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Yamaha CR-1020 restoration

esteboune

esteboune

BleuBlancRouge
Hello Folks,

I have a beautiful CR-1020 that needs some attention.
It is in overall good working condition.

However, there is a couple of minor issues:

  • the lights are gone
  • some pots are scratchy and need a good cleaning
  • the wooden cabinet requires some love
  • I recently became addicted to vintage gear restoration
Considering the 4 points above I decided to put the CR-1020 on my bench


IMG_5597.jpg

Since it is here I am planning to recap the power boards, and check if the Service Bulletin 07-81 has been addressed.

I will go with the flow and maybe work on the amp section and tone control...

I am sure that at some point I will require your expertise, hence I am creating this thread!
 
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Agreed, I used his bulbs on my 1020.

I’ll watch your post with interest. My 1020 is slumbering away for now.
 
esteboune said:
POWER SUPPLY C. BOARD-1 (NA 06899-1)

View attachment 2038648

View attachment 2038650


On top of all the caps, is there anything else to change?
Components that are prone to failure?
Click to expand...
Relay, zener, and add heatsinking or off-mounting the two power pass transistors. This is IMPERATIVE. They get so hot I've seen them unsolder themselves.

There are fusable resistors on the main cap board that should be changed.
Main cap solution: I use these, chop off the middle leads, and they fit right in and are stable in the specific mount. You should hot glue them in. But other than that, no drilling, no mess.

Also there is no service bulletin for the 1020? Only the 2020.
 
Ok I think I am done with the first board. (except some glue still present)





I desoldered:

29 e-caps
2 transistors
1 relay
2 Zeners

Am I good with this one?!

thanks
 
Last edited:
ivandezande said:
There are fusable resistors on the main cap board that should be changed.
Main cap solution: I use these, chop off the middle leads, and they fit right in and are stable in the specific mount. You should hot glue them in. But other than that, no drilling, no mess.

.
Click to expand...

Great thanks, i was actually wondering what to use for filter cap !
 
avionic said:
That is because the CR-1020 schematic is wrong !!!!.. It details the schematic for a CR-2020 E-Cap circuit board.... The E-cap diagram above is incorrect as well for a CR-1020 ... But correct for a CR-2020.
Click to expand...
that's very clear

thanks a lot.
 
Oh no...

It seems that my predecessor applied super glue on the knobs...
I manage to remove most of them except for one.

I am afraid to damage the selector switch.

Even my little assistant is helpless!

 
Might try heating up the paddle with a heat gun. Make sure the set screw is loosened or removed.
 
This is really annoying...

I tried using a heat gun, not moving.
I tried injecting solvent, not moving.


If I continue, I will damage something.

It seems I won't be removing the faceplate...
 
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