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Yamaha CR-1020 restoration

The battle of the glued knob:


I won:


faceplate off


It seems I will not be able to remove the switch without completely removing the tone control board


.:thumbsdown:
 
I manage to remove the switch

I am not sure I will be ever able to put it back!


this is a first time for me...
 
the white plastic gear is damaged.
I can't fix it.

i need to find a new switch or a new tone control board.

I may have a lead on a CR-800 (junk), do you know if I can take the selector switch from it?
 
The CR 800 paddle is probably slightly smaller, so you could switch it with the speaker selector and make it less noticeable. Maybe you could also use the record output switch in place of the input switch and just put something else there to hold a paddle.
 
I need to put this project on hold until I find a input selector switch or the entire tune control board.
(there is one right now on ebay, thanks @avionic, however, the seller does not ship to my location!)

I will be back!
 
jayfree said:
The CR 800 paddle is probably slightly smaller, so you could switch it with the speaker selector and make it less noticeable. Maybe you could also use the record output switch in place of the input switch and just put something else there to hold a paddle.
Click to expand...
Hi @jayfree , i did as you said.

I used the record output switch in place of the input switch.

Tested, all good!
i know it is not perfect, but i do not use tape recorder anyway.

 
esteboune said:
the tuner string was a nightmare to put back together!!!
Click to expand...
I am glad my suggestion could help you get up and running. The tuner string is the one thing I have managed to not have to deal with, except maybe partially removing it to some maintenance on something else. It's too bad you can't get some spare boards shipped to wherever you live, but if you ever need a relay or capacitor board for the power supply, I have the files to have them produced, you can have them, or the KiCad projects if you want.
 
Gents,

I am not sure, but I think a read somewhere that using LED was not advisable on the CR-1020.

Shall i stick with the 12V lamps?

thanks!

in my to-do list for this CR-1020

  • Bias adjustment, DC offset
  • Lamps replacement
  • Restoration of the wooden box
  • Cleaning faceplate and knobs
  • Final assembly
getting there!
 
esteboune said:
This is really annoying...

I tried using a heat gun, not moving.
I tried injecting solvent, not moving.


If I continue, I will damage something.

It seems I won't be removing the faceplate...
Click to expand...
Did you get the knob off, did not read the whole thread? I had one just recently like this and it was a gulled aluminum shaft on a potentiometer with set screw(s), knob broke when it came off.

Edit - little behind.
 
Interesting, I am restoring a 1020 now and no joy with the selector switch as well. Glad I read this thread as I was getting ready to up the horsepower on removal. I tried deoxit, alcohol, acetone, penetrating oil and a heat gun. Looks like all the daughter boards can be removed with out taking off the face. So I won’t try anymore to remove. All the others came off easily once the set screw was removed. Did the factory glue these on?
 
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