Yamaha CA-1010 Major Restoration
- Thread starter Will_Emanuel
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- ca-1010 rebuild recap restoration yamaha
Yamaha often highlight the audio path, though it's not really visible on the hfe schematic, it's better in the hfe service manual if you look at the main circuit board schematic, still a struggle with a black and white copy. Extract below, note the arrow to the right of R331. This path includes TR301, TR308,9,7, TR316,7,8,9,,,
The emitter resistors I like to use Ohmite Audiogold series .
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/res_audiogold-1280116.pdf
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/AG5JR47?qs=XeJtXLiO41S/iglCIk%2Bp/g==
Athanasios
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/res_audiogold-1280116.pdf
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/AG5JR47?qs=XeJtXLiO41S/iglCIk%2Bp/g==
Athanasios
Slide 1-5 Soldering technique needs a little improvement
Slide 9.
Many diodes with lifted legs?
Not sure why you went with MKS(?) for C301,2 (1uf/80V) these appear to be a noise path for +/- rails, ie, not in audio path, a 15cent Nichicon UPW would have been fine. Likewise C321, 322. Expect some ripple on the unregulated supply, how does MKS handle ripply versus UPW?
Slide 9.
Many diodes with lifted legs?
Not sure why you went with MKS(?) for C301,2 (1uf/80V) these appear to be a noise path for +/- rails, ie, not in audio path, a 15cent Nichicon UPW would have been fine. Likewise C321, 322. Expect some ripple on the unregulated supply, how does MKS handle ripply versus UPW?
Just identifying it and what I would use. If you want to use wima films go for it..
No.
Solder blob should be shiny and look a bit like a tear drop. The blobs on the trimmers are close, maybe just a bit too much solder.
C104(220/6.3V) is a polar tantalum on the function board, audio path. Use either MKS2, Nichicon UKL both low noise or UFG if your not greatly concerned by the noise floor.
Try to work out why Yamaha used "that" original part. Yeah sometimes it was basic costs but more often it was about selecting the best part for the job at hand. Ceramic discs have good RF properties, how does MKS2 compare? Seems to be a school of thought that all electrolytic caps under 4.7uf should be replaced with MKS2, even caps used in noise paths, protect circuit, meter drive and... where there will be no improvement to SQ.
But it's your amp/refurb
Mostly just flux, needs some board cleaner, will look mostly ok.
Nude power amp board (elec-caps etc removed). Don't have a close up...
I just use snipping tool on my laptop rather than uploading the entire file. Hi-res comes out high res...
Nude power amp board (elec-caps etc removed). Don't have a close up...
Schematic shows 100uf/6.3V however my notes show 10uf/16V
Serial Number 38xx had 100uf/6.3V while SN 13xxx has 10uf/6.3V
Audio path input to power amp, I'd use audio grade something like Nichicon UKZ, UFG or Elna Silmic II
I didn't check all, did the first 6-7, audio path is shown in the service manual power amp schematic. Also shown at a high level in the block diagram.
I wish...
Yeah, distortion measurement is a good start. Needs a "pure" source/signal generator and equally good (calibrated...) distortion analyzer. Most would simply check distortion at the speaker posts and only investigate further if measurement was out of spec
Truthfully, I don't have any at this time. I'm on a tight budget struggling to save up for a Sansui alpha, and living in a country where such equipment is not dumped on the kerb. Yeah I've seen new units but still looking at $400-600AUD. I've recently purchased a new/higher spec sound card and plan to use freeware, maybe REW? But it's still just a toy, only as good as the sound card.
Bit of a loaded question. I picked up a vintage Electrocompaniet 1a pre for parts and managed to get working (for a while at least). Yeah, interesting sound but at times I thought I was missing something. Think Electrocompaniet were one of the early ones to extol second order harmonics over third etc... I certainly don't have the knowledge to tweak something like a CA-1010 to bring out the more favourable second order or further attenuate the third order, I participate on AK to learn that kind of sh#t, so outside my sphere of influence, so as long as they are 100+dB down...
For basic adjustment of MC stage according to SM. Are you asking what is an acceptable 2nd, 3rd,,, order harmonic?
I didn't see any measurements on the power amps that confirmed this. Also, maybe start a new thread on this. Measure Vdc at left power amp TP1 (to GND) repeat for right channel. Should be less than 100mV, probably bouncing around based on post #65.
Measure Vdc at TR316b/D306 anode, repeat for TR317b/D307 cathode.
Not to be confused with the 1A fuses? I have the Japanese CA-1000III
F401 0.5AT
F402 1AT
F403 1AT
F404 1AT
F405 1AT
F406 1AT
Which fuses were blown, F40x?
OK, fuses for unregulated supply, makes more sense now, different transformer taps selected for class A/Normal by operations switch/relay. Check voltage at red (B+) wire, expect +22V in class A and +55V in normal.