What McIntosh Gear Are You Using?

[damacman]

There are undoubtedly many MC2105s out there which have never been serviced and work wonderfully. However, given its age it's just prudent to have the unit evaluated by someone able to ensure it meets published specifications.

I was startled by the difference that made with my last one. It cost less than $400 for such at the time.

 

[tubelectron]

No more McIntosh gear for me than my little C712+MC7100 "slimline" set...

For tubes, yes - apart the DIY side - I rely on my 1974 Audio Research SP3A1+D76 "updated" set - powered on below :

But it's me, OK ?

T

 

[charne@sprin]

After a 10 year run, my MA5200 is going from semi-retirement into the closet. Two years ago, replaced the amplifier section of the MA5200 in 2-channel office system with higher power Rotel RB-1582 mk2, retaining the preamp section of the MA5200. (My happy experience with Rotel goes back to mid-1970's, when I had a Rotel amp powering office system at CBS Records.) Today, replaced the MA5200 preamp with a C47, purchased from AC. With the C47, I can use balanced cables for the preamp-amp connection. The MA5200 is fully capable, the best integrated I had enjoyed and my first McIntosh purchase. It now will serve as a back-up, or be on-hand should I need to set up a new 2-channel system. My audio adventure began in 1966 or so with the purchase of a $65.00 Fisher 500-B from the consignment shelf of a local dealer. It has been a most satisfying journey.

 

[damacman]

After a 10 year run, my MA5200 is going from semi-retirement into the closet. Two years ago, replaced the amplifier section of the MA5200 in 2-channel office system with higher power Rotel RB-1582 mk2, retaining the preamp section of the MA5200. (My happy experience with Rotel goes back to mid-1970's, when I had a Rotel amp powering office system at CBS Records.) Today, replaced the MA5200 preamp with a C47, purchased from AC. With the C47, I can use balanced cables for the preamp-amp connection. The MA5200 is fully capable, the best integrated I had enjoyed and my first McIntosh purchase. It now will serve as a back-up, or be on-hand should I need to set up a new 2-channel system. My audio adventure began in 1966 or so with the purchase of a $65.00 Fisher 500-B from the consignment shelf of a local dealer. It has been a most satisfying journey.View attachment 3675862

Nice. The C47 is supposedly a very capable preamp. The Rotel looks like a very capable amplifier from a very reputable company.

 

[charne@sprin]

Nice. The C47 is supposedly a very capable preamp. The Rotel looks like a very capable amplifier from a very reputable company.

When I was ready to move on from the amplifier section of my MA5200, I had neither the deep pocket nor the muscular fortitude to deal with an equivalent McIntosh amplifier of current/very recent vintage. I also do not have the tech skills to maintain older electronic gear, so lean to more recent solid state equipment. I did check out an MC152 but decided if the goal was to step up power, moving from 100 to 150 watts was insufficient. The Rotel doubled amplifier power in the system, was affordable for me at the time, and my previous experience with the brand gave me confidence. It's solid, but not in the weight class of McIntosh amplification! No need for the vendor to ship it on a skid!

 

[nooboy]

Your choice, but the C28 volume pots wear out, and there is no good replacement, many owners will use an external power switch to avoid cycling the volume pot to turn it on/off.

The daily genuflection to the power bar. Good for the lower back, good for the soul.

 

[jibup]

Linn lp12
Marantz saki ruby
Cyrus classic & psx-r
C22v
Mc7200 x 2
Mc275vi x 2
Mr75
Monitor audio pl500ii

 

[OG_erratix]

This stack runs a pair of Mcintosh xr5 and xr3 inverted and stacked on top. I use a primaLuna tube amp for a pair of tannoy reds and marantz mono blocks for 10 inch cervin vegas. It works just fine

 

[Morzh]

MC275 (2005 anniversary edition) plus C22 (bought new 2016);
C22 (vintage) with my EICO HF-22 power amps.

 

[jbjsr]

I have a vintage system in my office which includes a MX117 preamp / tuner in a C12 slant leg cabinet with a MC754 power amplifier.

 

[Pup]

Earliest version, resored MC20 and a pair of consecutive SN MC60's in the music room with Classic Audio T3's.
Near perfect , restored MX110Z with a pair of MC 30's in the big room with "Klipschfields / TCSM Bottoms" . Theater Stage Cinema Monitor bass bins.

 

[Swanny88]

Just picked up a McIntosh system and I’m excited to hear it with my speakers.

C20 Preamplifier
MR 65 Tuner
A pair of MC75 amplifiers

I’m in the process of assessing the benefit of restoring the 75s as they are showing their age. Sounded amazing during the demo

 

[tubelectron]

Just picked up a McIntosh system and I’m excited to hear it with my speakers.

C20 Preamplifier
MR 65 Tuner
A pair of MC75 amplifiers

I’m in the process of accessing the benefit of restoring the 75s as they are showing their age. Sounded amazing during the demo

Take and post pictures, @Swanny88 !

T

 

[Swanny88]

Take and post pictures, @Swanny88 !

T

Will do. I plan to fully restore all units so this will give us some before and after pictures

Really…the 75s need the bulk of the cosmetic work as they are showing their age

 

[SaturationPt]

Will do. I plan to fully restore all units so this will give us some before and after pictures

Really…the 75s need the bulk of the cosmetic work as they are showing their age

I don’t think that McIntosh ever imagined, 60+ years ago, that these would still be around this long, sometimes neglected and left in basements and garages, then cherished by new owners. If they did they probably would have done things a bit differently on the chrome.

How “aged” are they? My 75s were not terrible, but not perfect either, I chose to buy new chassis from an Asian source, IMO nicer than the original in some ways (chromed after forming for example, not in the flat-pattern). The fonts aren’t perfect on the back (specs) but otherwise show-quality. FYI.

 

[Jose Jimenez]

Not listening to any McIntosh now. So sick of the TrackTribe albums I played on Prime Music mixed with excessive one note bass that I decided to find a bottle and put on Mash. Thanks to the Buffalo, the day is saved.

 

[Swanny88]

How “aged” are they? My 75s were not terrible, but not perfect either, I chose to buy new chassis from an Asian source, IMO nicer than the original in some ways (chromed after forming for example, not in the flat-pattern). The fonts aren’t perfect on the back (specs) but otherwise show-quality. FYI.

Funny you mentioned the chrome replacement covers. I ordered a pair yesterday. Did you do your own work shifting the electronics? If so how difficult was it?

Mitch

 

[SaturationPt]

Funny you mentioned the chrome replacement covers. I ordered a pair yesterday. Did you do your own work shifting the electronics? If so how difficult was it?

Mitch

I haven’t completed it yet, … priorities, has had birthdays in my office.

As far as how difficult, “while I’m in there” costs more than anything. A quartet of new Authenticaps for each amp’s power supply, selenium delete, lots of new caps and resistors, repaint the transformer cans and new decals, new power cords and wiring, … hard to decide where to stop.

However, I think that new “turret boards” for the resistors & capacitors is a good place to spend a little time and money as removing, de-soldering and un-wrapping al of the components from those boards, without damaging anything, is the most time-consuming part.

Oh, and finding the correct / original tube sockets took me about a year and a few hamfests. Probably un-necessary.

 

[bond.70]

I own a pair of Mc30 and Mc240, Bogen DB20, Leak Stereo 20, ARC SP8, Copland pre-power 304-501, Thorens TD166, Gyrodec TT, Altec 19 and 14, well I would never change the original chassis of one of these gear with something made in China or Corea or whatever! Turret caps or other things, I had to change the power cords on the Mc30 and I looked for something similar to the original with only two prongs for example, it's ok to restore something that is 50,60 or 70 years old, but in my opinion, unless the object is really rusty and in bad conditions, we have to leave them as original as possible otherwhise we would paint the Colosseum or the Eiffel Tower in bright new colors to cover everithing, that's not restoring in my opinion, for this reason I only buy gears in original conditions, and then I change only the bare minimum!

 

[Swanny88]

I haven’t completed it yet, … priorities, has had birthdays in my office.

As far as how difficult, “while I’m in there” costs more than anything. A quartet of new Authenticaps for each amp’s power supply, selenium delete, lots of new caps and resistors, repaint the transformer cans and new decals, new power cords and wiring, … hard to decide where to stop.

However, I think that new “turret boards” for the resistors & capacitors is a good place to spend a little time and money as removing, de-soldering and un-wrapping al of the components from those boards, without damaging anything, is the most time-consuming part.

Oh, and finding the correct / original tube sockets took me about a year and a few hamfests. Probably un-necessary.

However, I think that new “turret boards” for the resistors & capacitors is a good place to spend a little time and money as removing, de-soldering and un-wrapping al of the components from those boards, without damaging

That’s a great idea about using new turret boards. After contacting McIntosh directly about a few parts for the C20, they don’t appear to stock much for them