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Tube Power Supplies a Different Approach!

I like the above schematic but I might use a swinging choke which has reduced inductance at high current levels. It was fairly common to use these to obtain better regulation and one choke may be rated at 25 Henries at low load and 5 Henries at full load.

These would be used with a much smaller input capacitor or no input capacitor although in the latter case, there would be some switch transfer noise as conduction passed to different diodes (and some possibility of core saturation that does not happen with a capacitor input).
 
The near death experience the amp puts itself through provides ampdrenaline which really wakes it up.

Hardly,A near death experience with slow turn on rectifiers or with a B+ delay. Decent volume capacitance isolated with diodes creating a low DCR path as I do, is an experience most people have not heard nor would they likely forget. There's nothing like an amplifier that has breath and you'd know it was awake :music:

isnt the purpose of large (wattage) resistors in the power supply side usually to keep the rectifier tube happy?

Sure! But how long do you want to keep it happy and at what cost?


Something about the charging peaks on the 60hz waveform can exceed the current capability of the tube and cause it to prematurely fail because you are trying to charge in a short time? at least thats how it was explained to me.

"Prematurely fail" As I said above, And yes one can get 2-3 decades out of a rectifier, But I don't consider 5 yrs @ a 10% loss or ten yrs premature failure.

After all at 54 yrs of age my personal yrs are numbered so I don't need a rectifier tube lasting 20-30 yrs though I could easily live longer. So just as a muscle car, I prefer the performance of it in contrast to a family sedan. It may not have the long life of a family sedan but then again I won't be bored.


If you go with a large solidstate bridge dont you essentially do away with this limitation up until you start popping fuses from initial surge when you first turn the amp on?

I can tell you I have heard Tube amps with SS rectifiers that I have liked.

Question is I wonder how much more I might have liked them with tube rectifiers.

My own SET amps were tried with some very good HexFred diodes some yrs ago, but I just didn't care for the sound as far as harmonics were concern and if I remember correctly I even thought the GZ37 tube rectifiers dynamics were better! And that's interesting because objectively diodes technically of course can conduct more current. Its as though tube rectifiers like to serve you, they will conduct till they destroy themselves.

There are many ways of dealing with surges.

Slow turn on rectifiers.

CL80's or CL90's

B+ delay relays and so on!

I use circuit breakers instead of fuse because they sound better! I rarely have the breaker kick out. I did have a bridge rectifier in my 4 amp 811 filament circuit go out due to one of the diode legs going into short mode but that's about it! I called my NTE parts supplier in town and had the amp fixed under 2 hrs and that's it in nearly 10 yrs that the amp has been running.

SET12

I see a lot of new faces here that I haven't seen before. I hope to touch on everyone's comments in the order that they are posted and it looks as though that will take some time.

I'd like to say thanks for commenting! And I think the thread is going better than I expected! Of course the topic is very controversial so I expect some very hard opinions just as mine are, never the less its all very interesting!

Thanks

SET12
 
HIts as though tube rectifiers like to serve you, they will conduct till they destroy themselves.



SET12

burn baby burn ! I've had a few viking funerals here in the name of science . . . .

and YES . . .I'm starting to realize scratch built is the way to go :music:
 
isnt the purpose of large (wattage) resistors in the power supply side usually to keep the rectifier tube happy? something about the charging peaks on the 60hz waveform can exceed the current capability of the tube and cause it to prematurely fail because you are trying to charge in a short time? at least thats how it was explained to me.

if you go with a large solidstate bridge dont you essentially do away with this limitation up until you start popping fuses from initial surge when you first turn the amp on?

ke4mcl, As I did reply to you earlier I had forgot to say that I grew up in North Miami, FL. I had two HAM Radio operators at both ends of the block that I lived on. As a kid I was fascinated by short wave. But today its glass audio with transmitting tubes:thmbsp:

I've seen rectifiers arc over. It's pretty but expensive. My 4 year old son was all excited and asked me to do it again!
Yeah I have seen a tube literally start on fire as the glass had cracked. Another friend had one his Tube Acoustat Monitor X amplifiers start on fire while he was away even though it was in standby mode (heaters just on) I owned a pair of these as well. Moral here is "never leave a tube amp on alone"

There's no resistor in the B+ supply of the Eico to eliminate.
That was exactly my point, There's only the power transformers and tube rectifiers DCR for a time constant. That generates dynamics!

I once lived in a side by side duplex that had the two living rooms separated by two garages that were between the both of them. I was listening to some jazz with acoustic bass and my neighbor lady called! She said the pictures were moving on her walls! That was just from my 10 watt amps pictured in my avatar. I use no EQ and no subs! That's with a pair of Klipsch Forte's which today are like a thoroughbred race horse.

I'd opt for a low resistance choke to replace the 100 ohm resistor in the Pilot. If you found something in the 25 ohm range then the B+ voltage swing from quiescent current to max current would be about 0.5v. As a bonus you get less ripple and no chance of frying a non-NOS high zoot rectifier.

Yes, its a nice value 25 ohm DCR to start, but 25 ohms is nearly half the DCR of most power transformers I prefer even less like 5 ohms!

I find most people go with to large of chokes (Henry value and DCR0 IMO , I once use to my self. A 500mh choke is more than up to the task of removing what a 100 ohm resistor does

Ripple tolerance or noise is a personal tolerance. Often times a very quite tube amp is one that sounds like its strangled IMO and and one with some or a bit of noise is the one that makes my toe tap. And I'm not the only one to experience this.

So subjectively one can have the numbers make you happy. But for me its the subjective experience that gets my toes taping. I like understanding reasons and I think I have found a few IMO.

I must be doing the math wrong because on the Pilot schematic it looks like the tube is dissipating over 15w. Is that right?

Yeah, that's what it says but of course its wrong, I seem to remember measuring 10 volts at the cathode on my buddies Pilot. I can't remember if we used 150 ohms but probably. In that case it would be near 9.9 watts of dissipation the RCA RC-30 tube manual says 125 ohm self bias resistor with 72ma of current (both tubes)for an AB1 class amp that would put the cathode at 9.37 volts.



I have two almost-identical GE amplifiers, one that takes the B+ straight from the first cap, and another that I modified to add an additional filter stage with a 50R resistor and 100uF cap. I prefer the latter, it sounds much cleaner. The first one is a bit "faster" / "ballsier", since it sags ~10% less, but eliminating some of that power supply noise, and increasing decoupling, really cleaned things up. So, my preference is somewhat opposite. However, I think if you filter the crap out of everything but B+, and have bias/balance controls, then a single-stage filter can work very well indeed!

Hi jon_s, I guess that's a personal call and what you want for performance criteria there's nothing wrong with that! I couldn't live with a 50R in the path of my amps.

Filtering the crap out of everything in the classical circuits with large volume is not an answer either as many all to well know.

But there is a way it can be done and be as fast and transparent as small caps yet far more authoritative.

A lot has to do with the total system, its the the weakest link issue. Meaning if the rest of the system isn't up to par the less likely one is to hear changes IMO, we all have weak links I think I just have fewer than most. We are always working on them thats why we are all here.

BTW, install an inrush current limiter, or your 5AR4 will arc over the first time it gets power cycled while hot. The slow start doesn't work if it is already warm, and a quick power outage could be a $100 instant loss. My non-vintage 5AR4s arc with 60uF caps when power-cycled.

Yeah , when I first got some new stock 5AR4's (does not meet NOS spec's) I experienced the same issue. No doubt the inrush limiter works, but so does waiting a few minutes as well with an NOS providing there is enough slow turn on delay.

Actualy ,the limiting factor for current is the rectifer tube and the power transformer ,use a toroid and solid state rectification to gain more current and then add all the caps you want .The amp i'm building has a one amp toroid per channel for the B+ and and 1,400 mfd for the first cap , five times the current the output can draw .

Looking at your Bio I see you live in the St.Louis area, my daughter lives in that area as well. I work in the electronics manufacturing industry and work with former radar technicians like yourself as well.

Gordon does have point! IMO, When a given circuit is used and big changes are made one often doesn't get what they expected! I can a test for that! But then again I have seen monstrous results as well, but that depends on design applications that achieve the desired results.

In my early days I fooled around with big caps and such! But I found out fast just how ugly they can sound. I found it was better sounding using groups of small volume caps and later I discovered what diode isolation can do for an amp with monstrous volumes of capacitance and then use premium Poly's to run the gain stages as though the high volume electrolytic's were not even there!

Its really an art that sometimes takes yrs to develop, we all started some where!

As to sand rectifiers I use them but only if I feel I have to! I just prefer the harmonics of a tube rectifiers.

They can and I do use them with high volume capacitance. Its how you put them to work whether the live or they die and how long you want them to live! 20-30yrs or 5-10yrs, I'm not working for them I want them to work for me!

Interesting thread. To me, power supplies are very important, and one of the best places to get "bang for your bucks" from simple mods. The only place I ever use a resistor is for the front end B+ where current demands are small.

I agree totally! The front end is low volume energy transfer and your exactly right!

Funny how I observed in a schematic of the very popular EAR 834P phono stages power supply how one of the caps had a 100k resistor feeding something like 47-100uf cap. I found the 834P was very dark and a bit slow sounding for my taste and I wondered why? The 12AX7 was running on a fraction of a ma. So it might have had a 30-50 volt drop. But I believe it was time constants like that that made it sound that way.

So I think even resistors one should be concern to a certain extant.


Low resistance chokes are the answer for me. Most of my power supply thinking is pretty much off the wall, so I won't go into it.

Again I couldn't agree more, DCR is where its at for dynamic slam.

Until the last few yrs I never thought about DCR or the ACR and how much do I really need!

Try to imagine that 100 ohm resistor, if that's enough.

Now image a 1 henry choke folks at a ripple frequency of 120hz its ACR is equal to 753 ohms!

Now a Dynaco ST70 has a 1H choke but it has a DCR of 60 ohms! more than the power transformer itself! Some may say better regulation, lower noise floor and so on! IMO I find it to restricting for an output stage!

But as Jay pointed out front end current demands are small typically so thats a great place for it! And better than a resistor in this case!

Thanks Jay!
 
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SET12, been following this "100 ohm" thread. So can I just experiment by paralleling it with different value Rs to lower the resistance without removing it altogether, eventually arriving at 0 ohms if all goes well? Say like going from 100 to 75 to 50 etc. Amp is Mag 8802 6v6 with the 100ohm sand resistor after the rect. Has had all Rs and Cs replaced except the sand Rs. Sounds quite good too. Low end is awsome. But it's driving 8ohm bass reflex Sansui spkrs from 4ohm OPTs
 
SET12, been following this "100 ohm" thread. So can I just experiment by paralleling it with different value Rs to lower the resistance without removing it altogether, eventually arriving at 0 ohms if all goes well? Say like going from 100 to 75 to 50 etc. Amp is Mag 8802 6v6 with the 100ohm sand resistor after the rect. Has had all Rs and Cs replaced except the sand Rs. Sounds quite good too. Low end is awsome. But it's driving 8ohm bass reflex Sansui spkrs from 4ohm OPTs

Thank You!

100 ohm thread! I like that! and ain't the truth!

Mag 8802 cool a PP amp I had to look that up!

Yeah, that's an easy one! you can go in steps. But I think it will be less dramatic then just going direct.

The worst thing you'd hear is just noise.

Don't know what kind of rectifier you use but I would use a slow turn on or look at the spec for capacitor input for your rectifier.

Again as far as dynamics that will depend on the rest of your system but by the way you talk of your system you should hear something!

And yes there is a trade off with 8 ohm speakers on 4 ohm taps.

I'm looking forward to your thought's

Cheers

SET12
 
The rect is a 6CA4 and yeah I can just short the R and see what happens. Thought small steps mite be 'safer'? Clipleads here I come.
I put a Dacmagic upsampling dac in for better CD playback with great results and built a little preamp kit for the mag tubeamp that sounds great too. One was at the recent AKfest and the orig builder was who turned me onto it and we collaborated on some stuff. I have other spkrs to use but rite now the Suis are convenient. Some Infinity primus 623 and B&W DM602 also occupy some floor space for my listening pleasure and future tube use. Tubes are fun and rewarding to boot. You can mess with them. Alot more so than SS.
PS: someday I may upgrade the OPTs to 8ohmrs and bigger iron..
 
I feel like I am on audioasylum. :(

I was waiting for this :lurk:

I bet your thinking oh god not another one, now AK is infected :no:

Yes, the man has his hands full! Funny thing my own work has paralleled his but on a different branch. Though there is one common idea low DCR paths which I totally agree with.

I ran into him by chance on ebay had some e-mails but haven't talked to him personally or shared what my approach is, I do consider him a forward thinking designer. Who inspired Herb Reichert, J.C. Morrison, these people are legendary designers IMO.

I say this because I get basically the same results he gets but maybe better!

I also realize it appears a lot of people were upset by him.

I found a lot of his statements correct but certainly everyone has a right to their opinions and I respect that!:yes:

So if this discussion leads to benefits for some that's great!

If not one can just ignore it politely :yes:

As to Herb here's his amp and the story behind it!

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0801/fleshandblood.htm

Here's some the meat and potatoes of his 300B supply as he puts it!

"The power transformer should be rated at least 500mA at 800VCT. An even higher current rating is better (I use 750mA) because I want a small value bleeder resistor at the end of the filter. I like to bleed at least 25%% of the total standing current. This stabilizes and regulates the supply. With the small Black Gate caps, the heavy bleed appears to enhance the clipping characteristic.

We want 480 to 500 volts across the output of the pi filter. The choke should have a DCR of less than 300 ohms. I aim for 10-20 Ohms DCR! This is a big chunk of iron, but it is a very important part of the design. The number of Henrys is less important than the DCR rating. Two to ten Henrys is fine. We are looking for a B+ that is fast and linear, but loosely and naturally regulated. Remember, the reservoir and decoupling capacitors are part of their respective stage's transfer function. This means that they are just as important as the tubes in determining the linearity and character of the amplifier."

As I have said this before to many friends!

"If you want extraordinary performance you must do extraordinary things"

Cheers SET12
 
I'm a little confused (as usual).:D If you short across a resistor in a power supply filter string, won't the B+ rise dramatically (depending on the R value of course), and possibly cause problems with the output tubes (I'm thinking red plates)?:scratch2:
 
:lmao: Are you saying we are all nuts?:D

:lmao: That was good Jay!

I could be wrong, but I think it was in reference to me being like a person over on asylum.

The rect is a 6CA4 and yeah I can just short the R and see what happens. Thought small steps mite be 'safer'? Clipleads here I come.
I put a Dacmagic upsampling dac in for better CD playback with great results and built a little preamp kit for the mag tubeamp that sounds great too. One was at the recent AKfest and the orig builder was who turned me onto it and we collaborated on some stuff. I have other spkrs to use but rite now the Suis are convenient. Some Infinity primus 623 and B&W DM602 also occupy some floor space for my listening pleasure and future tube use. Tubes are fun and rewarding to boot. You can mess with them. Alot more so than SS.
PS: someday I may upgrade the OPTs to 8ohmrs and bigger iron..

That's what I love about tubes, Very rewarding and easy to work on not to mention great sound!

I take it this is a CRCRC type supply not a RCRCRC type which can't take advantage of eliminating the 100R because the supply voltage will climb above the designed value with a cap input instead of the resistor input which keeps the B+ lower!

Yeah, That's another story! I use the Hammond 1642 SE for 10 watts @28lbs each and just love them, talk about breath!

Cheers

SET12
 
SET12, a couple thoughts on inrush "I" prevention. Watchew think?
Leave the R inplace and use a switch to short it out after warmup thereby eliminating any inrush current at turn-on. OR use an =R in place of the sandy and just dial it to zero after warmup. Same result. Good or no?
The 6CA4 says 'max peak input I per plate of 1 amp during initial cycles of hot switching transient should not be exceeded'. Does that sound OK to you?
 
Looking at the schem. it looks to me to be a RCRCRC with the 100ohm in series with the rect. and being the 1st R. So sounds like its a nogo for 100ohm shorting.
PS: the supply Vs are now over V up to 20Vs over the schem #s for some reason unknown to me. they just are, both before and after refurbing. Maybe it's the rect as its out put V is also 20V over, 285 vs 265 on schem. Gonna get another one and see. Also the 100ohm is on spec.
 
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I'm a little confused (as usual).:D If you short across a resistor in a power supply filter string, won't the B+ rise dramatically (depending on the R value of course), and possibly cause problems with the output tubes (I'm thinking red plates)?:scratch2:

Yeah, I was trying to get at that, but my wife kept me away!

That just didn't dawn on me right away! Darn it!!!:tears:

Jay, Your exactly right if that is a resistor input supply, but not a capacitor input typically!

If it is a resistor supply it would likely raise the B+ perhaps 30% not good!

That's one reason why I don't care for resistor or choke input supplies especially cause the power transformer has to have a larger secondary voltage winding thereby increasing the DCR
 
Looking at the schem. it looks to me to be a RCRCRC with the 100ohm in series with the rect. and being the 1st R. So sounds like its a nogo for 100ohm shorting.

Thank god you saw that!

I'm very sorry, I completely forgot about these types of supplies as I never use them but I have seen them in various amplifiers.

Thanks for giving it a shot!

Hopefully somebody with the right supply will try it out!

SET12
 
That's one reason why I don't care for resistor or choke input supplies especially cause the power transformer has to have a larger secondary voltage winding thereby increasing the DCR

Interesting. I also use circuit breakers in place of fuses (probably for the same reasons you do). So, if the need for more wire in the secondary is a concern (a concept that is new to me), what about going transformer-less (at least for the B+). Besides the obvious shock hazard (which could be worked around by an enclosure), what would the draw back of a voltage doubler, or tripler be? SS would be the easy way to do it, but you could also do it with tube diodes (I'm thinking maybe TV damper diodes).:scratch2:
 
Well SET, you said to check it. It's no big deAl tho, just something to mess around with. I like the amp now so have no worr5ies. Next one Ill look for a C inputfilter system. Plenty out there. Twas a fun thought process.
 
Looking at the schem. it looks to me to be a RCRCRC with the 100ohm in series with the rect. and being the 1st R. So sounds like its a nogo for 100ohm shorting.
PS: the supply Vs are now over V up to 20Vs over the schem #s for some reason unknown to me. they just are, both before and after refurbing. Maybe it's the rect as its out put V is also 20V over, 285 vs 265 on schem. Gonna get another one and see. Also the 100ohm is on spec.

Was this with the 285 with the 100R fully bypassed?

If so and thats all it went up I'm surprised! If thats all it went up fully bypassed myself I'd change the bias resistor which I take it is self bias.

The 6V6 after checking the tube maual looks good for 285 and the screens no issue either but the plate dissipation needs to be in check!

I do have operating conditions for the 6V6 in my Sylvania tube manual at 285! no problem!

It you were willing to give it another shot you certainly could leave the resistor in place and use a switch think of the switch as a standby!

Transformer itself might of been the limiting factor that the voltage didn't go any higher.

SET12
 
Interesting. I also use circuit breakers in place of fuses (probably for the same reasons you do). So, if the need for more wire in the secondary is a concern (a concept that is new to me), what about going transformer-less (at least for the B+). Besides the obvious shock hazard (which could be worked around by an enclosure), what would the draw back of a voltage doubler, or tripler be? SS would be the easy way to do it, but you could also do it with tube diodes (I'm thinking maybe TV damper diodes).:scratch2:

I have seen some British tube amp schematics somewhere that did that!

That would be interesting!

And that would be wild! But your right it can be done!

How about the Svetlana 6D22S has a 30 second slow turn on spec and is cheap!

:scratch2:I might think about that for a while! I like the reserves :D

SET12
 
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