the DCR instead of millihenry value.....I've read so much about improving these earlier heritage models that it all blurs together sometimes, but I wanna say if using a B or classic Klipsch xover with modifications to taste, of course, that one should use an inductor with DCR values around 0.3 ohms??? The reason I'm curious is because I looked at my air cores last night and parts express sent me my ,245mH inductors with a thicker winding, like damn 14guage.... and Rdc of 0.11ohms? Anyone with more experience know how that's going to effect the results? I didn't notice until I was going to A/B the different inductors last night and I'd hate to count out the .245 like what was suggested to me earlier in this thread.
Thankfully, my new listening chair arrived last night so I got distracted and avoided all tweaking frustrations putting it together. FWIW, it may not be a name brand Henry Miller Eames chair, and definitely not last for decades, but I've wanted one of them ever since my only other audiophile friend from college inherited a 1st series original and forced me to sit in it as I was totally ignorant....yeah, it may....or is definitely such a cliche to have one, but the day my franken cornscalas played music the 1st time, I somehow won an open box Ebay auction that I had forgotten about as I just placed the initial bid and figured it was impossible I'd win. Much like me almost randomly buying the PRV driver in the 1st place and it somehow impossibly ended up interchangeable with my K55 driver....and I have the dual phase plug variant that's desired by most. I myself am thrilled. I may sell my K55s while they are deemed valuable now. I understand keeping official klipsch parts for reversions/potential resales etc. I could care less. Maybe if it involved selling some heresies down the road, but I'll never sell these speakers.
Sorry for the long post, but lastly, can anyone share some quick links of comparison measurements between the official drivers in the top hat of the La Scala vs the PRV and zxpc horn with B&C 120 with Smahl? I've tried to search for a friend, I know they are better....but in the vein of this thread, my friend believes it's too good to be true. Even with the simplification of a dramatically larger horn and a 2inch vs 1 inch driver that inherently should produce 4 times less distortion , both harmonic and intermodulation variety, all things equal.
I wonder how long PRVs pricing will remain at such a bargain (zxpc, too)....heck I was considering laser printing to forking up for a joseph crowe designed horn at one point. It's an awesome relevation that options exist for those who want such large quality speakers. I thought I'd never be able to afford a set until the age wherein I couldn't hear well anymore. Much less, build something better than stock by myself. It's one thing to repair gear, but building speakers of this quality, regardless if they are even clones or not, on my 1st attempt isn't supposed to be possible without voodoo from selling your soul. Between the physics, woodworking, luck, and xover voodoo...I feel like I've accidentally made a work of art. But yeah, I need to find links of measurements, as I'd like to build a set for a couple people who can't buy Klipsch off the shelf (or their wives won't let em) and need to save measurements to help decide on my final xover and to just show them that they can own better speakers and give them a project they can build with their sons. Even if measurements were worse, nothing rivals the pride of a large project, but I can push 2 people over the ledge into big horn speakers, by showing them on paper. Unfortunately, that's needed these days since there aren't any stores to even listen to new cornwalls, belles, K-horns, etc.