What glue for cabinets
- Thread starter Mopardave
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Another vote for Titebond, or most any other PVA glue within reach. If the glue is white or tan and says "wood glue" on the bottle, you'll be fine.
For veneering and complicated glue-ups of pieces that won't be subjected to excess heat and moisture, I'll sometimes go to the trouble of using good old fashioned hide glue as it's very forgiving if you need to reposition a piece after the glue begins to set up.
I've read that one downside of PVA glue is that if you need to reposition a piece after the glue has skimmed, the glue will have lost 30 to 40% of it's shear strength by the time it's cured. No idea if this is actually the case with PVAs these days, but it was certainly conventional wisdom when I was doing antique furniture restoration / reproductions back in the 1980s to the early 2000s.
For veneering and complicated glue-ups of pieces that won't be subjected to excess heat and moisture, I'll sometimes go to the trouble of using good old fashioned hide glue as it's very forgiving if you need to reposition a piece after the glue begins to set up.
I've read that one downside of PVA glue is that if you need to reposition a piece after the glue has skimmed, the glue will have lost 30 to 40% of it's shear strength by the time it's cured. No idea if this is actually the case with PVAs these days, but it was certainly conventional wisdom when I was doing antique furniture restoration / reproductions back in the 1980s to the early 2000s.
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I've gone through hundreds of gallons of titebond, can't stand 3. Unless you intend on leaving it outside, or using on *laminated* mdf in a humid environment, stick to 2. Cleans up much better as well. Working time isn't an issue unless it's really hot and dry out, but that's what your wet rag is for...
I've gone through hundreds of gallons of titebond, can't stand 3. Unless you intend on leaving it outside, or using on *laminated* mdf in a humid environment, stick to 2. Cleans up much better as well. Working time isn't an issue unless it's really hot and dry out, but that's what your wet rag is for...
If it's set up in a closed joint, undoing it without applying a fresh layer of glue is as good as not gluing it IMHO. Titebond is no exception.
The only adhesives I know of that you can undo a joint and restick are liquid nails and the ilk. In fact, you'll often get better adhesion...
homebrew
Super Member
And it's not just for breakfast anymore.
Glue, brad nails and clamps. Anything worth doing, is worth over-doing.
