Suggest create a new thread, this one is halfway to cuba. Use a meaningful title, more likely to get the attention of the troubleshooters
Ideas? This title seems to hit the subject dead on.
You are correct with your statement. KEY WORDS "Constructive Criticism"
That is a reverse RIAA board, allows me to feed a line level signal into a phono input to test a phono stage without needing a turntable.
Did you make this or purchase?
I just purchased the one listed by Hagerman
The typical corrosive glue on the larger caps is also present.
The glue... Attracts moisture and dust. The moisture oxidizes what ever metallic metal it comes in contact with. The moisture is also responsible for the conductive aspect. Not corrosive per say. But does promote and enhance oxidation.I'm pretty sure that old glue becomes conductive, not corrosive.
I've never actually measured the pH...Not corrosive per say.
Yes, there is a fair bit of original parts left in the unit. The amp did work before the restoration, and sounds much better after the restoration. In my experience, I’ve never had an amp sound worse after doing the work I’ve done to it.Amazing work. So are there any of the original parts left in it? Did it work prior to and how does sound before and after. Im always worried an amp will lose it orig sound.
Very nice. I have back plate coming that fits right behind back, its one solid square piece. I just need drill and find bindig posts that are short. Parts express has some that I think would work well.The professional solution, these were custom 3D printed for the CA-1010:
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Love them. Id be interested in who makes them. The RCA connectors. Im looking into better feet. 2 were missing, I stole from a fraveyard AmpI don't make these or sell them, I can tell you who does.
These can also be made for all the RCA connections:
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Other items:
Isolation Feet
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Rosewood Cabinet:
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I typically stock parts like Semiconductors and some caps, but for large restoration projects like this, I make up a BOM and order everything on the list. Most of the time I don't need to each part in bulk, places like Mouser and Digikey typically allow you to buy in multiples of one. Of course if you're planning on doing multiple restorations you can save money by buying in bulk. Unfortunately the spreadsheet I have for this is incomplete and may not match the list I included throughout this thread. I'd recommend following Super Noob's bill of materials and cross reference with the lists I provided in this thread. Many of the parts are identical, with the big changes in components being in the amplifier section. If I remember correctly, the power supply, tone board, and most of the preamp have the exact same components with the exception of a few extra caps on the preamp board in the 2010 that aren't populated in the 1010 board. Hopefully this helps you out!Great job! I just came into possession of the same amp (with the separate tuner (610)). Someone throwing it out by the side of the road in my neighborhood. I have a reasonable electronics background, nothing profound and never anything this large, but eager to take on the project. So I have a quick question about sourcing the replacement caps and Tr's. So do you order them as needed? or did go through the schematic and buy the entire list in bulk? And do you have a spreadsheet of the parts like your inspiration provided? https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-yamaha-ca-2010.899468/ . Thanks!