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Troubleshooting CD Players

dr*audio said:
IC203 pin 3 7V
IC202 Pin 12 5V
Look on the schematic at the power supply section and test all the voltages.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your help!

At IC203/Pin 3 - I have 4.92V (if I'm reading the schematic properly, I think this should be 5V, not 7V)
At IC202/Pin 12 - I have 4.93V

I poked around a bit in the power area and didn't find anything out of order, though at IC201/Pin1, I measure 46.8V where the schematic seems to say it should be 4.6V.

Did you see my observations above where the lens pops up and sled moves to the outermost position?
 
beels said:
Thank you for your help!

At IC203/Pin 3 - I have 4.92V (if I'm reading the schematic properly, I think this should be 5V, not 7V)
At IC202/Pin 12 - I have 4.93V

I poked around a bit in the power area and didn't find anything out of order, though at IC201/Pin1, I measure 46.8V where the schematic seems to say it should be 4.6V.

Did you see my observations above where the lens pops up and sled moves to the outermost position?
Click to expand...
IC204 Pin 3 should be 7 volts, like it says on the schematic! Pin 1 should be 11V. If not, see if you have IC Protectors PS201 and PS202.
1744676569603.png
 
beels said:
Yes, at IC204/Pin 3 I have 7.1V and at IC204/Pin1 I have 11.2 V, per schematic.
Click to expand...
Something is probably blown then. The laser lens should not be in the up position. I'll have another look at the schematic. Did you disconnect the flat flexible cable (FFC) to the mechanism at any point? If so, you may have damaged it on reinserting it.
 
dr*audio said:
Something is probably blown then. The laser lens should not be in the up position. I'll have another look at the schematic. Did you disconnect the flat flexible cable (FFC) to the mechanism at any point? If so, you may have damaged it on reinserting it.
Click to expand...
Yes, both FFCs have been disconnected at some point, the main 18-pin one to the sled board assembly and also the 12-pin one to the laser. Recently I performed a continuity test on each pin of the 12-pin FFC. That said, the reason I thought to test it out is because it does have a bit of a crease in it I didn't like, but it did test out successfully, connector to connector.
 
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beels said:
Yes, both FFCs have been disconnected at some point, the main 18-pin one to the sled board assembly and also the 12-pin one to the laser. Recently I performed a continuity test on each pin of the 12-pin FFC. That said, the reason I thought to test it out is because it does have a bit of a crease in it I didn't like, but it did test out successfully, connector to connector.
Click to expand...
Next part is not going to be easy. You need to measure the voltage on IC102 pins 1 and 2 with respect to power supply ground. You are probably going to have to solder thin FLEXIBLE wires on to the pins. It should be 3V on both. If not, measure the voltage on pins 4 and 5, so you better solder wires on all 4 pins and don't let them short.
1744849425390.png
 
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Oh my. Where is a good place to pick up power supply ground?
On IC102, I wonder if I can take the measurement of pin 1 by masking off the remaining pins with tape and then repeat for pins 2, 4, and 5?

Are you now thinking this is no longer a problem with the limit switch? And not a laser problem?
 
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OK, on IC102, I measured the various pins to pin 14, so:
IC102/pin1 to IC102/pin14 = 1.21V
IC102/pin2 to IC102/pin14 = 1.21V
IC102/pin4 to IC102/pin14 = 1.36V
IC102/pin5 to IC102/pin14 = 1.36V

Looks like none are per spec.
 
beels said:
OK, on IC102, I measured the various pins to pin 14, so:
IC102/pin1 to IC102/pin14 = 1.21V
IC102/pin2 to IC102/pin14 = 1.21V
IC102/pin4 to IC102/pin14 = 1.36V
IC102/pin5 to IC102/pin14 = 1.36V

Looks like none are per spec.
Click to expand...
Measure the voltage on IC102 Pin 22 (should be 7V) and pin 7 (should be 3.3V.)
 
beels said:
IC102/pin22 to IC102/pin14 = .80V
IC102/pin7 to IC102/pin14 = 1.32V
Click to expand...
I thought you had a power supply problem. I had you check for 7V on the main board and it was ok. I think you broke the FFC. Unplug it and look carefully at the contacts on the end. I bet you messed them up.
 
Hmmm. I checked the 12-conductor laser FFC again. Disconnected, visually inspected, end-to-end continuity test for each line of the cable, then for each line tested continuity of one pin at a time with all the pins at the opposite end of the cable, looking for a short between lines. Then I reinstalled the FFC and tested continuity for each pin pair, connector-to-connector. I don't see anything wrong with the FFC.

Is there anything else to try?
 
beels said:
Hmmm. I checked the 12-conductor laser FFC again. Disconnected, visually inspected, end-to-end continuity test for each line of the cable, then for each line tested continuity of one pin at a time with all the pins at the opposite end of the cable, looking for a short between lines. Then I reinstalled the FFC and tested continuity for each pin pair, connector-to-connector. I don't see anything wrong with the FFC.

Is there anything else to try?
Click to expand...
That's the wrong FFC, it's the large one that connects to the Servo board under the mechanism.
 
dr*audio said:
That's the wrong FFC, it's the large one that connects to the Servo board under the mechanism.
Click to expand...
Oh yes, definite damage at one end of the larger 18-pin cable, including more than one severed conductor!
I missed this because this cable looks pretty robust and overall in great condition. The damage was hidden by one of the plastic end protectors. I noticed some intermittency on a few traces during continuity testing, then upon closer inspection underneath the protector, I can clearly see some are severed.

Is there any chance of getting a replacement for this cable?
1-694-003 Pinflex Y0036A

IMG_1983.jpg
 
beels said:
Oh yes, definite damage at one end of the larger 18-pin cable, including more than one severed conductor!
I missed this because this cable looks pretty robust and overall in great condition. The damage was hidden by one of the plastic end protectors. I noticed some intermittency on a few traces during continuity testing, then upon closer inspection underneath the protector, I can clearly see some are severed.

Is there any chance of getting a replacement for this cable?
1-694-003 Pinflex Y0036A

View attachment 3484780
Click to expand...
You're not going to find a replacement except maybe on ebay. What I would do is identify the bad connections, carefully reinstall the cable and solder in wire jumpers from connector to connector.
 
Does the FFC have to be that exact shape? If not, you can order FFC assemblies from AliExpress or other places. I have repaired a VCR with them and they worked fine. There are a lot of variations of these. Pitch, number of conductors, Type A or B (conductors on same side or opposite), length, etc.
 
I'll probably either solder jumpers or perhaps look for a donor unit with the same cable.

Doc, earlier I removed the CD table from the spindle motor axle. Do you know how much offset I need to reinstall this? That is, what should the gap be between the spindle motor and bottom of CD table? Perhaps I just have to trial & error it?
 

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beels said:
I'll probably either solder jumpers or perhaps look for a donor unit with the same cable.

Doc, earlier I removed the CD table from the spindle motor axle. Do you know how much offset I need to reinstall this? That is, what should the gap be between the spindle motor and bottom of CD table? Perhaps I just have to trial & error it?
Click to expand...
Doh! You should have measured the gap at the top of the motor with a feeler gauge. Fear not, there is a solution. You need to take a working CD player and measure the distance from the top of the laser housing to the top of the disc table, and make the one you removed the same; they are all the same distance.
You can't measure from the motor to the bottom of the disc table because the disc tables are not all the same, unless you have another Sony with the same mechanism.
 
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OK, thanks! Looks like approx. 2mm to me.

When I thought I might need a replacement KSS-240A laser, I was looking at Liberty Electronics store. I might buy a spare anyway, just to have. Would the KSS-240A be a drop-in replacement, or would I need some sort of calibration with an oscilloscope?

I wonder what the difference would be between these 3 listings:
1) NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP - model: KSS-240A​
2) Replacement laser SONY KSS240A KSS-240A -SONY, DENON​
3) NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP for SONY CDP-C89 / CDP-C89ES​
 
beels said:
OK, thanks! Looks like approx. 2mm to me.

When I thought I might need a replacement KSS-240A laser, I was looking at Liberty Electronics store. I might buy a spare anyway, just to have. Would the KSS-240A be a drop-in replacement, or would I need some sort of calibration with an oscilloscope?

I wonder what the difference would be between these 3 listings:
1) NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP - model: KSS-240A​
2) Replacement laser SONY KSS240A KSS-240A -SONY, DENON​
3) NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP for SONY CDP-C89 / CDP-C89ES​
Click to expand...
I would only buy from Liberty. I have used theirs and they work. I've had a couple duds and they immediately send a replacement when you contact them. No adjustment should be necessary but if there is a playability issue, then yes. 3 adjustments; Focus Bias, Laser Power and Tracking Balance and I don't remember which pot does what.
 
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